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I copied Matt's post from a while back and saved it.
I'm glad you did. Might come in handy some time. And, while I'm sure all of Matt's posts are worthwhile, does this one apply to the discussion at hand?
I'm glad you did. Might come in handy some time. And, while I'm sure all of Matt's posts are worthwhile, does this one apply to the discussion at hand?
Just a thought, did Ford use the same ring gear tooth count on all there flywheels? I know in early model Jeeps they used different count ring gears with different tooth counts. You have to use the correct starter gear tooth count or it will do just what you seem to be going through. An incorrect starter/ring gear match will work for awhile but will kill the starter.
Just a thought, did Ford use the same ring gear tooth count on all there flywheels? I know in early model Jeeps they used different count ring gears with different tooth counts. You have to use the correct starter gear tooth count or it will do just what you seem to be going through. An incorrect starter/ring gear match will work for awhile but will kill the starter.
Interesting question. I have two flywheels here on the bench, and both have 180 teeth. One is from a '90 F350 460/ZF5, and the other came out of Rusty, which is an '81 351M. However, he started life as an auto, so this flywheel was transferred in from something else and, judging by the tag on the tranny (8-10-83) I'd say it was an '83.
Anyway, both flywheels measure 15 9/16" in diameter and have the same tooth-count.
I know the old small blocks came with 157 and 164 tooth flywheels, the best break point was the number of bolts on the back of the block, 221, 260 and early 289s were 5 bolts and 157 tooth flywheels, late 289s, 302s and 351w & c are 6 bolt and most are 164 tooth, Hi-Po 289s seemed to have used the smaller flywheel.
Jim, can you measure the depth of the front edge of the ring gear teeth from the starter mounting face on the block plate? From what Matt has posted on the starters (Chris ought to make it a sticky) there are two different depths, your pinion should be able to engage fully, but the drive shouldn't hit the ring gear. Could you get a picture of the pinion wear pattern also, that would help decide if maybe you need the larger pinion.
Okay.
I have .557-.558" from the face of the dust plate to the face of the ring gear.
The starter gear projects .503" from the face of the starter.
The starter gear has .494" that it can throw outward.
Here's a look at the teeth of the starter:
Sorry for the photo quality.
The camera in my phone is marginal, and the lens cover is dirty.
Had to change a tire on dad's truck today. One of the ancient rear tires developed a leak, thru a crack in the sidewall......
Sure am glad it didn't let go when I was running 60-65 on the highway yesterday......
Jim, what is the measurement from the actual mounting face of the starter? The gear looks like it is either barely engaging the ring gear, or is hitting it driving. Can you have someone push the clutch in while you see if the flywheel moves any?
As you can see there is a raised piloting diameter that fits in the hole of the dust shield.
I will find some machined stock to build a bridge and make that measurement after dinner.
That's what I was talking about, because if it's over about .050" your going to have some interference running. Actually, just measure from the face of the casting down to the bolt area since you already measured the pinion retracted position. I'm beginning to think that the ring gear is set up like the 87 would have been.
Last edited by 85lebaront2; Mar 5, 2012 at 06:06 PM.
Reason: Additional information.
If there is adifference in tooth count for application this is going to cause the wear and damage discussed. Improper gear timing is going to thrust the pinion gear outwards to the opposite side of where it mates to the ring gear.
When you say "breaks the snout off" . Do you mean the actual starter case where it is semi domed?
That's what I was talking about, because if it's over about .050" your going to have some interference running. Actually, just measure from the face of the casting down to the bolt area since you already measured the pinion retracted position. I'm beginning to think that the ring gear is set up like the 87 would have been.
My first .503" measurement is from the lower (but unmachined) face of the starter, not the raised lip.