Hello all,

As a lot of you know I bought my truck about 2 years ago and it died shortly after. It has taken a long time but I got the injectors rebuilt and now it runs great but I have some other issues that I have been reading about but would like a little help with if y'all don't mind.

1. Parking brake. Mine has the drive line unit and I know that AllStateGear.com sells the whole assembly (which is probably what I will do) but is this clearly aftermarket part any better than the others I see online for $500-600?
2. I still can't get the blower motor to work on anything other than high regardless of mode. I replaced the resister pack (E9TZ19A706A from Ford) and even the connector because there was some corrosion and a loose pin (1U2Z14S411NB from Ford) but still nothing. Seems unlikely that the dash switch is bad but what do I know?
3. The heater core is bypassed for some unknown reason. Should I try and back-flush it and put it back online or just assume that it's leaking and replace it? I plan to flush the engine coolant soon anyway.
4. Speaking of engine coolant...wow...a lot of different information. I know Motorcraft is the way to go for parts, especially sensors, but I just can't bring myself to pay their high prices for coolant. And their diesel additive. I mean their coolant says right on the jug "conventional coolant" but then there's the argument about whether or not the additive is even necessary so I am lost. Orange, green, gold, so much conflicting info out there.
5. Speaking of fluids...truck has 143k miles and unknown history. Should I just go ahead and replace all the fluids (coolant, trans, brake, rear diff) or nah?
6. Fuel tanks. My front one has a hole in the bottom so I haven't used it and the rear one always reads super high. I was just going to replace both tanks and sending units but I am having trouble finding replacements.
7. The exhaust is still a work in progress. I don't have the stuff to modify the transmission and firewall seam to replace the stock downpipe. I guess I'll just leave it and hook back up to the factory muffler when I can find a shop that will do it.
8. Clutch pedal position switch doesn't work. I have it bypassed now but would like it to function. The ball joint is tight with no play and the plastic bushing is still there so I don't think I need to do the upgrade everyone talks about...I assume it's the actual switch but I can't seem to find the replacement.

Sorry for the stupid questions, I'm no mechanic, but I've searched here extensively and can't find the answers to these. Thank you guys for all the help so far, I couldn't have done it without you!

 

1. Mine is not like that so I do not have a good reference for that.

2. You can check for power to the resistor to see if it is getting power at the different switch positions. If not, either the switch or wiring is suspect.

3. I would probably give it a go and see what happens. But be prepared for it to leak

4. It needs an appropriate amount of SCA. I use fleet charge as it comes ready to go with no thinking. I think the last batch came from rural king or tractor supply.

5. I think it depends on how well the previous owner cared for it. If you have a fluid preference then feel free to change them. Otherwise I would check them and see how they look. If they are clean, they should be fine for a little while. Just don’t forget about them.

6. Bronco graveyard and lmc should have them. The 40 gallon bronco tank is also an option for the rear.

7. Do you have a hammer, block of wood, and a sawzall? It can be hard work with limited tools, but still doable. That factory down pipe is junk.

8. What is the symptom? With the switch by passed, how well does the clutch work?

there are no stupid questions. We all had to learn as we went and someone helped us. We are glad to pass along the knowledge to someone else.

 

4: I used the fleet charge as well, already having the correct level of sca in the coolant made it convenient.

7: I did my down pipe with a sawzall, hammer, pry bar and a block of wood. Swearing level was moderate to medium high.

 

2. How do I know which wires/pin positions I should be checking and what I'm checking for (for the different switch positions? DC voltage, Ω resistance, etc.?

3. I may just order a new one. It looks like they are not too expensive and from what I can tell the whole dash doesn't have to be removed to replace it.

4. Two votes for fleet charge, good enough for me.

5. That's the issue, I know nothing of it's history. The transmission doesn't even have a dipstick so I don't know how I would check the condition of the trans, diff, or power steering fluid.

6. I have looked on both of those sites and can't find anything for my truck.

7. I do have those...but seems like the general consensus is that the full factory exhaust is perfectly fine for less than 400 hp. and therefore not worth the money/effort to change the downpipe.

8. With the switch bypassed the clutch works great. Before I bypassed it, intermittently it would not crank. I don't have cruise control but would rather have the switch operational for safety reasons.

 

I’m not sure if there’s a difference in f-superduty tanks vs standard Obs tanks. Do you have the means to repair the leaking front tank? I would think the sending units are the same but not sure.

for the Down pipe, I don’t know if I make more power or lowered egts by replacing it. I know I did it with the rest of my exhaust and now make more cool turbo noises. I was going to swear and drink beers that afternoon anyway, why not get more fun truck sounds as well.

 

1. Call Midwest and speak with them also

2. Buy a quality DVOM. Not like my Fluke 88V but get something like $50 range to do some serious testing. Does it only work on HIGH when cabin switch is set to HIGH?

My EVTM is in Hou so I am going to guess, four wire to the resistor pack is one for each cabin switch position.

Check ALL fuses for proper amperage rating too!!

3. Just replace the core, beyond easy and inexpensive. Mine took a **** shortly after a serious flush.

4. I too use Fleet Charge, that stuff with SCAs preloaded. TSC is where I acquired. Consider a coolant filter too. You could do green or gold, then have to charge it.

5. Yes, replace all fluids. You need to baseline it. Easier to fill the ZF from the cab, most of us all run 5qts.

6. Spectra makes good tanks, so the 'shower head' pickup when in there. Maybe you can squeeze in a 38gal rear tank?

7. I have all the crap to mod the firewall, we can put my Portapower to work! EGTs drop, spool time drops, you gain about 20rwhp too.

It is way easier than you think and that stock one is a complete POS.

8. You would just have to purchase a new NSS. I bypassed mine, pointless as just me drives this truck.

 

1. Who is Midwest?

2. I have a quality multi-meter, my background is DC electrical. I just don't know what to test for since I don't know what those circuits are supposed to be doing when working correctly. To clarify, in all modes (vent, a/c, max a/c, heat, defrost) the blower motor only spins when the dash switch is on HIGH. I do not know if it is actually blowing at high speed (but it does sound like it is). The 3 other speeds the fan stops completely. I have also replaced the blower motor. I did find the wiring diagram but that doesn't tell me what they are supposed to be doing.

6. It looks like they have the tanks I need! Was just planning to stay with stock sizes. I carry a 50 gallon transfer tank on the flatbed and this is mainly a farm truck so I don't need the range of a 38 gallon tank. They also sell the shower heads but not the sending units. Still hunting for those.

8. I figured but I can't seem to find it anywhere (not one that looks like mine anyway).

 

Ohm out switch to resistor pack wires
if thats ok then switch might be bad and that can be ohmed out as well

When the fan motor blows weak from worn bearings/brushes/debris, it uses more amps and fries the resistor pack on low speeds

 

Anyway to verify the blower resistor is good? New parts doesn’t always = good parts.

 

Yes, this. Verify power to the Fing thing as it has four pins. 12V, neg ground, ACV.

I could diag it in five minutes

 

No idea, I don't even know what the resistor does. I did try two of them though so I doubt both were bad out of the box. Ford spec has two listed for my truck and as far as I can tell the only difference is the cutoff temperature, which one is 250 and one is 300. Seems like it has something to do with the heater core control for heat cycles more than fan speed based on that info.

 

It is in the HVAC box to keep cool as it is a resistor, it becomes hot hence the air flow across it.

My guess is the cabin switch is crap, but without checking voltage to get underhood harness all we can do is speculate

 

How does that keep it cool when the heat is blowing?

 

cabin air or outside air, is sucked into the blower then across the resistor and then the air is heated or cooled

 

Gotcha, that makes sense. I wonder why these two resistor packs say anything about temperature then.