1970 Highboy Upgrades and Restomod
I was pulling up to a stop sign on the summit and the efi was doing efi things and it died. I went to start it and nothing. I had no power to the cab.
I tried jumping it by rolling it down the hill and letting the clutch out but nothing.
it seemed like I wasn’t getting power to the cab.
I went and checked the battery brain and it seemed like it was working. Just in case I unhooked it and when I did it seemed like the starter solenoid rod on the positive side spun some.
I hooked the battery to the solenoid and it got it to crank.
I think either the ignition switch is bad or the starter solenoid. I found some new old stock ones and ordered them.
the starter is original and at one point I was going to replace it at one point but didn’t. It definitely feels like it has some dead spots in it and with the solenoid being original as well it’s just hard to tell.
Before this mess I was tuning in my way home and found that my timing needed retarded and I did that. I need to recurve the distributor to bring the total timing back some.
it’s always something
I did the same searches you did for the cab bushings and it seems the Prothane versions are the only option if you want a quality bushing. After finishing your build, how do you find the ride quality? Any complaints?
I did the same searches you did for the cab bushings and it seems the Prothane versions are the only option if you want a quality bushing. After finishing your build, how do you find the ride quality? Any complaints?
yea it was difficult. I definitely was loosing interest along the way and at times felt like not finishing. It was a much bigger and more expensive process than I anticipated but I don’t know why i thought that because I always go to the extreme with stuff haha.
Wheb it comes to ride quality im not sure I can tell any kind of ride quality difference as it has leaf springs front and rear and just rides like a buckboard wagon overall.
I will say that I had to cut the front cab mounts down considerably in order to get body alignment right.
I had to use a lot of shims as well.
I wish i would have taken my frame to a frame shop to have it checked for twist and get it fixed as it definitely has a twist in it from what I guess being stuck in the mud or snow and then having a chain wrapped to the front cross member and jerked on.
It was my first frame off. Can’t get everything right the first time.
I decided I wanted a receiver hitch for the truck and went digging through the junkyard to try and find one.
This truck has a frame width of 34 inches so I was going to try and find one off of a cab and chassis truck or just get one off of a 80+ truck and cut it down.
I ended up looking under a late 70’s half ton Chevy truck that was in a stack of trucks and it happened to be the exact fit I needed.
I mocked it up, drilled some holes and slapped it on.
I don’t plan on doing any insane towing but it will be nice to have the receiver for a myriad of reasons.
yea it was difficult. I definitely was loosing interest along the way and at times felt like not finishing. It was a much bigger and more expensive process than I anticipated but I don’t know why i thought that because I always go to the extreme with stuff haha.
Wheb it comes to ride quality im not sure I can tell any kind of ride quality difference as it has leaf springs front and rear and just rides like a buckboard wagon overall.
I will say that I had to cut the front cab mounts down considerably in order to get body alignment right.
I had to use a lot of shims as well.
I wish i would have taken my frame to a frame shop to have it checked for twist and get it fixed as it definitely has a twist in it from what I guess being stuck in the mud or snow and then having a chain wrapped to the front cross member and jerked on.
It was my first frame off. Can’t get everything right the first time.
Interesting about your cab mounts. I'm getting my truck in the final stages of being done, and I had to use a lot of shims on the PS core support mount to get the front fender parallel with the cowl. That makes the bumper gap uneven from left to right. I think I could make the PS front cab mount thinner to bring the front down and remove some shims from the PS core support. Curious if that is the same process you went through? Would dropping the front PS lift the DS rear of the cab?
Thanks
When I had the cab mounts on themselves the front of the cab was way too high so none of the body lines matched. In order to fix that I had to have inches of shims on the core support.
I couldn’t shim the back of the cab otherwise it would have been higher than the bed.
I shaved the front body mounts down to where I think they were roughly an inch. At that point the bed and tha cab matched as close as I could.
I then had to still shim the core support but it wasn’t as bad.
The driver side core support for mine had more shims than the opposite and I had to shim various other spots to make everything somewhat line up.
I tried to base the base the body lines off the bed since it went straight to the bed.
with everything as it was it’s all within a 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch.
I was a loon about it as I felt like it’s something I would always notice and be the first thing everyone else would as well.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Yes my cab does sit high in the back as well and I was thinking of shimming it up to meet the cab. The prothane bushings are just too think I'm guessing. Instead, I'm going to start shaving cab mounts like you did. Your truck looks nice. Did you fix the rear intake leak?
I dont think my frame is twisted, but the factory mounts did have shims on it.
I fixed it once but not as of my last post. It is still seeping. I just got all the gaskets and stuff ordered in to do it. My shop is heated by wood and I think I’m going to wait till it’s warmer to do it.
I put lighter springs on so it appears that my timing will be all in around 2100 which is good and should help me pull my 5th gear a bit easier.
I installed a brake controller and 7 pin plug for pulling the camper and or whatever trailer.
I think it fit in nicely
I shortened the gap here so that I only had 20 degrees of advance rather than 32 degrees.
I think with having the timing able to come
in earlier really helped.
So far initial impressions are good.
Im going to have to put traction bars on this thing.
Not that you or anyone was asking but I found the best way to remove those old seals is with a mallet that fits in the hole. A normal seal remover does not work.










