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On ford cars of this era power and manual brake pedals have a different pedal to pivot point ratios so that the ratio is lower for a power brake car and larger for a manual brake car this was usually handled by different distances from petal tip to pivot point. Is it possible light trucks used a different pedal support for power vs manual brakes ?
Not sure of the reason for the different pivot points, but I do know that the 67's were a 1 off. New body design and several changes from the '66. Then they went and changed a bunch of stuff for the '68 model year. I think this bracket is an example of one of those little changes.
I have settled on a solution for my hydraulic clutch. I'm going to make a bracket like the one shown below (not mine) and mount the MC on the firewall.
This bracket will be welded onto the left side of my clutch pedal. I'll have to wait for my cab, so I can get fitment correct and get my MC in the right place.
That will work. Just add a backing plate to stiffen the firewall up.
Exactly what I was thinking. As a matter of fact, that picture came from an article on Hotrod.com, unfortunately the article is very old and was missing all the text that goes along with the pictures. The series of pics did show a backing plate however.
Just got word today that my cab is finished at the blaster. Unfortunately, the weather here is so bad, I may not be able to pick it up until later this week. In the meantime, here's a picture of my refurbished pedal assembly.
I bought a kit from a company called Mustang Steve. Nice components and quality pieces. You weld on some bearing support rings and then the whole thing is supported in bearings instead of those worthless plastic bushings.
Ball bearings will never wear out in that application. You could have replaced the plastic with a bronze bushing. With mine being auto the original plastic bushing is still in good working shape. I know from past experience the clutch one takes the beating.
Got a break in the weather yesterday, so I was able to pick up my cab, hood and radiator support from the blaster. What an eye opener. There are a lot of holes that I did not expect and couldn't see before.
Some of these are expected, like the floor pans, but the hood edges are pinholed and there's a lot of pinholes on the back wall of the cab.
I just replaced my radiator support when I started working on mine. Battery acid had done a number on it, and the bottom seam area like yours. At least this part is being reproduced.
Those solo holes if not bad around it, just use a copper backing and weld it up, Grind it smooth.
Did you use a Metal Prep on the raw panels to prevent it from rusting.? Where I'm at the next day will have surface rust on it if I don't protect it.
They blasted and primed it the same day, so no rust.
Those solo holes are weird. First of all, they rusted from the inside of the cab, not the outside. Second, there is pitting around that whole area, so I'm afraid that I'm going to do some major patching. I gave serious consideration to finding a different cab and hood, but I think most of them are like this now.
Ok, it's been some time since I updated this thread. I've got a little more time to dedicate to it, so I'll hopefully be posting more here.
Since getting this cab back from blasting, I've found all kinds of holes in it. These are just 2 spots I've concentrated on right now. The cab is sitting on its back, just so you have perspective.
I also patched this little spot just above where the new floor pan metal stops.
I need to finish it off, but at least it's patched.
This is going to be very much like the old saying: How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. It gets a little overwhelming at times, but if I concentrate on small areas, it's not so bad.
