This started back on 11/15/23 at about 114600 miles after I had my truck oiled for the winter at Carwell Products for it's annual spray. I cannot remember for certain if the boost gauge pegged right off the bat when the code was present, P0069, but I believe it did not. I was driving out to a closed for the season amusement park probably at least 20 to 25 miles away at that point. But at one point, I looked down to see the boost gauge maxed out. The truck was acting goofy for sure. When I got to the park, I popped the hood to let it cool down. The CEL was still on when I started the truck later on, the boost gauge was normal and the truck drove normal. I reset the code at home on the iDash. The Derrringer was on the stock setting (for you @speakerfritz ... )

On 11/24/2023, I installed a new Motorcraft MAP sensor at 115135 miles. I also removed the MAF sensor, which was not dirty, but cleaned it with MAF sensor cleaner.

On 12/18/23, at 116290 miles at work, truck would not start remotely. Horn would beep, lights flash twice and then nothing. Got in it to start and a CEL, code P0401.

On 12/19/23 at about 116400 miles, the boost gauge maxed out so I shut it off at a light, started back up and gauge went back to normal. Read the truck for codes and had a PENDING P0069.

12/19/23 at 116440 miles, CEL light off, code P0401 still stored on ECM but truck did start remotely for the first time since before the P0401 code.

On 12/20/23, at 116504 miles, had a stored P0401, a PENDING P04D9 and NO P0069.

Found this website...

P0069

P0401

P04D9

I do not think it's my S&B intake but I am going to remove the second oiled filter (with pre-filter) that has about 12k miles on it, and install the spare dry filter I have with the second pre filter I had to rule out the filter... I am going to start a new thread when I clean either the first oiled filter, that came with the intake or the second oiled filter, then re-install whatever one I do.

I installed the intake last year and have at least 24k miles on it. I believe the original EGR Cooler core is starting to clog and that's why Ford got away from the traditional finned EGR cooler design and went to the more open tubed design with the 17s. A Rod stated the 17 core will work on the 11 to 16 trucks, so even if the warranty won't cover the 17 EGR heater core, I am going to pay for it because I want this to go out way past 200k miles. Then when it's time, I'm buying a Bullet Proof Diesel 6.7 Powerstroke stainless steel EGR cooler. Not cheap but that's what I would with go after the 17 core starts to get clogged.

Truck is going in January 2nd... I am pulling the wiring on the PM and the Derringer prior to as when the Ford tech pulls the iDash harness from the OBD2 port to plug in to run the factory software, IDS, having the Banks stuff plugged into the truck would cause havoc with no power to them and the iDashes. .

 

I think you need a new EGR cooler and then they retest from there.

 

I agree Scott... I think I did pretty good on the life of the original cooler core (original design) for not pulling a load on a regular basis...

Let me ask you something, would a clogged EGR cooler core be a potential cause for the smell of occasional diesel exhaust in the cab?

This is interesting about the P0069 code...

MAP - Barometric Pressure Correlation

Description:

This DTC sets when the difference between the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) and barometric pressure (BARO) sensors is greater than the maximum calibrated limit.

Cause:

• Damaged BARO sensor
• Damaged MAP sensor
• Slow responding or biased MAP sensor
• Slow responding or biased BARO sensor

Diagnosis:

The presence of this DTC may indicate that the vehicle is operating in derate mode and may experience a loss of power. After repair, the vehicle may still display a system warning message. Drive the vehicle until the system warning message has cleared from the instrument cluster message center. If during KOEO the difference between the MAP and BARO sensors is greater than 4.5 kPa (0.65 psi) for greater than 5 seconds, a concern is indicated.

 

check your air filter? All of your cac tubes and the rubber boots and clamps?

 

fix the known issue of the EGR cooler, Check the air filter and check all connections. Then retest for the other codes would be my approach.

 

Yeah the clamps on all are tight... I'm going to mention that when I drop the truck off on 1/2/24. I'm just glad that this is going to be covered because those 8mm titanium bolts that clamp the EGR feed tube to the exhaust manifold are known to snap... no clue why Ford would decide to use titanium, or maybe a smaller titanium bolt, as they updated the 20s to a 10mm bolt... maybe someone can enlighten me why.

And make sure you guys check out the link to the Ford CEL codes I posted as it has more than just the Powertrain codes... that was a good find.

 

Yesterday I pulled all the Banks harness connections off, the PM harness off the factory throttle controller for the pedal and the Derringer tuner and its harness that goes to the MAP sensor and the fuel rail pressure sensor. I cable tied each harness, sprayed the connectors with the Carwell Products spray can oil (dielectric), put each one in a sandwich bag and wrapped electric tape on the bottom of the bag to protect the connectors. I tucked them back behind the brake vacuum booster for out of sight and out of mind for the upcoming January 2nd service appointment.

I must be honest, the stock throttle response, without the benefit of enhancement by the Pedal Monster, is lame as ****. Once this is done, all will go back on and be connected... it is a PITA getting under the dash to mess with the throttle controller wiring as the driver's seat bracket digs into your back.

I ended up pulling the iDash OBD2 port plug before doing this because I didn't want the stored P0401 code getting deleted if I was to disconnect the negative battery terminals...

I also removed the oiled filter with pre-filter, and replaced it with the dry filter I had as a spare with the second pre-filter I had purchased... the filter only had 12k miles or so. I don't believe the filter was responsible for the P0069 code but wanted to rule it out.

 

I think you have done all that was needed. I left my Idash hooked up to the port last time I dropped mine off for a recall.

 

Yes sir... everytime I've had my truck in for service, the iDash was hooked up, and then more recently when I added the second iDash with the PM and Derringer in June... so they know about them (iDash units)... I just wanted the PM and tuner wiring off the truck because it would have looked like the truck was having major issues when the Banks PM harness and Derringer harness were still in the truck's wiring without any power to them... when the tech plugged into the OBD2 port to run IDS.

 

Driving in this morning, took this pic.... Can't wait for the upcoming service appointment to be done and over so i can re-install the Pedal Monster... The throttle response is just so lame now without it... I had the tuner in stock mode which just bypasses the tuner and uses the ECM fueling software and the PM was in City mode which is the first or lowest level for the throttle. It's funny how the PM actually makes the truck feel like it has more power.

 

I imagine it is rather lame without the help of the banks.

 

There's a lot of throttle response delay without the PM, probably the torque management of the drive by wire throttle, that makes the truck feel sluggish... I mean she goes once the turbo hits, but just takes more time to get there without the increased throttle response sensitivity. When I leave my house, probably no more than a quarter mile away I have a hill to climb. In winter, I start my truck prior to walking outside to get the oil pressure up and get the oil going, no more than a couple of minutes because I have that hill. I like to keep the engine no higher than 2k RPMs, when climbing up, until the oil hits at least 100 degrees then I can get into it a little more... learned that here and have been doing it ever since. Without the PM, the truck feels sluggish going up the hill. With the PM, it feels stronger because there's no delay, and the throttle reacts quicker which makes the truck feel like a different truck, even with the tuner in stock mode (bypasses the Derringer).

 

have some warm thoughts from florida. A nice sunrise, dog likes it.

 

Rub it in Scott... rub it in... enjoy...

 

I think the reason for the factory delayed response is to build boost 1st and then increase fuel to ensure a clean burn.