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Now the plastic ducting to the front radiator support is a different story and can be harder to come by but check with the seller of the filter to see what they have.
The flex tubing I use is for a Jeep. It is a little too long but does the job.
I ran into a little trouble trying the Jeep duct, so be careful. This duct is rectangular in cross section. On my 351W, the duct takes a 1/4 twist. At the air cleaner it's horizontal, and vertical at the front by the radiator. I think the 300-6 is the same way. The Jeep version of the duct was too rigid to make this twist. It bent around the corner just fine (like an accordion) but would not twist. I tried two different manufacturers and even though the part appeared different, the result was the same. I ended up keeping the stock hose even though it was a little threadbare in spots.
Since the tailgate is now front and center, I decided to start from the back and work forward, which, by default, leaves the engine for last...nice plan eh?
The parking brake bar? has Bendix 316274 stamped on it. I believe it is common to, at least, Ford 9" rear ends with 11" brakes. I need one badly. Then we do an axle seal(ugh), pinion seal, u-joints, and installation of a new limited slip clutch pack. Top it off with a new rear brake hose. I'm going to drop the rear end out of the truck to do all this, since this stuff is heavy and I don't fancy working under the truck at my age. It's only disconnecting the parking brake cables and the brake hose which is replaced anyway. I already have the u-bolt nuts broken loose.
It is going to be quite the job getting the whole rear end out, and then finding a place to lift it up to work on it. I would re-think that idea.
I ran into a little trouble trying the Jeep duct, so be careful. This duct is rectangular in cross section. On my 351W, the duct takes a 1/4 twist. At the air cleaner it's horizontal, and vertical at the front by the radiator. I think the 300-6 is the same way. The Jeep version of the duct was too rigid to make this twist. It bent around the corner just fine (like an accordion) but would not twist. I tried two different manufacturers and even though the part appeared different, the result was the same. I ended up keeping the stock hose even though it was a little threadbare in spots.
You have to remember mine is a 300 straight six as was the Jeep 258 I got the hose from.
I would look into a Jeep V8 either a 304 or 360 in a CJ (304) or a Wagoneer (304 / 360) as it may have the right turns to work on a Ford pickup with a v8?
It has been so long since I worked on the Jeeps I cant remember if either model had the plastic at the radiator but think the Wagoneer would of had it.
Dave ----
First off. Will a 93-97 seat bolt in this truck? I found one nice for a reasonable price I will get if it fits. THX
Li' lazy today but did spend $260 on lumber and didn't get much, but better yet I fixed my tailgate.
The tailgate was rough and many welds had failed. It had about a 2" bend from straight which needed to be addressed. So I rigged up some junk steel I had and welded some 1/4-20 bolts (carriage bolts are best) across the bottom where the bend was the most severe. The proceeded to pull it straight. I would have bet against this Rube Goldberg approach, but dang if it didn't work, and work well! I ended up doing the same across the top and then down the middle. Once all that was closer, the loose sheet metal om the ends came right into place. Drilled a few holes, clamped things tight and had at it with the MIG. Very happy. This side was the worst
The gate looks good and with the patina you cant tell you welded it
My flare side gate does not have the rod or cable stops on the ends like yours and if dropped open hits the bumper and bends.
When I got it shipped from CA by my brother I had to fix it also.
My fix was to place it on 2x4's and stand on it to get back straight, worked great for me too.
Dave ----
Last edited by FuzzFace2; Feb 20, 2026 at 08:07 AM.
I found a seat(it's ugly as heck), came out of a 96, thanks to all who chimed in.
Adjusted the clutch so you don't have to push it through the firewall to shift, much better.
Ran compression test today and most all had 150 PSI a couple had 135 - 140, so no worries.
Since I had all the plugs out I cleaned them all and checked the resistance of the HEI distributor and wires and they are all over the map. I put it all back together for now - still misses, spark is weak. I've got the DS2 dizzy soaking in cleaner and after rebuild will go back in. I'm certain the carb has issues too, but I need to work one issue at a time.
Still looking for the parking brake "bar", IDK what the thing is called, they are not easy to find and are not included in brake hardware kits. I visited a friend of mine yesterday who twists wrenches for a living and he dumped a 5gal bucket FULL of brake hardware on the floor and said "go diggin." I came out with two! lol
Focus now shifts to the rear differential leaks which include the pinion and axle seal. No telling what else I'll find with this, but a new posi clutch pack is going in. Hopefully get at it the next couple days.
Found another vacuum leak, this is about the 37th vacuum leak I've fixed, and it runs a little better, now seemingly hits on all 6 and the idle quality is OK.
However, I have a question about my oil pressure light non-op, and the coolant gauge does not seem to do anything. Alt light works as it should, gas gauge reads full scale when powered up, but I found the sending unit wires dangling underneath, so I can sort that out (hopefully). My question is where is the coolant and oil PSI sender? It appears the oil sender is on drivers side towards the back of the block about oil filter level. It looks like a sender for a gauge, not a light. But I cannot find any wiring or a coolant temp sender, or for that matter where one would even go.
Being you said "hitting on all 6" this is a 300?
Oil sender would be on the left side (always when sitting in the drivers seat) of the block.
It is just rear and higher than the oil filter. Silver thing in the picture and that is for a oil PSI gauge.
The temp sender is a little harder to see and find as it is on the right side of the block to the rear almost across from the oil sender.
The manifolds kind of block it but it is there. If it is a gauge it would have the larger type sender like the oil IIRC.
If the fuel gauge it going full with just the key on and the sender disconnected there is a short in the sender wire from the tank to the gauge.
I would disconnect the frame rail harness from the main harness to see if the gauge still goes to full or not.
This plug is just under the brake booster if you have power brakes. You should see where the main harness comes out of the firewall and part of it goes down to the frame and you should see the plug there.
If you unplug and the gauge stays on empty the short is between that plug and the sender plug and you will need to look over every inch, may need to open up the harness, to find the short to ground.
If the gauge still goes to full with the frame harness disconnected you have a short between that plug and the gauge.
I think I would pull the cluster and give it a look over as the printed circuit maybe bad. Now would be a good time to replace the bulbs and the printed contacts for a good connection.
Also check where the harness plugs into the cluster as that could be where it is shorting out too.
On the temp & il if you short the wires to ground the gauge should move up like the fuel gauge or the light to come on.
BTW when you first turn the key on the warning lights should light up to show they are not burned out.
Dave ----
