It's been a long time coming, but I'm finally starting this project.

I have been occupied with building an AC Cobra replica.

Here she is being dropped off for paint.

Since paint will take about 4 months, I figured I could get a significant amount of work done on the truck.

This is what I'm starting with.

Doesn't look too bad in the picture, but this was after a pressure washing. It was in sad shape (and still is!)

But I have some good stuff waiting to go in.

This is a full QA1 front suspension. This will eliminate the twin I beam suspension and give it a nice coilover, adjustable suspension.

And the heartbeat of the beast.

An FE that started as a 390. Built by Blair Patrick in Tennessee, it is now a 445 and dynos at 526hp and 600tq

I started pulling things apart last night and this is where I'm at.

It's got some major issues. Bed is rusted out. Both doors have rust and dents and the interior is garbage. But if you haven't guessed already, this is not a restoration. I'm making this truck how I want it to be. Great handling, comfortable and reliable with a great kick.

Some of the things not pictured that I have already is, a new wiring harness, a Dakota Digital dash, new dash bezel. I plan on new bucket seats, but haven't decided which yet.

The original plan was to add power steering and power brakes, but that is now a distant memory (check the market for my ad selling the power steering conversion, it'll save you a ton).

Wish me luck, it's been a long time since I've dug into an old truck like this.

 

Looks like a fun project. Similar to mine. You are going to have to box the old frame in to handle the HP/torque. Which If I recall the QA1 may require it. Another thing you may be over looking is the rear axle. Check your splines on the axle. If 28 spline it will not handle the HP. I had that problem and upgraded to a 35 spline w/wavetrac carrier.

Once you get it stripped down, media bast it to see how bad it actually is. Once blasted wash it down with metal prep to protect the bare steel. That what I've done, then shoot epoxy primer to seal. (PPG DP 90) This stuff is expensive $700/gal kit. I've used it for decades on equipment stored outside in the elements. Even without a top coat this has prevented any corrosion for over 20 yrs of exposure to the elements. Goes on thin 1.5-2.0 mil, has a long re-coat window. Can spray a top coat up to 5 days without requiring sanding/scuffing.

Most of these body parts are being reproduced, just takes $$$. I have bed repairs to do to mine.

Good luck,

Will follow your progress.

 

Thanks.

Yes, we have similar builds going on, which is why I started following your build. I'll need ideas.


Got a few more parts off today. Having to cut a lot of these rusty old bolts, which is just a tedious time suck.

 

Bag and tag parts as they come off. Also take plenty of pictures to help you remember where every things go. Saves a lot of time in the long run. I made a decision to replace all of the pal nuts and bolts due to corrosion, though a lot were in good shape. Areas that will see water I went with stainless pal nuts.

I got lucky on mine I only had to cut 4 bolts off. 3 were on the bed, and 1 on the front finder where the nut broke loose of the clip.

My rad support was in very sad shape ( battery corrosion) and just replaced it. I did repair the inner finder under the battery where it was eaten up

Why did you decide not to add power steering. These heavy trucks need it and the rack & pinion have a quicker ratio which will make it harder yet. With disk brakes power assist is not needed but a convenience.

Dyna 60 should hold up to the HP. The problem is getting the hp to the ground. Wider tires in the future? Convert the leaf springs to 4 link, coil overs for better ride.

 

I've kinda already decided that it's getting all new fasteners. AMK makes a nice kit that I think I'll get.

Had to cut 3 of the 4 bolts on the bumper. Cut 1 off that was on the front valance that goes to the top of the bumper, the clip nut broke and the bolt just spins, very frustrating.

Fortunately, it looks like this truck has never had any frontend damage. Rad support is good, but needs to be cleaned up. Battery area needs some replacement metal.

It will have power steering. Pretty much the same steering rack as a Mustang. That's what QA1 includes with their kit. I still need to get a pump that works with it, but that's not a problem.

I may yank the Dana and put in a 9", not sure yet. Or maybe I can find an IRS that fits these trucks And yes, some much nicer, wider tires and wheels. It's one of the reasons I went with the QA1 kit instead of putting in a crown vic frontend. Wheel and tire choice is very limited with that.

There's a few companies that make rear suspension for these, including QA1. I'll be looking those over in the near future. Gotta spread the cost out so the wife doesn't kill me

 

Next bit of progress.




Passenger side inner fender needs to be replaced.



Bed is off.



The good news is, my body mounts look good.

 

Wow, those cab mounts do look good as well as the cab corners. Since you are doing the QA1 front suspension, what rotors/bolt pattern are you going to be using? Pretty sure that set up uses 5 bolt rotors. Are you looking to change the rear axle to say a 9"? Looks like a great project, good luck and keep the pics coming!

 

Looking good,

Nothing a little sheet metal want fix. Normally when the battery tray is eaten up its run down into something else and eats it up too. My inner finder was not as bad as yours but it ate up the rad support at the bottom mount area, all alone the seam.

Pull the covers off the front mounts and see what's hiding inside.

If you can once you get the cab stripped test the cowl for leaks. I was chasing leaks for a long time on mine before I started the project. Then I found multiple areas that was leaking requiring me to cut the front out for access. In any case plan on resealing with seam sealer/Pour-15.

Tear down is the quick fun part. Putting it back together is where all the time goes.......

 

Ain't that the truth. Teardown looks like you're really moving through the project. Then comes the time to prep the frame and make decisions about what to use and what to modify etc. Then it's like molasses.

 

I wanted to get some opinions on what I should do here.
I ground off some of the crud from around the radiator support holes. They don't look so good. I'm thinking I'll have to cut that out and weld in a new piece with the proper sized hole in it. I also thought about just laying a patch hole piece over top of it and weld that in, but that would raise the support a bit. Anyone dealt with this issue? The other side looks the same.

 

If this is the frame it's been welded on before, just not done cleanly. You have 2 options. 1'st one would be to grind it smooth and then build it backup with weld metal, grind smooth once done. 2'nd option is to cut it out and put a new piece in. This is not a critical heavy load bearing spot. I would just clean it up.

The hole size looks to be pretty close needed for the rstep bushing to fit into. It's a pretty large hole. I'm trying to recall the size on mine 1 1/4"?

The bigger question is why this are needed repair in the first place to cause some one to weld on it. Or is the end result of the battery leaking down the finder to the core support to the frame. If this is the case the core support should be eaten up pretty bad too.

 

Amazingly enough, the core support is ok. Not great, but ok.

After posting last night, I started a search about this problem and I found several pictures that looked similar to mine. I think the moisture just sits under those mounts and causes this problem. Also, in my search, I found that LMC and Bronco Graveyard offer patch pieces for this. Essentially, they are just great big washers in the same gauge as the frame. I'll probably do that, since it looks pretty easy and clean. The hole size I saw posted about varied from 1.25-1.375". Once I order the rubber (or urethane) mounts, I'll know for sure.

 

The hole will be at least 1/8" larger to allow for alignment. Larger gives you more wiggle room for alignment.

 

Spent a little time prepping and this is what the holes look like after knocking all the crud off them.



Not much left there. I'm going to cut these out and weld in some new pieces.

 

I would say you have some material to cut out there.