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Then came knocking out the rivets that hold the rear suspension so everything can be easily removed without damage when the rear axle gets narrowed and the frame gets altered for the four-link suspension with coil-overs:
Last edited by mustangman7; May 27, 2026 at 01:44 PM.
And this is the latest progress pictures I have. I had it dropped off at the chassis shop last Wednesday for the rear suspension work and to have the custom headers made:
Last edited by mustangman7; May 27, 2026 at 10:23 AM.
Checked in on it at the chassis shop and he has begun to build the headers and we talked quite in depth about narrowing the rear frame for tire clearance.
I think you can fit a 10.5 tire on the back in stock form?
If you narrow the frame rails, that leads to a myriad of changes which can prolong a guys project.
Is it a street truck or drag truck?
I will be putting 18 1/2" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Tires under it.
We will be moving the frame in only 3" per side for extra clearance. Not my first rodeo. First was a Pro-Street Fox Body Mustang that ran 8:40's in the 1/4 at 160 mph with a N/A BBF in it running 14" x 32" Firestone Slicks.
It is 90% a Street Truck and 10% a Drag Truck.
It will have a 572 CI Boss 429 with a single 4bbl N/A with about 830 hp running on pump gas.
Last edited by mustangman7; Jun 4, 2026 at 09:26 AM.
I will be putting 18 1/2" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Tires under it.
We will be moving the frame in only 3" per side for extra clearance. Not my first rodeo. First was a Pro-Street Fox Body Mustang that ran 8:40's in the 1/4 at 160 mph with a N/A BBF in it running 14" x 32" Firestone Slicks.
It is 90% a Street Truck and 10% a Drag Truck.
It will have a 572 CI Boss 429 with a single 4bbl N/A with about 830 hp running on pump gas.
Sure...you can have all the power you want but if you aren't planning to put it down, you don't need 18.5 wides. that's why i was curious if street truck (fun tire smoker) or drag truck (i plan to put all this power to the ground....large tire, 4 link...etc)
it sounds like you plan to be able to put the power to the ground.
Sure...you can have all the power you want but if you aren't planning to put it down, you don't need 18.5 wides. that's why i was curious if street truck (fun tire smoker) or drag truck (i plan to put all this power to the ground....large tire, 4 link...etc)
it sounds like you plan to be able to put the power to the ground.
Can't wait to see it come together!
You are 100% Correct and I learned a long time ago about having enough tire for the power ratio! I had a 1967 Mustang Coupe with Boss 351 and a 6/71 Hampton Supercharger that had Radial T/a's on it and I put the car sideways and up in smoke at 55 mph by matting the pedal without downshifting! Then I built a Fox Body Mustang with 14x32 slicks and the very first pass I stood it on the back bumper. So been there done that! LOL
Dang it, now I’ve gotta design a twin turbo set up for mine. Keeping up with the Jones’.
At least a 20’ long truck that weighs 6500 is less likely to lift off?
Dang it, now I’ve gotta design a twin turbo set up for mine. Keeping up with the Jones’.
At least a 20’ long truck that weighs 6500 is less likely to lift off?
Killer build.
Thanks. The 2 reasons I decided against doing a twin turbo set-up was the excess heat and all the plumbing involved and I plan on daily driving this truck so I wanted to go single 4 bbl carb and run pump gas. The 572 ci Boss 429 was the farthest we could push the size and still have dependability and run on pump gas. Just needed a tad more tire to be able to enjoy driving it without it being a tire shredding burn-out monster! (which it still may be?) Also putting a Gear Venders Overdrive unit on it so I can run a bigger rear gear and still be able to drive 70 on the freeway.
Oh, and as far as keeping up with the Jones'? THEY are going to have to figure out how to keep up with ME! LOL!
Last edited by mustangman7; Jun 5, 2026 at 07:53 AM.
That’s a pretty incredible combination. I looked into the Boss heads while I still had my 429, but got sticker shock and then started doing the math for all the other components. It is surprising though that more aren’t on the street considering the current trend of putting mod motors (coyote and Godzilla stuff) in darn near everything. They’re expensive, complicated, and bigger than most standard pushrod OHV set ups.
I was thinking back to what the guy that built my engine told me; all forged parts on the bottom so WHEN I was ready for a supercharger or turbo I could. I thought he was kidding, but now every once in a while it pops into my head.
Originally I had wanted to build a turbo 300 with 8-10psi to make 400-500. He convinced me to go with a 428 with a roller valve train that’ll make that NA. It scoots pretty good for 6500# with 3.54 gears, but I start thinking about not just keeping up with the flow. Probably wouldn’t help my economy much either.
Anyway, looking forward to seeing your build process. I’m already super impressed, jealous, and wishing I’d approached mine a little different.
That’s a pretty incredible combination. I looked into the Boss heads while I still had my 429, but got sticker shock and then started doing the math for all the other components. It is surprising though that more aren’t on the street considering the current trend of putting mod motors (coyote and Godzilla stuff) in darn near everything. They’re expensive, complicated, and bigger than most standard pushrod OHV set ups.
I was thinking back to what the guy that built my engine told me; all forged parts on the bottom so WHEN I was ready for a supercharger or turbo I could. I thought he was kidding, but now every once in a while it pops into my head.
Originally I had wanted to build a turbo 300 with 8-10psi to make 400-500. He convinced me to go with a 428 with a roller valve train that’ll make that NA. It scoots pretty good for 6500# with 3.54 gears, but I start thinking about not just keeping up with the flow. Probably wouldn’t help my economy much either.
Anyway, looking forward to seeing your build process. I’m already super impressed, jealous, and wishing I’d approached mine a little different.
Well I get the cost of the heads. The new bare heads from John Kaase cost $3800. Then add the $3200 for a set of custom made T&D Steel rocker arms since the aluminum ones were not recommended for daily street driving. Plus the 2.300" Severe Duty Manley Intake Valves and the 1.900" Manley Severe Duty Exhaust Valves is over $7500 alone and I still need to get the valve springs with locks and retainers and then pay my engine guy to assemble everything. I expect to have about $10k in just the heads but since this is my last build I want the best stuff I can afford. Not to forget the $800 for a pair of new Powder Coated Valve Covers also from Kaase! That is why I expect this build to take me about 2 more years to finish. One day at a time but since I don't make a lot of money I work 60-70 hours a week to support this hobby so I feel like I am earning this build after my cheating ex-wife took me to the cleaners and this is my happy place now! Hopefully I have enough tomorrows to get this done!
Last edited by mustangman7; Jun 5, 2026 at 10:02 AM.
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