Drip Rail Rain Gutter Reseal Repair
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 423
Likes: 5
Great Point, I should have mentioned this. Make sure your seam sealer can be applied to bare metal and follow the instructions! The Eastwood high solids sealer that I used stressed that the surface must be perfectly clean but did not mention any requirement for primer or paint.
Another thing I wish I had done differently would be to use masking tape. If I had used 2 strips of tape and sort of smeared the sealer back and forth, I could have peeled it up and had much better lines. Mine doesn't look terrible though for my purposes, it would be an abomination of a job on a show quality muscle car resto project though!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 901
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
That's exactly what happens.
You will not notice the water pooling at the bottom of the "B" pillar especially if your truck has interior trim mouldings behind the seat.
The "A" pillar seams are prone as well and can mimic a windshield seal leak. (been there done that)
I used 3M All-Around Autobody Sealant #08500 with great success for this type of work. It's paintable and made to seal automotive seams. I've redone the drivers side and the seams on the bed that connected the bedsides to the floor that originally had sealant. It's held up great for over 7 years. It will even seal and fill small drill holes.
You will not notice the water pooling at the bottom of the "B" pillar especially if your truck has interior trim mouldings behind the seat.
The "A" pillar seams are prone as well and can mimic a windshield seal leak. (been there done that)
I used 3M All-Around Autobody Sealant #08500 with great success for this type of work. It's paintable and made to seal automotive seams. I've redone the drivers side and the seams on the bed that connected the bedsides to the floor that originally had sealant. It's held up great for over 7 years. It will even seal and fill small drill holes.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
I've had the same leak there - you probably need to have your windscreen removed & resealed.
There's no rubber seal there..........the windscreen is 'glued' directly onto the cab with sealant.
There's no rubber seal there..........the windscreen is 'glued' directly onto the cab with sealant.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: One Armed Bandit Land
I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping someone sees this. $30 for the Eastwood brand seems a little steep for a tube of sealant. Is it worth the cost? How many tubes would be needed for a full rain gutter job?
I'm seeing Vulkem sealing products that look compatible for the same purpose, but at much cheaper prices. Around $5-$10/tube.
I'm seeing Vulkem sealing products that look compatible for the same purpose, but at much cheaper prices. Around $5-$10/tube.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,124
From: Angier, NC
I did not have to re-seal the rain gutter but where the roof panel meets the front & rear posts.
I used 3M drip check sealer for the small seams but I know from the past it can get hard and crack if put thru a lot of flexing.
When I replaced the floors, rockers, cab corners I used SEM seam sealer on the edges, it stays flexable. I used a tube & gun on the first pass to force it into the seams. I then went over the seams with SEM brush on to make sure the seams were sealed. Oh you can paint over the SEM sealer.
For the gutter if you put it on thick and use your finger to smooth it out I think it would turn out good.
Dave ----
I used 3M drip check sealer for the small seams but I know from the past it can get hard and crack if put thru a lot of flexing.
When I replaced the floors, rockers, cab corners I used SEM seam sealer on the edges, it stays flexable. I used a tube & gun on the first pass to force it into the seams. I then went over the seams with SEM brush on to make sure the seams were sealed. Oh you can paint over the SEM sealer.
For the gutter if you put it on thick and use your finger to smooth it out I think it would turn out good.
Dave ----
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
Silicone is a VERY bad move, Silicone eats the sheet metal, and you will cross contaminate any where you touch and will never hold paint!
The Silicone patch may look good, But give it three years and you can easily drive a screw driver through the silicone and the metal under it......
Just look back at all the people who siliconed the windshield and wondered why the windshield frame rotted anyway....
The Silicone patch may look good, But give it three years and you can easily drive a screw driver through the silicone and the metal under it......
Just look back at all the people who siliconed the windshield and wondered why the windshield frame rotted anyway....
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,124
From: Angier, NC
Silicone is a VERY bad move, Silicone eats the sheet metal, and you will cross contaminate any where you touch and will never hold paint!
The Silicone patch may look good, But give it three years and you can easily drive a screw driver through the silicone and the metal under it......
Just look back at all the people who siliconed the windshield and wondered why the windshield frame rotted anyway....
The Silicone patch may look good, But give it three years and you can easily drive a screw driver through the silicone and the metal under it......
Just look back at all the people who siliconed the windshield and wondered why the windshield frame rotted anyway....
Dave ----
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
Correct FuzzFace, I used SEM seam sealer too. As for the windshield there is no "Sealant" as in something from a calking gun, The trucks of this vintage use a Butyl tape to adhere the glass to the frame, actually the "chrome trim" applies a small amount of pressure to the seal....
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,992
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
What ever sealant you use, it has to be very flexible and stretchy when it dries. You would be surprised how much these trucks flex as they go down the road. The only thing I have seen that might even come close at a regular hardware store would be that sealer you use for aluminum gutters when you put them together.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Just like the urethane I used, different applications call for different viscosity.
You might want something thicker to seal the seams from gutter to window front and rear.
Gutter seal is good for wicking into joints but would likely run right through there.
It does get brittle in 5-10 years.
Which is why i went with urethane over butyl
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
I been using GE clear silicone last couple times i've done it. You can do many trucks with one tube. The GE is 8-10$ a tube, really soft stuff, easily spread it around as you wish, once it drys, remains flexible. Fantastic product, not just for Ford rain gutters either!