When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
#1 I bet that is the freeze plug/knock out plug leaking (behind the starter).
#4 well since that (calpier support key) is pretty much toast. You can carefully cut the 90* bend end off the out board side of the caliper support spring and drive what is left of the key out, WITH the support spring. All those parts come in a kit. Think air hammer/air impact with a chisel tip. If I had to cut the complete end off a caliper, to get it off I would.
Looks like the support key stop bolt is broke off in the caliper mount bracket. So that is a remove and retap item, that must be done very well. Mess up the caliper all you want, but do NOT mess up the caliper mount bracket. Can be a HARD to find a replacement item some times.
#1 I bet that is the freeze plug/knock out plug leaking (behind the starter).
#4 well since that (calpier support key) is pretty much toast. You can carefully cut the 90* bend end off the out board side of the caliper support spring and drive what is left of the key out, WITH the support spring. All those parts come in a kit. Think air hammer/air impact with a chisel tip. If I had to cut the complete end off a caliper, to get it off I would.
Looks like the support key stop bolt is broke off in the caliper mount bracket. So that is a remove and retap item, that must be done very well. Mess up the caliper all you want, but do NOT mess up the caliper mount bracket. Can be a HARD to find a replacement item some times.
Thanks, yeah it is seized, and I tried to make sure not to damage the caliber mount bracket. I may resort to just cutting the end of the caliper off to play it safe. will have to try and get the key bolt out with an easy out, or likely punch the center, drill and retap it. Thanks.
Yea if you are going to cut the caliper with a grinder, wear eye/face and ear pro for sure. And that is a very small hole and a very small bolt piece (diametor wise) to try and center drill and then easy out. Better make dang sure you use a quality center punch, drill bit and easy out. And same for the tap. You might try and cut some of the red lines like relief cuts, to see if it will take the pressure off and loosen up things. And again X2 do not cut into any of the caliper mount bracket part # 3105/3106. Looks like the outer corner already has some wack a mole marks.
So the air hammer helped and was able to finally beat it free. Drilled the broken bolt and got the extractor in....only for it to break off...
Now I'm in a real predicament because I don't have any bits that can drill out the broken off hardened steel. Going to try and find a cobalt or carbide bit that will be able to drill out the broken hardened steel from the extractor tomorrow.
Also, dust shields are completely toast along with brake pads and rotors. Ordered all new along with shocks since im this far into this mess. No one seems to have dust shields, so just going to have to reassemble without.
Not shielding anything at this point A small win... followed by a big loss...
Since you’re already in the market, I recommend getting a left hand drill bit when you attempt that. You might get lucky and have some of it unthread while you’re drilling.
That's why I mentioned earlier quality drill bits, easy outs and taps. If you can't find good stuff to use, you might have to bite the bullet, take it off, and take it to a machine shop.
That way you can put new ball joints in it or kingpin since it's two-wheel drive. Sorry for your loss and for the breakage.
As far as the dust shields go, I've run my F150 4WD for 30+ years without them. I used t0 drive it year round, snow, rain, mudding & so on. Never had any issue due to no dust shields.
Easy outs should be banned, they break off far more than they work. I'll never use one for anything, ever.
Might consider drilling and tapping a new hole to match the other end of the caliper retainer?? Just verify it will clear your wheel ok.
Agree, I tossed the dust shields on every dent I've owned.
I have had more trouble than sucess with easy-outs, those failures ultimately wind up at the machine shop
this is likely the route I’m going to take. Didnt want to, but after carbide die cutters don’t seem to want to chip out the broken extractor, it seems like the best viable option. Thanks
Was able to get the backing plate cleaned up and coated with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Was going to take the whole backing plate off and sandblast it, but I have to stop somewhere since this is just going to be a beater patina truck after all.
Most of the new brake parts and shocks have come in, just waiting on a few more parts from Rock Auto so I can get this thing back together and do a test drive in the next couple weeks to see what else it might need beside front cab mounts and floors. wire wheel and degreased taped off wear surfaces coated in rust encapsulator
Stopped by and picked up some used 255/85/16 tires for $300 on my way home Friday (less than 1 new one). They are probably 15 years old, but still in great condition compared to the dry rotted ones that came with the truck. Sounds like I may have trouble finding someone to install them though due to their age...
Was able to get both drums rebuilt and took the drums over to O'Rileys and have them turned for $25 each. Not too many places left that will still turn drums and rotors. Sandblasted them a bit just to clean them up and will coat with rust encapsulator.
Pulled the seals and inspected all of the wheel bearings. They are all Timken and appear to be in good shape, so I will repack them and just get new seals. The guy I purchased the truck from thought one of the rear wheel bearings was seized. It appears that it was the parking break cables that were locked up and rusted which was the cause of the heat and lack of movement in the rear. Going to have to replace both rear end cable sections as they are rusted in poor shape. Used tires for a gently used 53 year old truck saved the drums rebuilt drums waiting on hub seals to finish up
Last edited by DHDeichmann; May 17, 2026 at 09:20 PM.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
