Pinion Seal leak - 1990 F250 . . . Help!
#1
Pinion Seal leak - 1990 F250 . . . Help!
I have a 1990 F-250 7.3 L with about 230k miles -- nearly all stock. 4x4
My pinion seal started leaking this last week -- it is leaving a pretty obvious puddle under the front where it connects to the driveshaft.
Is there a thread that covers this repair? I can't seem to find one -- I assume I will also have to change the fluid and gasket in my rear end.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Joe
My pinion seal started leaking this last week -- it is leaving a pretty obvious puddle under the front where it connects to the driveshaft.
Is there a thread that covers this repair? I can't seem to find one -- I assume I will also have to change the fluid and gasket in my rear end.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Joe
#3
There's two methods: one is the half-butt way (mark pinion nut, remove nut, remove flange, replace seal, reassemble & tighten pinion nut to original marking) where you hope for proper pinion preload, and the other is by the book (recommended). By the book includes a new crush sleeve installed and let's you inspect all bearings. This requires a full tear down of the rear end (remove carrier). If going that far, it'd be wise to carefully inspect the bearings (inner/outer pinion & carrier) and replace if at all suspect. I've done this on 8.8" axles, but never a 10.25". It isn't terribly difficult, but does require attention to detail and a few special tools. Shop labor can be "cheap" (slap a new seal in) or expensive (maybe you need new bearings, I was quoted minimum $650). I thought it worth it to take the time to do it myself and buy/make a few tools.
Whether or not you're better off taking it to a pro, is only something you can answer. I had people tell me to just pay a shop. Depends how much time you have, what tools you have, and what kind of confidence you have that you can figure it out. In the end, I bet you can do it.
I don't have a step by step. Here's a thread with a little info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html
Here's a Youtube vid of the quicky seal R&R (the guys a little comical too):
But again, I would not advise this method because it doesn't recognize that bearing failure could very well be the seal failure's root cause.
I have had pinion bearing failure with high miles (suspected nail in the coffin was abuse: spin/grab off road), and from over tightening the pinion nut. Loose is better than too tight, as demonstrated in the attached photograph...I was happy it lived long enough to get me home like that, it rumbled something awful!
Whether or not you're better off taking it to a pro, is only something you can answer. I had people tell me to just pay a shop. Depends how much time you have, what tools you have, and what kind of confidence you have that you can figure it out. In the end, I bet you can do it.
I don't have a step by step. Here's a thread with a little info: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html
Here's a Youtube vid of the quicky seal R&R (the guys a little comical too):
I have had pinion bearing failure with high miles (suspected nail in the coffin was abuse: spin/grab off road), and from over tightening the pinion nut. Loose is better than too tight, as demonstrated in the attached photograph...I was happy it lived long enough to get me home like that, it rumbled something awful!
#6
#7
X3...I have done the cheap and dirty method many times with good results. As long as the seal is intact and only allowing a small seep you can usually get away without disassembling everything. Be sure to mark the nut and pinion so you can accurately out it back in the same spot.
The Sterling 10.25 rear axle is known to loose the preload and let that nut loosen. If that's the case, you need to start from scratch to get it back together with any chance it will last.
The Sterling 10.25 rear axle is known to loose the preload and let that nut loosen. If that's the case, you need to start from scratch to get it back together with any chance it will last.
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