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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

My 81 F100 Project

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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 08:46 PM
  #511  
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Originally Posted by 2000duallydiesel
That's cool. Shifting many gears!
When I pull the trailer I only use the 6 gears out of 8 forward gears. Not worth splitting granny and I dont use over drive as I am doing 55 MPH and the RPM would be way to low.
Originally Posted by 2000duallydiesel
My buddy snapped these pictures yesterday. Truck in action!

Is that a frame mounted hitch that hangs that low?
When I first installed mine, it stuck up too far from the bumper and had to change the brackets around to get it to tuck in closer, but it does not sit low.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 3, 2026 | 09:28 PM
  #512  
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Originally Posted by 2000duallydiesel
My buddy snapped these pictures yesterday. Truck in action!


 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 03:07 AM
  #513  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
When I pull the trailer I only use the 6 gears out of 8 forward gears. Not worth splitting granny and I dont use over drive as I am doing 55 MPH and the RPM would be way to low.

Is that a frame mounted hitch that hangs that low?
When I first installed mine, it stuck up too far from the bumper and had to change the brackets around to get it to tuck in closer, but it does not sit low.
Dave ----
Yes, it's frame mounted. It is a Curt model number 15300. Ordered from Etrailer. I also thought it sat a little low but it is a beefy hitch. It has the cross bar even with the hitch hole instead of above the hitch hole.

Curt 15300
Curt 15300
 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 08:55 AM
  #514  
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Mine is a Reese universal, fits Dodge / Ford / chevy, I picked up off CL NIB.
The cross bar bolts to the side plates but otherwise looks like yours just does not hang as low.
I would be worried it would get hung up on something and get the truck stuck being that low.

I dont have a good side picture but from the back it looks low only because the bumper is higher on the flare sides than the step bumpers on the style sides that hang lower.

Link to a larger picture 20200101 140241
I used a Tee between the rail harness the tail light harness, Etrailer has them, for the trailer lights and ran 10ga wire for the trailer brakes and power to the trailer to recharge the battery like travel trailers have and the club trailer for the power lift to get the ball hooked up.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 09:05 AM
  #515  
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I got mine from a junkyard about 15 years ago.


 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 09:28 AM
  #516  
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Yours is tucked up close to the step bumper like mine would be if I had a step bumper.
His is hanging a lot lower than the step bumper wonder why?
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 4, 2026 | 09:50 AM
  #517  
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I have to think his is more of a universal for fords...?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 04:40 AM
  #518  
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Originally Posted by 2000duallydiesel
What intake/carb are you running?

I did another haul yesterday and she pulls good from 1500rpm and up. Still have alot more trips left.

Bone stock. And really the truck sat for years, and im still working all the bugs out. China carb replaced dirty/stuck stock one, worked OK, but not great. Im rebuilding the stock one now. Still have to mess with timing.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 07:01 AM
  #519  
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I found the Carter YF China knock off was way too lean at cruise but only because I have a AFR gauge in my truck.
After you have a few miles on it pull the plugs and see what they look like.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 12:52 PM
  #520  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I found the Carter YF China knock off was way too lean at cruise but only because I have a AFR gauge in my truck.
After you have a few miles on it pull the plugs and see what they look like.
Dave ----
Thats my guess also. Anything over half throttle it just boggs out. Idles, and low inputs its fine.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 01:26 PM
  #521  
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Originally Posted by s1120
Thats my guess also. Anything over half throttle it just boggs out. Idles, and low inputs its fine.
You can fatten up (richen) the high speed side in the YF carb and you really dont need to take them apart.
If you pull off the air filter and gasket you should see a knockout plug. If you remove that straight down from there is the screw that adjusts the needle.
Now it will need to be pretty thin and long tool to get in the hole and reach the screw. IIRC the factory screw was a small Torx head and the knock off was a flat blade.
Both are fun to try and get the screw drivers on to turn the screw through the hole. I think you turn it clockwise to raise the needle to pull it out of the jet.

IF you pop the top off the carb you will see the screw & needle and what type of screw driver it takes to turn it.
It also may not be a bad thing to pop the top to see what the bowl looks like and clean out the dirt.

I dont remember driving it much when it was that lean as I had the AFR gauge with the old carb and in trying to find a miss under load I changed the carb because I had it.
The miss was a bad spark plug
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 02:53 PM
  #522  
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Dave, are you sure clockwise opens the needle? Most I have worked with close clockwise and open counter-clockwise.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2026 | 04:07 PM
  #523  
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Originally Posted by BigBlue2
Dave, are you sure clockwise opens the needle? Most I have worked with close clockwise and open counter-clockwise.
You might be thinking of the idle mixture screws. Most carbs use jets that you change, larger to richen, smaller to lean it out. You have to take the carb apart to change jets.

This carb still has an idle mixture screw that works the same as other carbs. But instead of a jet you change the Cater YF has a needle and seat.
This needle moves up & down with the throttle making rich & lean. You can adjust this needle, the seat is screwed into the floor of the float bowl, with the screw up & down as a fine tuning tool.
I am pretty sure if you turn it clockwise it will raise the needle making it richer. IIRC I had to turn it a lot to make a change on the gauge.

Again this is for cruising / high speed in for idle, that is done with the mixture screw on the outside of the carb, so after you make a change to the needle / seat you have to drive it to see if it was a good or bad change.
I will see if I can get a picture as I was given some feed back carbs and they should be the same adjustments.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 6, 2026 | 04:26 AM
  #524  
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Well the stock carb is on the workbench at work. All taken apart and ran through the ultrasound. It was all stuck and frozen inside, with a fair amount of rust/dirt in it. After I rebuild it the china one will go on the shelf for a future project. For the cost, and the ease of getting the truck up and running last year for the first time in MANY years, it was worth it. bit ill be happy to go back to the OE ford one.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2026 | 06:37 AM
  #525  
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If you still have the carb apart you can see the plug on the carb top filter ring that needs to be removed to get to the needle screw.
Also you can see the screw for the needle and what tool it would take to adjust it if needed.

My OEM carb had meat hands on it. It was missing parts and screws and some screws were wood screws
I was able to rebuild it with parts I had around the shop but there was 1 little part for the needle that I did not have and why at time it ran way rich.
Otherwise it worked great and would use it in a hart beat if need be.
Also being lazy I did not want to swap the OEM back on. I was given other carbs so I can get the missing part from one of them, they are junk feedback carbs.
Dave ----
 
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