Hello Everyone,

I've been a non registered lurker for a year or so researching. My grandfather has a '78 F150 Custom that has been sitting since '96 (Ran when parked deal) that I recently have taken a liking towards. I was "promised" it as payment for installing a new tappet cover on his 24v Cummins. (I should also say this is a 3 hour drive one way to even look at this vehicle so my trips are normally planned out)

Well lets start from the beginning, if you are interested. (There will be pictures. and a TL;DR at the bottom)




Decoded when I first took pictures. Like I said, its been sitting for ~30 years now.

California 351m. (Catalyst, Thermactor, EGR, the whole 9 yards) NP435. D44 Front, 9" Rear.
Now I know that the first thing you do with these vehicles is to see if the engine is good or not. Well... I haven't checked that yet. I would like to do an oil change (the oil is black. Luckily not milky or water), however the front tires have seen better days and the whole front end sunk into the ground pretty much. So doing an oil change in mud with tall grass surrounding I think I'm good.
I was able to turn the engine over with a breaker bar and gave up after a single rotation (the rad fan was in the way and it was hot).
My plan is to change the oil (with ZDDP), prime the engine and fire it up, but in the meantime.

I'm not a mechanic. Diagnostics aren't my strong suit. So I pretty much fired the parts howitzer at this thing. (Rock Auto for the majority)
NGK Plugs & Wires
Wells Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, & Voltage Regulator. (The old Ignition coil was bulging, so the bracket expanded a little bit. Nothing tape can't fix)
Napa Starter Solenoid
Made up some new battery cables since the terminals on the old ones were pretty messed up from people hammering them on. (Not installed...yet).
I rebuilt the 2150 2bbl carb (using a NAPA kit) when I took some of these original pictures (any where where there is dead grass).

Planned:
New Hoses (Coolant, Fuel, Vacuum)
New Napa 194 (that may be the wrong number, but it was the one that's mentioned in another thread on here)
Alternator (I'm kind of dumb and didn't think to even do the 3g upgrade, so that'll be a future upgrade as I want extras)
I was planning on rebuilding the Thermactor pump, however I cannot for the life of me get the front fan blades off and everything is already disassembled so I may have to go hunting. (I also probably shouldn't of touched it, as it was free spinning)
Eventually after smog (if it passes) to toss in a new timing chain and do the "straight up" timing.
Heater core & Blower Motor/Cage.
Motor Mounts



After I remembered that I have a jack and some stands I put the front end up and pulled the front tires. I currently have 4 new Goodyear Wrangler Trailhunters (235/75/r15) waiting to be brought up and installed. (Gonna do balancing beads and if its *** then I'll get a shop to balance them). However, the front brakes are seized and there's no way this thing is rolling out without fixing those. So once again load up the parts howitzer.

Front Rotors & Pads
New Calipers
New Soft lines
Rear Drums & Shoes
Hardware Kit
Wheel Cylinders
Lug Studs
New Wheel Bearings & Seals. (There's a post on here saying to also do the spindle bearing while you're in there, but I just wanna get this thing going and I'll worry about stuff later)

And that's all for now.

Here are some more pictures.



I'm kinda pissed off at this picture, 69420 was missed 30 years ago. (I'm assuming its rolled over once due to it's age)







You can see the tire that was taken off is a little misshapen. The spare has a massive crack that turned into a hole on the other side and those tires in the bed are also cooked. Surprisingly the rear tires are still holding air.

I also pulled off the side markers to see if I could replicate them in CAD and make my own. (maybe make some cool LED sequentials or something).

I guess my only question for those out there. If the engine grenades itself *knocks on wood* is it worth rebuilding in it's "original" configuration? I would probably make some internal upgrades. Maybe not as far as taking it to a 400 stroker, but minor things that could spoof smog. (I only have to pass it once to re-register it in this county)

And now that I am previewing my post before I post it, I though the 78's only had square lights. Was there a cut off in the manufacturing or was it a trim thing?


TL;DR:
My grandfather promised me a 1978 F150 Custom with a 351m & 4Spd as payment for a job. I am performing "repairs" out of order due to certain situational issues. Planned Upgrades. I'll just continue on this thread whenever I can / am feeling it.

I look forward to participating on FTE here in the future.

 

Well, it sounds like a good trade for the mechanics work on the Cummins
I'd (long term) keep the 400 and throw a 460 in it
You live in CA and need CARB cert?
Once only forever?
If so, pass I/M in it's current configuration if it will
Put a carb kit or at least a power valve in it before the I/M test
Good thing it sounds like you have some mechanic skills

 

I live in CA, but there are certain counties (more AG oriented) that don't require smog checks every two years. Only when you first register (or re-register in this case) it or sell it. Most CA Counties are not like this I think there's only 6 like this.

I appreciate the input. The other thing about CA are the engine swaps. I can only go up in years. And they would require all the emissions stuff that originally came on the engine. (I think that's why LS swaps are so popular here, because it's the only approved crate engine) My other idea is if the engine grenades, *knocks on wood harder* he has a 4bt Cummins laying around that could be rebuilt.

 

Looks to be a fun project, 2x4 short bed.

I've had a 351M auto 4wd since 1986, driven from northern Vermont to Alabama, and across Georgia, up the shore, outer Banks, all across Maryland and through West Virginia, I have a 400 short block resting on a stand as insurance, but no intentions of putting it in otherwise, and absolutely no 429 or 460 aspirations. Being that it's a 4x4, I have replaced lower end bearings, etc in place just because I could in 2023 (but in 1992 at 75,000 miles it was needed). It has had a Crane Fireball cam straight up and Edelbrock Performer series 4 bbl intake and Holley 1850 since the '80s, though I have for a few years had an Edelbrock 1405 on it. I put AC in it in the '80s, but after not using it in years, AC is dead now.

 

Good project, and I think that's a pretty good parts/task list. I bet it will run, but that carb might need some attention. I would drain all of the fuel, clean the tank the best you can, flush (preferable replaces) the lines and try to get it to fire. Run a good fuel filter. After that, I would tear into the carb and start rebuilding.

Headlights: '78 was a transition year. Some of the higher end models got square headlight but the lower end stuff like Customs got the round ones in the square buckets.

 

I like that truck! It looks perfect the way it is. Those bed tie downs are pretty rare. Always wanted a set. 78 round headlights are freaking awesome.

I am a hardcore 351C/M/400 diehard enthusiast. They make plenty of power, and will literally run forever. Best engine ford ever made as far as I’m concerned (fun 351M/400 fact: Robust, overbuilt and dependable, 351m/400 is The only ford engine to be borne exclusively from a racing engine design. Boss 302, Boss 351, 351H.O. 351 cobra jet and early 400s all share similar architecture and interchangeability with later “smog” 351M/400s. Now go find you a ‘71 400 short block, some boss 351 4v heads and go take coyote LS money.

But….Its 2026, they haven’t been produced since 1983, , parts are getting exorbitantly priced for them (add 25%-50% if it’s for a 335 series) most machine shops don’t know how to work on them anymore (oiling mods, valvetrain geometry, 1 pc valves, quench etc) and parts availability. (Try to find a 400 crank for example) the days of going to the junkyard and finding parts that fit 351/400 are long OVER. Auto parts stores are no better. Valley pan gasket, oil pan gasket, fuel pump, oil pump or a thermostat for a 78 351m/400? OUT OF STOCK. Forever. Online only, wait two weeks for parts, pay more and receive 400 Chevy/pontiac/0ldsmobile parts anyway because you didn’t specify “400M” (YES, pop pop, 400M.) to differentiate it from the half dozen other 400 engines of the 70s.

Comedy aside, PLEASE build 351M/400 if you have the patience and pockets for it. You will not be disappointed. If not, 351 windsors are still everywhere, make plenty of power, parts are cheap, and they fit right in our trucks (change the bell housing and some brackets) weigh less, get slightly better MPG, the parts stores have nearly everything you’d need for one on any given Saturday. I prescribe a stealthy 427 Windsor stroker, painted to look all stock, all 1978 emissions compliant stuff intact under a stock appearing air cleaner with your awesome original patina paint. Fool the smog boys, kick butt, have money leftover in yer pocket for wheelin! Bam!

nice truck, good luck!

 

I said I'd update this as time went on..

Let's see. I showed up on Saturday Morning to find a cow had knocked the truck off the jack stands. No major damage, just a bent brake dust shield. Nothing a screwdriver didn't fix.



Instead of sliding a jack under and maybe damaging something we lifted it up with a back hoe and got it a little bit more stable on some 2x6s and jack stands.

I then got to work on the front tires. This wasn't fun, but I was able to pull off the deformed tires and mount some fresh Goodyear Trailhunters. (235/75r15). The rears will wait until next time. As they are still holding 30 year old air. (Surprisingly)

With the front tires off, I pull the caliper, rotor/hub off. And while I debating doing the spindle bearing, U joint, and inner axle seal. I figured that now wasn't the time.

Slammed out the old studs did inner and outer wheel bearing races, and installed new parts.

Man you guys weren't kidding about the locking hubs. It took me like 2 or 3 hours to put both of them back together. And my hands still hurt from it!


I did get new brake lines and replaced them from the brake proportioning valve to the calipers. I learned that most of the **** underneath isn't rust, but dirt/mud. Sure there's some rust, but the floors passed the screwdriver test and most of the fasteners came off with little to no issues.

I gave up the rest of the day to just hanging out. So the next day (Sunday) I showed up already sore and with a runny nose from allergies kicking my ***.

I knew I didn't want to do much, so I drained the oil. Black as tar, smelled slightly of gas, but I'm not too concerned. Threw some fresh synthetic 5w30 and some zddp additive. Unfortunately didn't prime anything as I couldn't find my priming tool I bought. But moved on to the radiator hoses.. in hindsight. After I drained the coolant I should of also done the thermostat. Oh well.

Did the upper and lower hoses and refilled the coolant. And after doing the fluid swaps. (From the drain pans to their containers) And not wanting to continue on. I pushed forward and did the starter. And it's a good thing I did, Because the starter wire had been either cut, rotted through, or chewed on. Because as soon as I pulled the bolts it dropped. So I threw a reman on and have to make a new starter wire. (Not a huge deal).

And I guess that's all I did. We put the fresh tires on and pulled it off the jack stands.

I will probably be back up there this weekend and will work on the engine to get it running. Maybe pull the rear tires off and bring those to get swapped. And then do rear drums, shoes and brake lines. Maybe I might just fill the brake reservoir and just send it for right now.

But anyways. It's starting to look right again.



I do need to do a full suspension bushing kit, and will definitely need to do ball joints and steering stuff, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

 

Hopefully this bumps my thread and I get more eyes on this.

Lets see, two weeks ago 05/30 I went to work on the truck and didn't actually get much done. I had made new battery wires, and ran them. Took off the starter and ran it's new wire as well.

Attempted to run the belts, but funny story... the two main belts I had purchased (one was like 3 years ago, and the newer like 2 months ago) were too small. So ordered a new 52" belt. and waited on that.

Ummmm. Oh, found out the distributor is frozen in the block ... Thanks M block. So I couldn't prime the engine like I wanted. Sooooo. With all that said. I hooked the battery up (and a jump pack), and just cranked it. It turned over no problem. I did 3 20 second cranks with like 3 minutes in between. I didn't get any pressure at the dash so I chalked that up to bad sender. (it should of previously had oil in the pump that hadn't drained out so I don't think I ran it dry). It puked old fuel up out of the pump/lines (didn't think to try and catch it in a bucket the first couple times) And that was really it for two weeks. Ordered some parts, and waited.

Fast forward to this weekend. and immediately started on it on Saturday. No lolly-gagging. I jacked the rear up and removed the old rotted tires. (had a local shop do them for 40), came back and removed the air and filled them with the balancing beads. Then I started on the rear brakes. Let me tell you. It has been a really long time since I have worked on drums. I had to do drum on my '04 Taurus like 11 years ago and it was a nightmare. This went surprisingly well. Up until I started to do the other side and noticed that I had "spare parts" and that I had put the bigger shoe on the wrong side. But the Drivers Side was perfect. (Still did not remedy the "spare parts", or the shoe being on the wrong side). Made up new hard lines for the rear and replaced the center line coming from the frame rails.
Couldn't bleed the brakes. The master cylinder has gone bad. (no surprise there its a 50 year old car thats been sitting for 30 years in the hot California sun) So with that. I put on the 52" belt and then the alternator belt. It was late so I called it a night..

Came back the next day (today 06-07) and once again no lolly gagging. Pulled the tank down. which BTW. whomever was the previous owner prior to my grandfather should be shot. There were 3 splices from where the rear lights had been spliced. AND they decided it was a good idea to run directly under the tank instead of through the frame rail.
Installed new filler neck hoses, new sender (& soft hose that goes to the hard line), completely forgot to get a vapor vent, so I just kind of stuck in back into place and am giving it my thoughts and prayers. There was not a lot of gas in there. and to my surprise. The tank is fine. There's sediment in the bottom of the tank, but the bottom and sides (that I could see) have no rust. So I threw it back in and put 2 more gallons of fresh fuel because I want to start this thing. Cranked the engine over and put the fuel pump line into a bucket. and nothing came out. same thing. cranked for 3 20 second sessions and no fuel. not even anymore bad fuel. So, since I had it. I swapped the fuel pump. (which, damn that was easier than I thought it was going to be). Same thing, not pulling any fuel. So my assumption is that since the truck is facing downwards on a slight hill. the 2 gallons is pooled up into the front corner of the tank and there's not enough to get sucked through the sender.

So in the meantime, I replaced the oil sender, vacuumed the intake area since there had been rodents living there previously (and gave me a chance to try my new HF battery powered vacuum). then I started on swapping out vacuum lines with new stuff I had bought. Well. almost immediately the three 90º nipples snapped and I was so disheartened that I pretty much mentally packed it up. (I know, I know) I had ordered some, but Amazon decided to delay my package a day so I couldn't do anything about it. I threw new ARP studs in for the carb and mounted the carb back onto the intake again.

Since I won't be able to get back up there for a couple weeks I decided to take the instrument cluster. and wouldn't you know it. the whole thing disintegrated in my hands. I had to break the Speedo Quick Disconnect Clip, because the tab had broken off. Which now I am realizing that I need a new cable... (damn). But now I have a big project to work on while I wait to go back up there.

Um, here are some pictures. (I didn't take very many because I was covered in dirt).


Yes, this is the drum I need to do again.




Bad Master Cylinder. I'll probably go with one of those new cool dual diaphragm zinc one.




This one was a picture of the new fuel pump, but I guess also the new belt(s) too.