Hi Abe, thanks for the welcome!
Yes, I usually tell folks that I'm so far up that I'm closer to New York than PA! 5.19 miles as the crow flys. My address is Little Meadows but I am closer to Warren Center. My post office is actually a long distance phone call. Only in Pennsylvania!

 

Hey Brian, that write up is awesome! My only question is...How much did the upgrade cost? Well, actually another question, do I need specialized tools to do it?
Dave

 

Send Chuck an email for cost, he's very good about getting back to you! I even emailed him a few times during install with questions and he was quick to help. Here's his website: Chucks Trucks LLC., Ford Truck Parts and Restoration, Chuck's Trucks, Chucks Trucks

Not really any special tools, the old pinion can be a pain to remove. Chuck suggested hanging the rear by the piñon then heating. I used a brass hammer once it was hot and it slid right out. New one I pressed in.

Here's an old thread on the pinon: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16219407

You'll also need to remove the ring gear. The manual says to center punch and drill the rivets out... that didn't work so well for me so I milled the rivet heads off and punched them out. The new ring is bolted on. That's really it. The timken has no backlash setting or anything so it's fairly straightforward.

 

Another thing to consider when keeping the stock Timken is the huge brake drums. I'm not sure any are available if you need new drums.

They also cause you grief with wheel selection which you already had to deal with. BUT..........I think you can swap later brakes on. Double check because I'm not sure.

Get a cost estimate on your 86 axle mods. I paid $120 for my Dana 60 and spent $300 for new brake components including drums, seals and wheel bearings. The diff looked good so just a flush and new oil.

I paid $165 total to shorten both ends of my drive shaft and re-balance. I had to shorten both ends because I also went with a T98 trans. There is a conversion U-joint but, I got lucky and stock U-joints worked. Ya got some options at least. Just have to see what is best cost effective deal for you.

 

or if you can find a 'cab & chassis' rear-end from that era it should bolt right up w/ no mods needed...

maybe put up a 'trade?' notice on craigslist?

 

A lot depends upon your planned use for your truck. If you don't plan to use it for hauling heavy loads the you might consider not using a full floating rear axle. The common choices are Ford 9" or 8.8" which are plenty strong and less costly to modify and/or repair.

 

Petemcl, The only problem with a 9" or 8.8" is I don't believe they come in the 8 lug pattern do they? I don't want to carry two different spares.


GoldCo, I'm taking your advice about the want ad on Craigslist.

Thanks,
Dave

 

You may want to think about upgrading to disk brakes on the front in which case you can make them match. Many of us that do not live in very remote areas don't run with spare tires anyhow. Good tires, an air pump and AAA should handle any problems that come up in our areas. Somewhere on this forum there is a recent thread discussing this.

 

Pete has a good point. Most of the front disc brake conversion kits are for the 5 lug wheels.

I thought a lot about going that route. I actually had the 72 F250 Dana 60 lined up on the way to look at the F3 the day I bought it. Must have been a sign for ME to stay 8 lug.

My stock front drums are in good shape now and it stops better than I thought it would. But.......if I ever need drums it's going to be hard to find a good used set.

 

Ford 9" 1950 F1 project

I cut down and re-tubed one of my bent dirt modified rear ends. The axle length side to side are different. I set the hub faces up to work with really wide rims with a fairly deep dish. Its a lot of work. This photo shows the results of about 200 hours of work new axels and powder coat. The plug in the case is to inspect the ring and pinion. (I hope I never use it)!

 

Now that! Is a little extreme for my use, but I get your point.
Anything can be done.
Dave