Hi, fellas.

I'm rebuilding a 1986 F-250 4x4 that someone else tore apart. I'm learning as I go and taking it pretty slowly. Mainly because I've never done anything like this before. I don't really have any helpers.

I have the engine set down and bolted in.

I have the transmission back from the rebuild shop and ready to go in. It's sitting on a little transmission floor jack.

Yesterday I re-attached the flex plate to the crankshaft (forgot to do it before mounting the engine but it went pretty good)

My questions:

1. Is there a gasket that goes between the bellhousing (C6) and the engine block?
2. How do I get transmission fluid into the torque converter?

Thank you,

Thomas

 

No gasket, but often a spacer plate (~1/8” thick) that goes between the two. It typically needs to be put on the block before the flexplate is installed.

Unsure on the converter. My trans sat for a year and a half between my engine swap. I just put fluid in the pan, cranked it, and adjusted level as needed as everything got filled.

 

Roger that. Thanks again!

 

There is ALWAYS a spacer plate on a Ford in my experience. If you do not install it, you will have starter problems.

The convertor will fill when you are filling the transmission for the first time through the dipstick tube. Put about 5 quarts in it through the dipstick tube and start the engine. Then pour 5 more quarts in as it is running. You will finish it off and using the dipstick while the engine is idling. It will usually take about 12 to 13 quarts of fluid when the convertor was empty. The convertor does have a drain on it if later you want to change ALL the fluid.

If you had a auto transmission failure, or you do not know the history of the truck, make sure you take and clean out the transmission oil cooler and lines that go to the radiator. Metal shavings from the old transmission and get caught in the radiator oil cooler and then those shavings will get into the new transmission and it will fail.

 

Got it. Thank you very much for the head's up. I do have new trans cooler lines in a box waiting.

I did just finish taking the flex plate back off and putting on the spacer plate.

Put the flex plate back on with lock tite 242 on the threads and ARP assembly lube under each bolt head. Torqued to 85 lbs/ft.

- Thomas

 

See if you can clean the radiator out somehow. I think they make something for this purpose, but it most likely is expensive. Maybe regular brake cleaner would do it. The online transmission rebuilders usually send a inline filter with their transmissions and require you to install it for the warranty.

 

I think I'm just going to buy a new radiator for the truck.
- Thomas

 

That will do it. Your transmission guy will have nothing to say if you have to bring it back and you tell him you cleaned the lines and put a new radiator in place.

 

Dave is right on the plate between the motor and transmission. If not there you will have starter issues as it locates the starter.

Now for filling the converter it WILL NOT fill from the dip stick tube only the trans pan will fill.
THIS IS NOT THE WAY TO FILL THE CONVERTER!
Once the pan is filled and the motor started the front pump will spin and start pumping ATF and then it will fill.

THIS IS THE WAY TO FILL THE CONVERTER!
Converter opening facing up pour a qt of ATF in the converter.
Before installing on the trans kind of move the converter so to "coat" the insides.
Now quickly put the converter on the trans and try not to let the ATF spill out.
When you get it in place you will need to spin it and kind of shake as you push it on, it should clip 3 times IIRC.
If you place a flat edge across the bell housing the converter should sit back inside and not touch the flat edge or it is not seated all the way.

Oh the reason for ATF in the converter and not let the pump fill it.
There are plastic bushings / washers and if there is no lube they melt and that is not good for the converter or trans.
Dave ----

 

Got it. Thank you, Dave.
- Thomas

 

Nowhere in this link do they say it is required to pre-fill the converter. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/gen...n-service.html

Most converters during this era had drain plugs to drain the converter in the vehicle. There is no way to pre-fill the converter in the vehicle. If you want to try to get some in the converter before you put it together by all means you can try it. But I do not see where it's required.

 

Got it. Thank you, Franklin.

-Thomas

 

A converter that was installed and been working then drained for service still has a oil coating on the thrust bushings so no need to pre-fill and as you pointed out you cant.

New converters do not have any lube on the thrush bushings and being they are plastic would melt (a little or lot?) before they got ATF at them.

If you dont think it is important would you rebuild a motor and not put any lube on the bearings, cam. lifters, etc. or pre-lube the oil system?
I think not so why not the converter? BTW this came from 2 different people that rebuilds / builds converters and the TV shows say the same thing.
After paying $1000 for a custom race converter you can bet I added ATF to it and never had any issues with it.

Anti balloon plate full welded on the back side.

If you dont want to add a qt of ATF to a new converter then dont but I will alway's add ATF.
Dave ----