I plugged in my basic OBDII scanner but I'm getting nothing back (the scanner works on my car so it's not the scanner). This is inline with the transmission shop where they said they couldn't connect either to my truck. But now the question is: now what? I don't think there is a fuse or such but I'll let you guys tell me how to troubleshoot the port.

Oh, and no, the CEL is not illuminated, just the ABS light remaining on from when my 4R100 was replaced a couple weeks ago. Can't connect to diagnose.

 

#1: TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION AND TOSS THEM IN THE WOODS!

VERIFY THE OBD-II CONNECTOR IS MOUNTED AS SHOWN BELOW AND HAS NOT BEEN ALTERED.

DO NOT JAM THE DVOM LEADS INTO THE DATA LINK. Use just the Tip or a T-Pin or Back Probe Pin. Take care not to alter the pins.


Note: Check all fuses. The OBD-II Link IS protected! And, uses the Cigarette Lighter Circuit. My question is: Why? Moving on...

PWM PCM OBD-II Connection on Diesels (7.3L) uses only 8 of the OBD-II Pin Points

#2: Pin# 4 is Chassis Ground. You should have no resistance between Pin#4 and the Chassis Ground.

#3: Pin#5 is Sensor Ground - You should have no resistance between Pin#5 and any Sensor.

Once you have completed the above tests (#1-#3) you may put the key in the ignition and begin #4.

#4: Pin#16 (L-R Bottom Row, last pin) is 12vdc and should be active with KOEO. You should see 12vdc KOEO between Pin#16 and Pin#4.

** It is IMPORTANT this be a steady voltage.

Post back your findings.

 

I think part of the key to this issue could be the fact that the OBD port on these trucks is not a standard OBD compliant port. I have heard the basic scanners, as you mentioned you tried using, have a hard time reading anything on these trucks, and if they do it is extremely limited. A truck shop that deals with these vehicles on a regular basis, a ford dealer, or buying (or coaxing a friend who may have one) another scan tool (Autoenginuity is popular and works very well) to read these codes would be an avenue i would consider before trying to tear to deeply into the trucks wiring.

 

When mine has had problems, it's always been the fuse. Easiest check is to see if the cigarette lighter has power, if not the fuse is blown. I forget which one it is but OBD and cigarette lighter are both on the same fuse.

I have a cheapo code reader that will pick up the OBD port in this truck just fine, it won't give you more than basic diagnostic and probably won't help with an ABS light but it still should connect and power up.

 

Just FYI

The OBD-II Programming for the PCM Strategy did not require the EPA Regulatory Requirements as on Gassers on vehicles 8,300 lbs.

The Data Link (OBD-II) and PCM (104 Pin) Connectors are the same used in all Ford PWM Vehicles from 1996 on Using the PWM PCM - We use only 8 of the 16 OBD-II Data Pins and of the 104 Pin PCM Cable we use only 69.

 

Okay, here are the results of the steps:

#1 Done.
#2 Showing 20 ohms of resistance to "chassis" which was against random bare nuts on door and paint-bare spot on door step. Not sure if this is really 20 ohms or just bad contact points
#3 Ohms same as #2 as I used the same contact points in step #2 (don't know which sensor to test it against?)
#4 Looked for keys in woods for 20 mins until too dark. Got pissed and drank a beer. Used flashlight until the batteries drained down. Got pissed again and drank another beer. Got on hands and knees and searched until found keys. Got happy and drank another beer. Measured #16 to #4 voltage with KOEO: Zero volts. Might have something here...

So I'm assuming there is a fuse I'm missing. Will look again but not seeing it this instant. Thoughts?

 

I think it should be fuse #12 in the under dash fuse box but check your owners manual. It will list it as cigar lighter/data link.

 

The 20 OHMS is concerning.... We'll tackle that later. I worked on a Car years ago that would have saved the owner an engine, an ECU, who knows how many hours of labor he spent. He said it would cost too much to bring it the Dealership for me to troubleshoot.... bad PCM Ground.

He put an ECM's and a Junk Yard Engine in it trying to keep it running and communicating with the ECM. Spliced one wire after about an hour of Labor and it ran perfectly.

05-07 Focus has a history for that

You may not be missing a fuse. But, there is certainly an issue with the circuit it feeds.

 

Yep, I missed the fuse. #3, 20A, under the steering column. When I read the owners manual, it didn't register the Data Link Connector is the OBDII port. I didn't have a 20A replacement but used a 7.5A to verify this was the culprit. I can now connect my Harbor Freight scanner but like was said before, I can't get to the ABS light module.

Been thinking about getting some kind of good scanner/digital gage system. I like Rich's set up on Stinky...just need to figure out if I toss the couple benjy's at it. One for the reader and one for a used tablet.

 

Thomas- I agree that 20 ohms is pretty high I'll try the resistance-to-ground check again this weekend when I have more time. I'm just trying to get the port to work so the transmission shop to get connected with their scanner when I'm in their area tomorrow. Hopefully the fuse was the issue and I can get rid of the ABS light. Just feel ignorant that I missed a fuse but thanks for detailed write up with pics. Greatly appreciated.

 

Note, all of this assumes you have an Android phone or tablet. If you're an Apple guy, I don't know what's available.

ForScan is available in the Google Play store and will read the ABS code. It's only about $5 but you need to have a bluetooth OBD connector. Not all of the ones you find on eBay and Amazon support our protocol, this one does - .

Once you have this, you can also get TorquePro for about $30 and have access to many PIDs for gauges during driving. This lets you monitor things like Trans Temp, Boost, and a lot of other stuff without having to install gauges. You'll still need something for EGT and fuel pressure, if you want to watch those, but Torque will let you watch most anything else we like to see.

The other option is to buy AutoEnginuity or something like that, and I have it as well, but I'm finding it a lot easier to just use the Android stuff since I always have my phone with me, vs. pulling out the laptop to check a code or watch a couple of sensors.

With any of these, pull and clear codes with the engine off, they all seem to kill the engine otherwise, I think it happens when they try to pull the VIN using an unsupported PID.

 

yeah, I'm an Apple dude but from reading all the posts, it sounds like I just need to buy a cheap android tablet and be done with it. At least I can leave the tablet in the truck, or maybe even mount it so it's a 'permanent' install. Haven't got that far. As always, it's a matter of "do I spend money on what's needed: brakes, u-joints, random other preventive maintenance items" or "spend money on fun stuff"

I'll start another thread on what virtual guages to install. Thanks for the link above.

 

If it helps, when it comes time to diagnose problems, these tools will be a lot more than "fun stuff" and will pay for themselves. You should be able to do the whole deal for less than $150 if you get a cheap Android tablet off eBay or something. ForScan is about $5, Torque Pro is I think about $5, the ODB connector is around $30 and you can get a tablet for $50 or so.

 

The funny thing is it was the almost $150 charge the dealership was trying to stick me with for a simple scan that got me thinking in this direction. I was returning my transmission core (the parts guys were great) and mentioned my ABS light was now on after the new trans install and the trans shop couldn't connect. I asked if they could just pull the code to see what the issue was. They brought over the Service Rep who started taking my info and getting my truck in line to get scanned when he asked for my form of payment. I asked how much and he said $129 plus tax. I politely said no thanks and walked away. The parts guy was not happy about this but there wasn't much he could do.

Anyway, I agree. For $150-ish, I'm thinking there are doable solutions. Just need to pick one.

 

https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/

Check this link to begin with.

1. Don't buys something you're only going to use once. Or,

2. Something that is not compatible across regions and manufacturers.

There are literally hundreds of options / formats / systems / platforms out there.

At a "minimum" you'll want one that will work with Pulse With Modulation (PWM) and is Bi-Directional Communications Capable. That'll covers just about everything through 2008 and then some.

Just need to decide if you want an Android / Apple / PC Interface or Stand Alone.

Some question to ask yourself is:

Do you want it expandable?

Do you want it Stand Alone?

Would you like to be able to use it across many platforms: Domestic / Foreign?

Do you wish to Program with it?

I see a LOT of Technicians using Torque Pro in the Shops on their Phones. I know you're an Apple Guy. But, pick up a used Android with no service for $25 on e-bay and you're set.

Check this out: