Congratulations, that is awesome!! For my .02 cents worth, unless you are aiming for as much originality as possible, I would go for the upgrade and invest in a 5 speed, as it just seems logical, and if set up with some taller final ratio gears, it will make cruising more enjoyable and in theory, improve your fuel mileage. Then again, I don't know how hard it will be to find the appropriate five speed to bolt onto the back. Hope someone else's two cents are worth more than mine, but at least that is my first thought after reading your post.

Congrats again, and keep us posted on your progress.

 

I believe the 240 and 300 are identical blocks, the 300 was used in F 350 and F500-F 600s. Original front motor mounts to these trucks could be used or slightly modified. There might be aftermarket motor mounts available also. An overdrive is an excellent idea on a vehicle with a 4.88 axle, however be prepared for some fab work to the trans mounts and clutch linkages.

 

Thanks, Yep, I am trying to get the five speed, I want everything else to look fairly original, but I want a dependable ride. It will get original plates, so that limits me to March 1 to October 1, if I remember correctly. I will only use recreational high octane gas, so I can keep the garbage ethonal out. It has been a challenge to get it finished since I had some health issues earlier this year. I will just keep plugging along.

 

Well, sorry to hear about the health issues, but most of us are either feeling our age, or unfortunately dealing with things that are more challenging and or difficult, I pray yours are not the later. Looking forward to your next posts, and to see how your ride is coming along.

 

If you look at all the fake patina on my truck, What is the best way to remove it. I hate the stuff someone spray or painted on my truck and the finish underneath looks great when some polishing compound is applied. Please help, I do not want to paint it, just get it back to something decent. In the second photo that is not a dent, it is so shiny it is a reflection of something in my shop

 

ok, here is what I have next for a question I have a 240 inline six I am putting in and I have a five speed manual I think I am going to purchase. I read somewhere you need to replace the transmission mount. What kind of trans mount do I need to get. Maybe I already have the answer, but it would be great to find it here too

 

Maybe try some baking soda mixed with water, or I use the 3M Body Scrub also... might help take whatever TF that is on there off, or diesel, gas or naptha, try it on a non conspicuous area first

 

Years ago, a friend bought an army truck at auction that had been painted white "for winter operations". He sprayed it with purplepower, let it soak a bit and pressure washed it all off to army green. simple green is also a strong stripper. I've also heard of using oven cleaner. Experiment with small areas as you go. good luck, let us know the results

 

Well, I have to agree with those who have already chimed in. I also suspect that nobody tried to give it a fake patina, I suspect someone just gave it a bad paint job, without first prepping the truck properly before applying the new color. So for my two cents, I would

One, do you self a favour and take off your trim, as it will allow you to work those areas too, and it should not be that hard.

Also, different paints react to different thinning agents. IF you are lucky, you might find that the original finish is harder and might not react to the thinning agent you apply to remove the newer paint. What speaks for this, is that the new paint has not bonded well to the old surface. Most finishes I spray on as a cabinet maker (not done much with auto finish so take everything I write with a grain of salt) bond because the new layer actually melts slightly the old layer, this is only true when the chemical formula of the two layers share some common chemistry. I have mistakenly tried to top coat some older pieces, and even with light sanding, to achieve a better bonding, the new clear coat or color, didn't bond and then the top surface began to peal. In my case that can be solved by using a good primer, but then that means I can't just clear coat something I have to add color.

I suspect that you have a lot of elbow grease needed to get this back to only the original color, and you will likely take some of that color off as well as you work to remove the top layer, but the end result will likely be the original color with a nice patia, and then I would definitely do something to seal and prevent further rust and what not. Someone else can probably chime in with what they used, and I too would be interested as I am years away from wanting to respray my own truck, but want to slow down any further deterioration and for now, preserve the patia too.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

1. I have a pair of the fender bolt access covers. I also have only one side. I need to find out which side I do have but they are for sale.. What side is it that you need?

 

Right side.

 

Thank you for the information. The brown does come off and the paint underneath is pretty hard. There are a number of places where the brown paint is flaking and none of the turquoise paint has, though there are some rust spits hear and there.

 

Acetone and a lot of rags will do it. I've done this on a few cars and trucks and it works really well and is no abrasive. Assuming that is original turquoise paint under the brown, the brown will come right off and the original paint will remain. Wear gloves and have a good mask (if you can smell acetone with the mask on, it is not a good mask).

 

Here’s an example of how the acetone worked on my front fender before I did the rest of the truck many years ago. Before the acetone, it looked similar to the resprayed red (and primer) on the door. To be fair that panel was the only one that wasn’t original paint on the whole truck, but it must have been replaced way back in the day.

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i have the right side, i just checked my notes,
let me find it today and send picts to you