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Whats best method for getting to the temp switch on a 93 2.3?
I may have a bad temp switch on my 93 Ranger 2.3. The needle doesn't seem to move even after idling for about 15-20 minutes. Also the fuel gauge doesn't move either. I just did some work on the truck because it was down for awhile because of a busted steering gear. It's all fixed. I also changed the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, hoses, heater core, fuel pump/sending unit. The fuel gauge wasn't working for years but I attributed it to a non exsistent float. Well it still doesn't work either. I have the gauge cluster with the tach. So I don't know if the gauges share a fuse together or just bad sending units. I was going to change the temp sending unit at least to keep an eye on the temp but it's not very easily accessible. I saw a video where someone changed it underneath, but it looks like it might be hard with the oil filter in the way. What's the best way to get at it? Any hints or tricks to get at it easier?
It sucks but a socket and swivel helps. Add extensions and reach through the wheelwell is my method a couple months ago on my '91 2.3l. Now the oil pressure send is worse. Hope it never leaks but they are known as a problem. Plan on doing it when/if transmission is ever out. Even then it sux too. Sorry if I sound peeved. I am in middle of replacing a hyd throwout only to find rearmain seal, oil pan gasket are leaking like ExxonMobil Valdez. Nothing is easy on these trucks except maybe the driveshaft. I had to use angle grinder to cut one of the u-joints out. Destroyed my 11mm impact socket trying to beat the end cups out. Crazy tight.
My first thought would be to pull the cluster and check for bad solder joints going to the gauges.
I haven’t had a Ranger since ‘07 (A ‘94 with an Exploder tach cluster swap), but I doubt two more decades of age is helpful to those electronic components.
Last edited by Johnny Paycheck; Today at 10:24 AM.
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