You have shared your soldering technique and have good points. But I still want to ask why you choose to do so in addition on a crimp terminal?
Do you clean the flux off? Can you share what type/brand you use, as there are many variations.

I used to solder and heatshrink wires. I found that the solder I used back then (general electronic type acid core) corrodes over time if not cleaned. Can't see it under the shrink. So I went crimps like the auto manufacturers.

If solder something now I use Kester 44 Solder Wire, 63/37 0.031”, RMA Rosin and clean it with alcohol.

 

The thing with crimp terminals they have to be compressed together with enough force to cause a cold fusion joint, to prevent moisture from penetrating the joint. Very difficult to do unless your using commercial crimpers with everything set right. I do not preclean terminals, the rosin will do that. I prefer the Ni plated (marine) terminals for connectors exposed to the elements. Copper works but it will oxidize over time, Now a poor crimp will work for some time till the corrosion causes a problem. I built equipment for off shore and field work and corrosion in a joint kills you. The 63/37 is the best solder to use, that's what I use. You apply heat to the back or trailing edge of what your working on. Once the temp get right the solder will melt and wix down the wire/connector. Adding to much solder and it goes up the wire make it hard and brittle. Best to be under on the solder so it does not go up the wire. Applying solder to your heat source is not the correct way to solder. It a good way to get cold joints.

 

Blue, that is a fantastic write up and is how I was taught as well. To finish off that I use a coated heat shrink tubing everywhere weather can impact my connectors.

 

Thanks for sharing.
Production grade crimpers are $$$$$. Some have certs and need calibration.

 

I know, I have several. The most resent one was for the Deutsch barrel connectors. But it's super easy and fool proof if you select your wire size correctly. 4 way crimp holds the wire good, wire tensile breaks if over loaded. I have pin gauges so I can check and adj if I need too.

 

The solder eliminates the need for a sealant, But the sealant does dress up the connector. I use shrink tubing too.

 

I like the shrink tubing with the sealant to keep water from wicking up the wire.

 

My Vintage Air unit came in so I get to start mock-up.

Which brings up what's the best insulation/sound deadening material for the cab?


Vintage Air Evaporator unit, aka complete kit.
Vintage Air says a max thickness of 6mm behind the unit. Now I have already decided I will be adding the Second Skin Mega Block to the firewall (under hood).
Now there are a lot of different stuff on the market these days. Google search brings up 10+ choices.
Resonix,
Kilmat,
Noico Air Born noise,
SoundsKing,
B-Quite, Is what I'm thinking about using under the hood.
Luxury Liner Pro,
Hush Mat,
Campus,
Second Skin,
Restomod.
Vintage Air all sell some type of insulation.

I want a closed cell insulation with a sound deadening membrane all in one. Will be doing the complete cab, any and all surfaces I can get too.
Have anyone used any of these or have a recommendation? I only need the thinner (<6mm) mat behind the evap unit. I want the inside of this truck to be quite as I can possible get it. Knowing, due to door seal design I will/may have some wind noise.

 

I used Kilmat and my only regret was not using more of it.

I recommend it for sure.

 

I bought 2 boxes of RestomodAir Membrane 8mm when they had a BOGO sale. It has sound deadening and insulation. I will buy a couple of more boxes of the thinner membrane if it goes on sale again.

 

I used Kilmat and had good results. There are different thicknesses. Some places I use two layers.

 

Have the bulk head connector on the drivers side done, have 4 spare pins of the 29.



Wires coming out of or into frame rails.

Pinning out, filling up. Ended up with 4 spares of the 29.

Process of pinning out the plug back side

Bulkhead connector to firewall position. Still need to final wrap the loom once finalized.

I don't have enough room for a connector on the passenger side. So will have to have multiple connectors instead of 1. Besides I need 33 pins (to pass all) with large gauge feeder for fuse block (2- #10), 2 #8 (Air compressor, E-Brake). Going to be running covers so all will be covered once finished.

Forgot that I have the ac condenser mounted.


Vintage Air AC condenser coil mounted.

 

Super clean as always.

 

Still messing with the wiring harness ...... Was trying to figure out how the wiper/washer switch was factory wired to interface into the Painless I'm using. Found out that my color coded wires was not matching the schematic. Come to find out that I have some older 67 color does mixed in with mine, odd. All the connectors align up so everything worked like it was all 68 from day 1.

Added a few more connectors so the radiator support can be removed without disconnecting all the individual component.


Deutsch connector for radiator support removal,

Then Painless wiring harness calls for 2 # 10's to be run through the ignition switch. So I piggy backed the wires to the connector and soldered to give it more surface area. I just hope the old witch can handle the current.

New fuse panel requires 2 10ga wires to feed so I piggybacked the 10's.

Starting on the lights soon.

The main problem I'm dealing with is the original FW penetration has limited clearance around it to accept a larger hole for the bulk head connectors. May just pig tail the wires like the factory originally did with connectors under the hood. Doing it that way I need to use 3-4 HD connectors for buss feeders. There is going to be a cover over the inner finder. hiding the buss fuses and circuit breakers anyway.

It's these little details that eat up time.

 

Awesome work (as usual). I have used all of the major brands of sound deadening material out there. The best I have found is Restomod Membrane. It is for both sound and temperature and does a great job.