Ive only found it in aerosol. approximately 12-14 aerosols equal 1 gallon.

How I get the paint out is to use a WD40 top with the straw, pop it on the rustoleum can and spray it into an empty gallon paint bucket.
Its a lot of work, but it works good. This way I can add the hardener to it and spray it thru my gun.

 

Definitely was a productive weekend working in the F100. I got the cab fully painted, and I think it turned out OK. Definitely a new experience trying to paint the cowl with the hood hinges still on. The blue paint didn't seem to lay down as good as it did on the doors I did last week.
I also got all of the door latches and wing windows cleaned up and ready for reassembly with all new Precision rubber.

I wasn't sure how to transition the white and blue behind the cab. It won't be seen by anyone anyway, but I think this looks decent

Also wasn't sure how to transition white to blue at the door jambs, but I'm happy with how this worked out despite some white over spray getting thru my masking .


Overall I'm happy with how it turned out. Definitely could be better, but for my first time I'll take it.

 

Looks pretty good from here, and I’ll be thrilled if mine turns out that well.

Gonna look great when your done.

 

That is looking good, that color is interesting. Can't wait to see it all done and back together.

 

Looks great

 

I'm very impressed! What kind of respirator system did you use? That's the main thing that worries me about painting mine

 

[QUOTE=idealtrucks;21783661]I'm very impressed! What kind of respirator system did you use? That's the main thing that worries me about painting mine[/QUOTE
The respirator I purchased off of Amazon. I just read to make sure it had the little 3M doohickeys on the side for organic compounds. It was cheap and has held up good. Think I paid $25 for it.

 

You have quite a project there, but looks like you have the skills. One thing I'd have reversed is that rear driveshaft. Usually slip joints are placed closer to the transmission or transfer case or carrier bearing support. If placed at the axle end of the shaft, the very movement or pounding it will see moving with the axle over bumps, rumble strips, pot holes, etc imparts a jolt to the splines that they don't see up at the other end where things ride softer. I don't know if makes sense how I said it, just looks like will tend to increase spline wear.

When I put a new TG on as we painted my '77 in 2022, my painter guy kidded me about fixing an old beat up TG on and hiding my new in box original FOMOCO TG that had never seen daylight until the day before when I cut the straps. He said that he could get 1,000 for it, I laughed. I paid 125 in 1992 after local dealer cleaning out the parts dept found it behind a rack. I looked it up on line then, he was "just close". He likely was talking about if taken to Gatlinburg or up north.



I offered to sell him the cardboard and straps. We were just funning.

Anyway, will enjoy following along ............
I have a 31x10.5R15 on a 5.5 or 6 inch wheel .... just as a spare.

 

Hey Tbear, I never thought about the driveshaft, but what you are saying does make some sense. I just put it back on how it came off. The front driveshaft is how you describe, it does need work/replaced soon as the slip joint has some slop in it.

You got a steal on that original tailgate. I ended up buying an aftermarket one off ebay. I got it last week. Its definitely not as beefy as the original, but honestly it is better than I expected after I read some reviews about them. but for the $ its was worth it.

On the tires, Im still trying to decide what Im going to get. Id like to get 31s and want something beefy like a MT but I also want it to ride decent and not being crazy loud on the highway. I will probably go with an AT. I have Cooper ATs on my F150 and I love them.

 

Now hold on tbear on the driveshafts. My 75 F250 had the slip yokes at the transfer case, so thats how I did it putting it back together. When I went to do the ujoints on my 78 bronco (similiar running gear to the F150), the slip yokes were at the axles. So I did some looking and found the diagram showing the slip yoke to be at the axles and the double cardan CV at the transfer case. SO I think that is correct the correct way. Jamie, do you have the CV joints on your shafts?

Also, the paint is looking good!

 

Nutter
I love your name BTW
I do not have the CV joints.

 

Oh, I was just saying how I'd have done it & why so.

I don't doubt that you'll find them both ways, even if the factory put them just one way 45-50 years ago. I can hold my pointing finger out, then wag it and see how the nail end moves a lot more than the fatter part nearest my palm / knuckle area. My '77 came to me in 1986 as a one owner who had been terminally ill, through a used car dealer who bought it at an estate sale, 35K miles, I expect it had been unaltered setting in the trees as it did for so long. Interestingly, my '77's front drive shaft does not have the double cardan joint, but it has a slip joint at the TC end of it.

Yeah, don't I know it. I was already planning the next redo, but had just had it painted in 1989. I was there to pick up my new bed sides and two doors I was getting at paint shop owners discount, he had ordered them. I figured spreading it out a few years would reduce the sting later, had no idea of a TG, but parts man brought it up, that it was found, almost hidden like in a corner. How could I not take it?

About those tires, I've run some 31s on 7" wheels that were on the truck when I bought it, but over the years and swaps, they got away. Seems to me was a fellow on here running 31s on stock wheels, but maybe I'm wrong. I think my spare on that old stock wheel would work short spell to get me home, but narrow wheels often make for squirrely drives.
Anyway, been running 8" wheels of some sort for 25-30 years or more and pretty satisfied with these highway tread 31X10.50-15s


You can paint. I found out "me not so good" but then we used to get good jobs for under $500 up as late as 1989, and that included wheels and shell. I found out in later years, those days were long gone.

 

I would bet Ford put them either way depending on the model or the years.