I want to make sure before I take the wheel off. Is this the type that the axle has to be removed before you can remove the hub? 1986 f250 4wd 6.9l diesel auto transmission.

 

Yup, you'll need to pull the axle and remove the bearings.

 

That is a full-float rear axle assembly, You will always have to pull the axle to pull the hub on those type.

But if you just want to work on the brakes, some you have to pull the axle and hub just to work on the brakes, some you do not and can just pull the brake drum.

 

I just want to work on the brakes. How do I know the difference? I don't want to mess with the bearings unless necessary.

 

On my '84 F250HD, the drum and hub are essentially one unit. The wheel lugs are pressed so as to hold them together. Unless your '86 is different, you've got to remove the axleshaft and then undo the bearings to remove the hub/drum for access to the brakes.

Kind of a pain, to say the least. I wish the design was different. On most other vehicles, once you remove the wheel, the drum slides right off. No idea why Ford did it differently.

 

I think all the 80-86 Dana's have the style where the hub must come off to remove the brake drum.


I believe the 87+ changed the design to allow brake drum to be removed without removing hub.


Does anyone know for sure?

 

My 86 F350 has the Sterling rear end. You don't have to remove the axel. I know there is 2 1/2" and 3.0" width drums.

 

Picture looks like a Sterlin 10.25", no need to pull the hub if all you're doing is brakes. If the hub seal is leaking gear oil then you will, and if that is the case you'll want to replace the seal with a "Scottseal" style 2 piece seal. The old 1 piece seals always leak in short order if the spindle is not pristine.

 

That's definitely a Sterling. The brake drum can be removed separately without pulling the axle shaft and removing the hub, although they are often rusted on and will need sometimes need some persuasion to break them free.

 

From my inexperienced perspective, how do you tell a Sterling from a Dana? That hub looks very similar to the Dana on my '84 F250HD.

 

The Sterling hubs are over an inch longer than the Dana. Also if you look at the "flutes" on the hub, they are wide at the axle end and get narrower toward the wheel, while on a Dana hub they are straight. The Dana axle has more of a raised step in the center of the axle shaft while the Sterling is more flat. The Sterling's axle bolts have the star pattern on the heads while the Danas don't. Sterlings typically use longer wheel studs without threads cut all the way to the end.

That's a few ways you can tell by looking at the hub. The covers are different too. If I had pictures of both it would be a lot easier to compare and notice the differences.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong - this is what I found out so far ...
the Dana rears are filled through the rear cover, and the Sterling rears are filled through the differential housing (the front side of diff).

 

Your wish is my command.

Here's the photo again from post #1:

Sterling


From my '84 F250HD:
Dana

 

Its been awhile since I saw a Dana full floater but I thought the fluted part was straighter on them. Guess not by looking at that pic. But the Sterling hub will measure a good inch or more longer from the wheel. Also notice the raised bump inside the bolt circle on the axle shaft. Its much more prominent on the Dana axle while the Sterling is flatter. You can also see the difference in the axle bolts. Every Sterling I've ever seen has the star head bolts (assuming they haven't been replaced). Wheel studs are slightly longer on the Sterling too, you'll have more threads sticking out past the nuts.

Correct. Sterlings have the plug in the housing near the pinion, Danas have the plug in the cover.

 

IIRC, '85 was the transition year; early '85s (I have one) had the Dana, late '85s had the Sterling.

So for future readers, the OP's real question is about removing the DRUM, not the HUB.