Stock '63 292 Help!
I'd like to get the most out of the engine without turning it into some behemoth that is a never ending money pit, so I need some much appreciated advice. I basically just want a reliable engine that has decent power and looks cool.
1. Manifold/Carbs - How far should I go without wasting my money? Right now it's a 2 barrel and I'd like to upgrade, but would going to something like a 3 x 2 Edel. 573 be worth it? Would just going to a 4 barrel be more prudent? Or maybe a 2 x 4?
2. Cam/Crank - Should I even bother with these?
3. Headers - I've seen Sandersons...would it be worth changing to dual exhaust from the crossover pipe?
4. T98 4 spd manual - Would it be fine to leave this alone? Could it handle some modest changes from stock?
5. Rear end - 4.56, definitely built for the low end. Any ideas?
Hope to hear from you guys....
If you feel lucky then go to a .080 overbore (largest size pistons available) ECZ-C or ECZ-G (or similar spec) heads with a 30-50 thou cut, then zero deck the block. The 573 intake is great for looks but doesnt work any better than a 600-700 cfm 4 bbl. Yeah, I went for the looks myself.
If the F250 wont be worked to the limit then go with a 9" rear and select a ratio you can live with. This will change your wheel pattern tho so also consider what you will be doing up front.
If thats not an option the Dana 60 rear has several better ratio choices.
You can also go with one of the RUG series 3spd + OD trannies. The T98 will never win any fast shifting awards!
Would I necessarily need to change the transmission? In other words, if I modified the engine and changed the rear end, would leaving the transmission a T98 negate what I've done with the engine and rear end?
Thanks a ton for your earlier reply!
There's a stock 4bb intake manifold that will fit the Holley carb. Use the ECG rockers. ECZ-C heads sell for less than the ECZ-G and they're nearly as good. Pertronix or Pertronix II ignition.
I don't think that the iron dual exhaust manifolds will clear the steering box so you might want the Red's Headers.
John Mummert sells cams. Call him.
The 9" rear was used by Ford from 1957-85 and the F100/150 trucks used a 5 bolt on 5.5" pattern. Since the 250 is an 8 lug setup using the Dana rear it might not be what you want.
Dana 60 rears are often available in 3.7 and 4.10 ratios in bone yards but are a royal pain to swap and setup. Often easier to swap drum to drum.
The T98 doesnt require changing with any rear end. The only variable is driveshaft length and rear U joint.
I believe you have the 2 piece driveshaft so it shouldnt be a problem to find a longer or shorter rear if necessary.
BTW, 2nd thru 4th ratios in the T98 is the same as a regular 3 pd.
As usual, Carl is right on the money.
I don't think that the iron dual exhaust manifolds will clear the steering box so you might want the Red's Headers.
John Mummert sells cams. Call him.
clutch cross shaft, the dual exhaust manifolds
exit dead center of it, I switched my '63 to a
cable set-up that I rigged together, works well,
and got the stock duals too...
Last edited by rebman; Aug 27, 2003 at 06:21 PM.
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Re: T98. I'm not in it for racing, either. Just for cruising. So shifting speed doesn't really matter to me.
I think I'll probably end up adding the 3 X 2 or 2 X 4, Red's 4 in 1 headers, and electronic ignition, leave the T98 alone, and change the ratio in my Dana 60 from 4.56 to 3.54 or 3.73.
My complaint about the T98 is the long throw and the non syncro 1st/reverse. I use my F350 a lot and spend a lot of time manuvering into difficult spots. Im seriously considering a CruiseO/FMX modified auto tranny.



