Since this forum has been so important to me over the years I wanted to post my experience doing this installation. My deltas were around 10-15 apart and on the highway the oil temps would rise further to hit a delta of around 20-25 and would then come back to the range of 10-15 again off highway.
Im the original owner and its a 2005 F-350 XLT. I followed the advice of everyone here and installed a coolant filter after a long flush years ago. Switched to the correct coolant and checked my coolant filter for any debris- none appeared over 50k miles.
I always said when the time came I would eliminate the issue as best I could and do as many of the upgrades while I was in there. Im currently at 149K with original everything except the turbo which was replaced under warranty at 40k.
The truck has been great but with the deltas hitting the 15-20 mark it was time to stop pretending I wasnt heading for trouble.
I ordered the BPD EGR cooler / Oil/air cooler with cold weather option- This was a tough decision but felt this was what suited me. The other choice was the external BPD with factory cooler but in the end I bought the air cooler with the non-traditional mounting bracket so I dont have to drain the AC (Or so the internet tells me).
While I waited for my parts to arrive I started tearing everything down and that went well except for a few things. Broken map sensor, missing turbo pedestal bolt. The ground wire connector on the drivers side loom was twisted and bent on so I couldnt get a socket on it. One side of the nut had become stripped ,how I have no idea but it was a bitch to get off. Cooler is pretty clean I expected it to be horrible a nice surprise. Im assuming this confirms my original diagnosis of a plugged oil cooler.
All went well and I had the STC update kit so I started that first being very careful to clean everything before any removal took place. Came apart without much fanfare but to my surprise no STC fitting, it had the new version. Since I was in there I did the overhaul of new o-rings,changed the fitting and replaced the clean undamaged Screen with the new one. I was puzzled by the three hole gasket included in the kit, paused to watch some youtube videos from 4 different techs and no mention of the gasket so figured I would ask here?
Why does my truck not have the old STC fitting were late model 05s built with the updated part?
What are the chances my standpipes and dummy plugs are updated before I go into that monday?
Will update with some pics as I go in hopes someone in the future will benefit in making a decision about how easy/hard this job is.
Tomorrow I hope to wrap up the HPOP and start on the cooler but so far things have gone ok for me.
For all those wondering Im not a Mechanic by trade but have turned a few wrenches over the years and have average skills but not nearly the experience as some here. This forum has allowed me to keep this truck I just couldnt afford the labor bills associated with what it takes to keep them running good and perform the proper maintenance a the required intervals. I have followed all the basic preventative measures in the tech file and enjoy learning about my truck. Its nice to know what makes them tick and not have to be at the mercy of the shop because I didnt take care of it properly. More to come as I did deeper into this project

 

That gasket is for the turbo oil feed on the top of the turbo. I don't remember that being in the kit. Good idea to replace the orings on the hpop since you took the pump out. I might be overkill to replace the stc fitting since you had one in the kit, but I would if I had the part staring at me on the bench.

Old Standpipes and DP have the 10mm allen head and new have the 12mm. Drivers side is easy to do but pass side standpipe will have to seperate the upper half to get the old out, reverse procedure for install.

Good luck on your build and take tons of pictures for routing of wiring, stud or bolt, etc. Best way to figure out how to work on your engine is to work on your engine. Lots of good info on here for reference, ideas, procedures. Lots of guys on FTE are extremely helpful and knowledgeable.

 

Daddykitty got it. As for the updated fitting coming in your 05 is surprising. You are sure it's the new design? Here's a pic of old/new.

 

Sorry for the delay everyone been busy installing and getting my truck back on the road . My STC fitting was exactly the same as the upgrade I changed it anyway just to be safe.
As for the installation I wont bore everyone with another bulletproof book but I will detail things I think are important for folks with my skill set (Basic).
I did view Diesel Tech Rons (RIP) videos over and over prior to become familiar and learn some tricks. I can confirm my oil cooler was partially plugged due to wide deltas. I fooled myself for a few months thinking I was ok because at highway speeds the separation of 20 quickly stabilized off highway. I change my oil at Reg intervals and during the last change it was really black and nasty like it had 20k miles on it. That along with a CEL for glow plug #3 convinced me it was time.
In hindsight I will say when you do this upgrade leave enough room in the budget for things that go snap. The tabs on the plug for the turbo snapped with just finger pressure and once in there you always get some other stuff done while its opened up. I switched back to Ford T-Stat after 2 stuck Mit I had had enough, bad luck Im sure.
Before I started I did a complete flush with the T-Stat out and eveything that came out was free of oil and looked great. I did not drain the AC prior and in hindsight this was a mistake. I had read you can install without doing it if you use the NON traditional mounting bracket and while this is true (I Did) its a real PIA. Just go and have it recovered it will save you more time than you spent at the shop getting it done right. I think the bracket from bulletproof is well worth the money its just a really good mounting alternative - Peace of mind.

Tear Down- The usual process a I removed the bumper & grill hood latch Etc all without issue lots of WD-40. Next was the batteries,alternatior, air cleaner, FICM, Turbo, turbo Pedatal ,fuel bowl /Oil filter and everything associated on the top of the engine as needed.
Word of caution dont try to take the hose of the MAp sensor unbolt , it snapped as soon as I twisted the hose to remove- a mild but costly mistake.
Then it was the moment of truth the Dreaded EGR Cooler and then the oil cooler. Pretty straight forward although when I turned the EGR Manifold over all of my bolts dumped out. Not a big deal but I was counting on writting the location of the studs vs bolt when it went back in.
Next was cleaning of the EGR manifold which I soaked in Simple green in a rubbermaid tub for 48 hrs. I them used a hot water pressure washer to clean the interior as best I could. Its a nasty job I was filthy even with rain gear on.
At this point I was ready to pull the HPOP and change out the fitting and the new o-Rings. I dont know why this part made me nervous but it did and I went slow being carefull to be spotless with eveything and it went ok.
With that done I installed the new oil block from bulletproof and the now useless oil filter housing. During re-assembly I blew out all bolt holes and torqed absolutley everything to factory specs.
Then it was on to the the air to oil cooler mounting and running of the hoses and mounting of external oil filter. As I mentioned if I had removed the AC prior I would have saved myself lots of time oh well. This takes a little time and patience and I took a few 5-6hr days to make sure I did a good job. Why did it take that long you ask. Well if its your first time your not familiar with the configuration of the parts, you check and re-check your doing it in the proper order and then you check again. The oil lines are big (Like excavator big) so you dont want to get everything in and find out oops I made a mistake.
Next I made sure to follow the routing of the lines to the letter. The AC side is tough but with patience it works. I purchased the deep cooler with the oil bypass so it adds some thickness to the cooler and some length due to the bypass valve. When this was done I check carefully for rub points and any area I felt could be a wear point. Spotting a couple I zip tied thin strips of rubber overs a few areas to be a first sign of wear and not the hose. The other side was about the same correct routing is essential and the length was perfect. A few minor sharp edges I ground to a round edge and some more rubber and zip ties on this one spot. Make sure the lines are connect to the cooler before you mount it -big mistake if you dont and the AC is still in
With that done it was on to dummy plugs and stand pipes which was really easy- Mine showed almost no wear at all , another part I wondered if I should have spent $100 on- better to be safe was my phrase of the day.
Then on to glow pugs ,those are cheap so eight it was and little did I know how fun this would be. With the proper tool I attempted to pull the harness off and broke all of them, same with the other side. For clarity I had the tool on all the way and complete access via removal of the fender well (passengers side). These things were so brittle I couldnt believe it and spent the next 5 hours with a tap and pic set pulling them out. This whole part really sucked make sure you have new harnesses if you intend to change the glow plugs.
With that done it was time to put it all back together and that was straight forward. I dont know why but the wire loom intimidated me at first but its pretty simple once you have done it just be careful with connectors.
With that done I refilled all fluids threw some jumper cables on my other super duty so I didn't kill the batteries and prepped to start.
Side note - During assembly I did take my time filling the oil block and some portion of the lines figured it could only help. I checked with Bulletprooof for expected time to crank before it should fire and they said usally a couple of 10-15 sec cranks . They said to leave the ficm unplugged and crank until I see oil pressure and then hook up the ficm and fire it up . So 10-15 secs is a long time when its the first time you have gone that deep in the engine. It fired on the second attempt and ran a little funny while it was adjusting to its new parts. It settled down and purred so after checking for leaks and other other potential problem I took it for a ride. It varied from great to making noises like the injectors didnt know what to do and settled down. During WOT it gave me CEL code of P2284 which I thought oh crap maybe I should replace the IPR instead of just the screen. Parked looked everything over cleared the code and ran it again zero issue and code didnt return. Couple of long cranks initally after repairs but that seems to have gone away it fires almost immediatly now. So far it is running great and today as I prep for snow the Temp is 31 and after driving at 65 on the highway my FWT is 190 and EOT 162. Going out now to plow so I will update in a few days and add my pictures which I took a few off during the process. Bulletproof customer service A++ be back soon with updates. Im my opinion if its your first time this is a weeklong job if you gamble and rush a little quicker. If I had to do it again It would take 1/4 of the time. The advice of everyone and the ford techs really resonated after I finished. This set up is expensive and once you have done this repair stock or remote cooler replacement is annoying but not terrible. My thought was I love this truck what the best option for towing and to avoid this down the road so I made my choice. Not going to lie the remote set up /stock filter was a hell of a deal I almost went that route.
Be back with updates

 

I hear ya on that damn MAP sensor! If you even look at it funny it'll break. Broke mine installing an external coolant filter. After seeing the shocking $50 price tag i tried my best to fix the old one. Glued it, didn't hold, plastic welded it, didn't hold. Threw in the towel and bought a new one. If I ever have to take it off again I'll 1st remove the end on the intake barb, then remove the whole mount bracket holding it.
Glad to see everything is going smoothly on your new BPD install. You'll never need to stress about delta again.

 

Well ran the truck all night plowing snow which included several trip down the highway. FWT 190 EOT never went above 170 the entire time.
Still early but I wish I had done this a long time ago just such a good feeling not being worried about Deltas all the time. I still look and smile when I see a seperation of 20

 

170 for oil is cool. Did you plumb in a thermostatic cooler bypass valve?

 

yes I did it was about 10 degrees last night Oil was at 175 today should I block the radiator to try and get it up a little?

 

On the highway its around 189 around town it hovers around 170-73
FWT 191