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That's actually surge, and it's only in milliseconds. That particular attempt caught two levels, which is unusual. The ammeter was set to record peak, not continuous like the second half of the video. The other surge recordings I took are in the 1500a range.
Typical initial surge is 4x operational current, and that falls in line with what I measured. Surge current is the same as stall current, since under both situations the armature is not rotating and developing a backwards EMF that limits current from my 44 year old training. Maybe things have been learned since then and age has skewed the old knowledge.
You would not cable for the surge current, but somewhat peak and mainly the running current flow.
That's actually surge, and it's only in milliseconds. That particular attempt caught two levels, which is unusual. The ammeter was set to record peak, not continuous like the second half of the video. The other surge recordings I took are in the 1500a range.
Typical initial surge is 4x operational current, and that falls in line with what I measured. Surge current is the same as stall current, since under both situations the armature is not rotating and developing a backwards EMF that limits current from my 44 year old training. Maybe things have been learned since then and age has skewed the old knowledge.
You would not cable for the surge current, but somewhat peak and mainly the running current flow.
Thanks for the clarification Jack. Great work as usual
I'm measuring that from the 6.4 starter, and 1.75m thread spacing from an uncomfortable internal thread measurement. To my tap the threaded hole is a tight fit, but most taps are usually sized large. I won't be real comfortable until I get that bolt out, but everything appears to be 12mmx1.75mmx40mm.
So now I have a box of 10mm to go back to McMaster and ordering 12mm since I wanted to replace the factory bolts with the serrated ones. It wasn't from you but from the other site where I also got the 10mm idea. The cost of a box was as almost as much as a Ford dealer would change for one.
I was looking for an economic choice for a bushing and these may work if an 8mm screw is used in a 12mm bolt housing hole. Not sure a bushing is actually needed since starter rotation should be restrained but the clamping friction between the bellhousing and starter housing.
Thanks guys! I went back and edited to show correct info. Going back to the whole reason I ended up with a cracked 6.0 starter housing and putting the 6.4 on...over time the lower bolt backed out and at some point while it was still in but not torqued (hanging loose probably) and having 0 clamping force allowed the housing to rotate and with the loose bolt in put enough pressure to crack the lower portion of the housing.
Knowing this I think I would want to stay with the smaller diameter bolt as opposed to removing material from the housing to fit a 12mm bolt and as Jack is determining what the right spacer will be will take care of any slop in the bell-housing (just in case of a bolt backing out and loosing it's clamping force). Should not be a problem if blue thread lock is used, which reminds me...I have to do that to the new trans pan bolts and re-torque so I will do the starter bolts while down there.
I think one of those should work. I couldn't find a metric example of the proper size in their catalog so went with imperial. Let me take that back, they may have had a 8mm/12mm example, but I think it was limited to 8mm in length. All I was thinking of was to take up the slack between the bolt and the hole.
Some well stocked hardware or bearing supply stores locally may have an exact product.
Jack, I like the bushing idea. In an application like this a bolt in tension would not be nearly as effective at stopping rotational movement as a bolt in shear.
Jack, I like the bushing idea. In an application like this a bolt in tension would not be nearly as effective at stopping rotational movement as a bolt in shear.
It now looks like the bushing is the way to go. I was going to try to drill out from 10 to 12 but as was said earlier I think 8 to 12 is too big of a jump. But your statement here is what reminded me of the indexing between the 6.0 and the 6.7 starters. Hoping the rotational forces wouldn't hurt that between the different bolt sizes. It looks like the bushing would be the only way to prevent that.
Yeah, this is one of those weird places for me. I really feel that with an 8mm bolt it should be bushed, especially since there is a history of trucks loosing starter bolts, the entire reason I'm buying serrated flange bolts (Loctite works too). But I've got 30 years of brake rotors are kept in place by clamping friction, not lug studs. My truck, I'd be bushing the clearance. I'm just over analyzing today.
Well I just confirmed my first thought that in the case of the 6.7 starter, drilling it out will remove to much material in my opinion. I agree that going with a bushing and using a 8mm bolt on the bottom instead of the factory 12mm. In untouched form the 6.7 starter ear is about 1 mm thinner than the 6.0 or 6.4 starter. Removing 4mm shouldn't even be an option
Another thing to consider, in the event that you did have to file a warranty claim, it could be potentially denied if the starter has been altered. The chances of them noticing are slim but hey, at least this method requires zero modification to your truck or the starter.
Hey Jack do you have a source for bushings by chance?
From my calculations a 1/2" x 3/8" sleeve will leave a combined available movement of about 2.4mm. Whereas stock there is only about 1mm of available movement between the bolt and the hole.... Maybe I'm starting to get picky here.....
Was looking trying to find the appearance difference between the three were. 6.0 and 6.4 I don't see any outward differences. Someone may see something I don't.
Thanks for posting this pic! I just found out I was sold a 6.4 starter, NOT a 6.7. Dang eBay. Still worth 75 bucks I guess. Putting it in now. No wonder the bottom bolt screwed right in.
The difference was this rib in my pic is different on a 6.7 starter.
Oh and the bottom bolt was finger loose. Glad I looked.
6.4 starter
10-30-2016, 09:51 AM
and age has skewed the old knowledge.
