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Just found out my heater core is bad. Smelled the antifreeze and the windshield is starting to fog up even though the fan was off, the heat/antifreeze was making its way inside. I priced them at only $25 (works for me) but I am looking for some instruction on replacement. Thanks. Also is it safe to bypass the heater core with a piece of copper until I get time to replace it. I don't need heat right now anyway, it is supposed to be in the 90's all next week.
I guess I did leave that out Sorry, yes it does have ac. As far as the replacement core from AutoZone it is a Spectra I believe and it is covered under a lifetime warranty. I will have to check it out first though. Do I just have to pull the glove box or that whole area of the dash?
just remove the screws that hold the liner in the glovebox then you can access the heater core"s cover from the glovebox opening. I replaced mine about 5 months ago withthe one from autozone and haven't had any problems yet, however they do have two different ones for our model truck witjh a/c, so I just bought both and returned the on that didn't match up, the visible difference being the position of the hose connections.
Thanks for the help all, guindian28 do you know off hand how much antifreeze I will need, autozone was running a special on the premix and I definately need to change the fluid, no new core with old fluid.
just wend thru the same thing on my 82. The autozone product would not fit due to the large rectangular tank on top. My original had two small humps on top so the spectra would not fit in the heater box. looked forever and finally figured out if you find a brass/copper one it will likly be correct. the aluminum ones will not. Rock Auto had the best price on the brass/copper replacement.
OK finally got around to pulling the heater core, I got the whole assembly out of the engine compartment, now how the hell do I get it out of the box. Didnt mess with it too much because I was trying to address an a/c issue. Any tips on getting the actual core out of the assembly? I am guessing it just lifts out of the channels it is in. Thanks for all the help guys
Generally, yes, just open it up and take it apart.
I used the opportunity to replace the foam rubber that was on the doors and duct work, it had all dry-rotted and turned to dust by touching it.
If you have an air compressor, fill the core with air while in a bucket of water and see where it's leaking. Mine was leaking at the joint between a tube and tank, I just re-soldered it.
take the cover off, disconnect heater hoses and it pops right out. Mine was all nasty and sticky from leaking so it was a little tough...but it should just pop out.
take the cover off, disconnect heater hoses and it pops right out. Mine was all nasty and sticky from leaking so it was a little tough...but it should just pop out.
Only if you have AC; without it, it's lots more involved:
Got the SOB out and replaced, my truck must not have been build with ac because when I got the replacement core for my truck with ac it was the wrong one. The core was wider and the connections were longer and in the center of the core. They didnt know what to do and said I must have the high output heater and were going to order that one for me but I said pull the one for my truck without ac and guess what it fits! Really wasnt that bad, it all went together much faster than it came apart. Now if I can only get my ac problem figured out. Its pushing 100 deg here and I just got my heat fixed but still no ac. Well I guess that just means when I got to work today I can just keep the windows up and crank up the heater! Thanks for the help everyone.
I'm in the process of removing my heater core assembly on my 82 f150, non a.c. I removed the three nuts on the inside of the cab behind the glove box, and have tried to lessen the bolt on the top left of the heater box assembly under the hood. Here's the issue, the bolt won't come out, just spins freely. I tried applying constant pressure outwards as I try to back the bolt out, and still no luck. The right side of the box is free and comes out about 4 inches, but the left is obviously still attached. Any ideas on removing that bolt, or is it suppose to stay and I'm just missing a bolt??
Thanks, -Gio
Here's a picture. The blow-up shows one of them being a stud. If it's loose now, you might need to put vise grips on the outside under the hood while turning the nut under the dash.
There's no corresponding nut for that bolt behind the dash, it's quite confusing. I figured it was just a bolt threading into the firewall, but what do I know right? That being said, does it seem I have all the bolts located, just have to get that one loose somehow? I'm tempted to bring out a sharp chisel and call it a day. The bolt on the top left of the assembly to the left of the label "View A" is the one I'm having trouble with
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