Bummer! I don't like to hear stories like that. Glad ours seem good.

 

Great looking truck.The art of resurection can be frustrating.BTDT.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Replaced the thermostat... three times. Third time was the charm though.

When I pulled it off, the thermostat housing was really pitted and rough, the block was clean and smooth though. Scraped off old gasket, tried the neoprene gasket that came with the thermostat (Neoprene gasket said not to use with RTV). It leaked like a sieve. Removed neoprene gasket, loaded it up with RTV hoping it would fill in the pitted areas and hold... it blew out. So I finally went and bought a new thermostat housing, installed with gasket that came with it, voila, no leaks.

Ran it for about 30 minutes, was on the hotter side of normal but never like it used to. I think there are other issues at play besides just the thermostat that need to be looked into now.

There are so many little quirks I am finding with this truck, it's going to take me forever to iron them all out.

In other news, the truck started up a LOT easier today than it had in the past. It's been about 4 weeks since I've started it, but only took a few attempts at cranking before it started.

I noticed when I was replacing the thermostat that I have an open tube hanging out in space.



It's below the intake hose, smog pump, and to the left of the alternator. Anyone have an idea what that is supposed to be connected to?

Have a good end of the week guys, and thanks for all your help so far.

 

I'm guessing that's the vent line coming from the tank to the evap cannister.

 

I would also guess it's EVAP-related but you'll need to trace it to see where the ends go...

 

I will do that, it is just odd that there is just one open connection hanging out there. I looked around and I didn't see any other line that was hanging out alone. Could be it broke off or rotted off. I'll have to Hardy boy my way around under there and see if I can find something.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

 

That's the fuel tank(s) vent line coming from the tanks that then goes to the charcoal canister. I know this, because mine has the same steel line. However I have removed all of my old emissions stuff because all of it was complete junk.

 

Thanks, Matthew. I haven't messed with any of the emissions pieces yet (though I probably will delete them all).

I live in Oregon, but due to restrictive emissions laws here (and high DMV fees) I will be registering the truck in Idaho. So all of that emissions stuff is unnecessary, unless it contributes to the truck running smooth as butter. I just want it to run smooth, drive comfortably, and haul things... for now.

My goal is for my father-in-law to be jealous. He has a 1995 Ford F-150 that he thinks is nicer. I respectively disagreed.

 

I removed all of mine, and man was all of mine a twisted mess of spaghetti. All of the thermactor emissions stuff had tons of rust in it, it was evident none of it had worked in years. You must be in an emissions county in Oregon? so that means 1975 and newer must pass emissions? When I bought my truck the registration renewal was $59. A year later it's $74. Greedy jackass people running the state.

 

That is correct. Washington County. 1975 and newer, or those vehicles weighing less than 8500 lbs gross vehicle weight. That means on top of the renewal I have to pay them $22 to glance at the truck, say 'uh huh,' and then stamp a sheet of paper saying I do my best to not pollute.

Idaho was $26 dollars last time I registered my car. I paid $52 for two years so I don't have to do it as often.

Also, Idaho plates are more attractive. I might even get a vanity plate. Maybe a majestic elk, or the noble salmon...

 

Thanks to awesome forum members (1986F150Six is an awesome dude!), I have a 1984 factory radio for the truck. I got all excited because it stopped raining today and there was still some light outside! So I grabbed the radio, stepped outside, and went to see what I could do.

Not much it turns out. I pulled out the old, beat up Casio cassette deck that was installed and found a lot of splicing.

I'm going to start off with the wiring from the radio:



There are 8 wires total. 3 wires going to a 4-pin connector and 5 wires to a 8-pin connector.



Than on the truck side there are:



Here there are only 2 wires going to 4-pin connector and 6 wires going to the 8-pin connectors.

Unfortunately, the different wiring diagrams I have found for 1984 don't match the colors coming off of the radio (Possibly not a 1984 Radio?).

The yellow wire going to the aftermarket harness now might need to be routed to the 4-pin harness to match the orange wire and the two red(or pink) wires on the radio harness will probably be matched to the two black wires on the truck side. Otherwise it looks pretty similar. Anyone know for sure?

So I'll be a bit of exploring to get it working. I'm going to try and run by a junkyard tomorrow or Wednesday and cut out the truck-side of the harness so I can do away with the aftermarket one that is in there.

 

I'll check my EVTM tomorrow to see if that can help you.

 

First pic:

Yellow/black hash = switched, fused power
Light blue/red = dimmable dash backlighting
Orange = power antenna
All 3 above match up to the same-colored wiring in the truck BUT you won't have an orange, trucks didn't have power antennae as an option so there won't be an orange to mate up in the truck's wiring.


Second pic = speaker wires

Third pic = spliced mess you have to figure out

Fourth pic looks to be power, backlighting

Factory radios ground through the case and antenna connection, there is no separate, dedicated ground wire

 

Thanks!

So the unmolested 4-pin connector is going to be all my stereo power. That will plug right in.

I already saw the ground as well.

The splice mess isn't as bad as I had thought after looking at it again. He basically just cut the speaker wires and the ground. Just have to splice a half dozen wires and plug it in!

Part of me wants to grab my headlamp and go rig it...

 

Make sure the fuse in the fuse box is good, but I totally forget its location and amperage rating.