I have searched through pages and have not found an exact match. Here are the symptoms;
Truck ran flawless for the time I have owned (7-8 months) F150 1992 4.9 5 speed manual.
A few weeks ago, I went to start it, and it just cranked with no attempt to fire.
The very next day, started right up without issues. I do not drive it a lot, it sat for 8-12 days before this symptom.
Since the no start, had no issues until this last Sunday. Went to do a dump run, and it just cranked. I checked the fuel,
over 3/4 tank and back tank at 1/2. Fuel pump kicks in. To shorten up the troubleshooting, shot some starting fluid to determine
fuel starvation. Not even an attempt to fire. Pulled spark plugs, tested each, no spark. I checked the coil for continuity, per directions it was within the Ohms
Happen to have a Ford with same ICM, so swapped them to see, nothing changed. No spark from coil to Dizzy. Popped cap off dizzy, it turns with cranking it over. A bit dusty, but no
obvious carbon issues or wetness. Ive had a few shade tree mechanics tell me its the ECM. Is there a way to check the ECM? My thoughts are the Dizzy is defunk, the PIP portion? I hate buying new parts, they
seem to be complete trash, or a band-aid. Not sure if Ford even makes this Dizzy. I was told stethoscope can be used to check this? I do have access to one.
I have changed one Dizzy in my life, as I shy away from electronics. Looking for suggestions before I send it to the shop.
I did find an article with a seven (7) step troubleshooting check for this truck, seems Ive exhausted the 7 steps.
Appreciate any help you can throw my way!

 

Pull the computer and look for leaking capacitors. The ones that look like little cans. It's probably time to replace them.

 

Can Capacitors be replaced or am I looking at replacing the ECM?
Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Unplug the spout. Try starting the truck. Is there spark now?

 

They are replaceable.

There are other places to get them, but Amazon has a kit -
You won't use all of these. Mine had two, but I've heard some ECUs have three. Replace all of them. Find someone who can solder well and it's a 20 minute job. Whether they are leaking or not, and if they haven't been replaced already, just do it. They are over 30 years old and will not last forever. A lot of weird problems are attributable to these capacitors failing.

 

bump

 

Thank you for the capacitor info with Amazon, I will give it a look.

 

Unplugged the SPOUT, no change, no spark

 

Ill look, thanks

 

Per Step #7: did the LED tester lamp flash when cranking the engine over?

TEST 7: Testing The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal

 

So I initially did this, the LED light came on with key to accessory. Went out when cranked and did not come back on until back to accessory. I just went back out to retrace all the steps. On this test, I cranked it and to my surprise it fired up but loaded up and died. Turned it over, started again, runs terrible and wont stay running without giving it gas. So I am beyond stumped!

 

That is confusing since you would turn the key back towards you to get to the accessory position from off. The key positions are accy, off, run and start.

 

Mine is off, to idiot lights to start. So I misspoke, I did not go counterclockwise. But, I believe the majority of readers will know where I was going with this. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

With the truck magically firing, I did not resort to pull the EEC. I was hoping someone could give their knowledge on why it suddenly started sparking once I probes the 6 wire on the ICM. Granted, it does not run like it did before going down with the spark issue. Makes me think its the coil or Dizzy. I have read so many "No spark" forum chats, some had success with swapping the EEC, and others spent upwards of $350 to no avail. If I get no feedback on what someone suspects with my new issue, I will pull the EEC and open it up. Thanks again for your input.

 

So nothing happens or you cannot turn the key backwards from OFF? When you Turn the key forward to START and let go it does not spring back to “idiot lights” or “ACCY”. That position is RUN. We are not there to see what you are doing and when explaining testing means you need to have the correct nomenclature.

The coil respond to a signal to fire. Rla pointed you to a test for the PIP sensor inside the distributor. Are you now getting a flashing light when cranking?