Also if you go with an aftermarket upgrade look at the turn on RPMS along with the max amps.

The one I have now from a local rebuilder/manufacture turns on at 700 RPM. So I adjusted the idle to 725 rpms with the tuner. It now puts out 13.4 idling and 14.4 running down the road.

 

Not the alternator

 

That’s a pretty good divergence idle to run, hopefully it’s with lights and other things on.

 

So stalling out , stalling when turning the Stearing wheel, hmmm , ignition switch clock spring in the colom, does the key ever get hung up or hard to turn?, do you hear twisting sound in the colom? , the other thing would be like I mentioned earlier Test the Icpv connection for a short , pinch wiggle Test with engine running .ill see if I can post up what my short looked like on the pigtail

 

I can’t find my original picture that has white marks in between the 3 wires , but found the connection , this connection has a grey clip on it , most likely trying to take it off to look will fly into the land of unknown, don’t worry ,




It’s hard to see the white marks , so I went with a dark back ground , the wiggle Test or pinch these while Engine is running.

 

I'd be looking at a cam sensor then.. if it's not the alternator. We already ruled out the high pressure oil system, the icp sensor, and ipr. Unhooking the icp sensor will do the same thing 04badford was talking about, and we've already determined that doesn't fix it.

 

Definetly going to get a good look at this cam sensor. It hit me a couple of days ago that I've had a power steering leak on this for sometime, and if the fluid as found a way down to the cam sensor it may be affecting it.

I've fixed the leak once, comes from behind the hydroboost. Even replace the hydroboost and hoses but never really fixed it.

 

I'd put my money on you. Hope I'm wrong.

-Mike

 

I don't think there is a short in the column .. if there was wouldn't it happen everytime I turn the wheel? Even after its up to operating temp

 

If you had a short in the steering column, your instrument cluster fuse would blow, and your instrument cluster wouldn't work. The most common short in the column is the one for the tow/haul button. But either way that wouldn't stall the truck.

And the steering wheel doesn't have to be turned for it to stall either, because in your previous videos, putting it in gear stalled it too.

So, it's likely a cam sensor.

 

Cold soak start up it dips to 12.5 to 13.2 with lights on and defrost. 35 MPH it is at 13.7 to 14.0

At temp and idle it is 13.5

 

BTW has he verified VREF?

I don't recall seeing that anywhere.

 

That’s just the problem with wire shorts , Everything seems good until wires start adding Current then it acts up , it can be a total nightmare , seriously I think the best Advise here would be to get this truck hooked up diagnostic Test , you’ll get better results on cam/crank sensor , icp icpv ipr health, then it’s your choice to have them fix it or do it yourself .

 

He's already had this done thats why he made this thread "Even the Ford dealer doesn't know". I advised him to get Autoenginuity, but he understandably doesn't want to pay for it. Scanguage can check most everything except low level codes anyways. We have already checked IPR (and replaced IPR) and ICP and everything checks out.

He's clearly loosing sync, that's the only reasonable explanation. In fact in one of his videos you can see it looses sync then stalls. I can lead a horse to water but I can't force em to drink it. I am gonna insist it has something to do with sync (FICM sync, cam sensor, crank sensor, wiring to these sensors etc). However, being that it only happens cold (which would more than likely eliminate a FICM sync wiring problem), and he has a good tach signal when it stalls(which would eliminate a crank sensor), I would without a doubt replace that cam sensor and closely check the wiring.

That's my opinion, I could be wrong, and hope I'm wrong, cause then I'd learn something!

 

The horse is going to drink the water, just a matter of finding the time right now to do it, lol.

And Yes , the ford dealership did all the diagnostics and came up with nothing for $125.

I'm curious to take out the airbox and battery tray to look at that cam sensor to see if it might be loaded up with powersteering fluid. I'm also planning that if I'm gonna do all that I'll just replace it while I'm there. Check the harness as well.