I thought there might be one in the TECH folder, but alas, there is none.

In my Volant CAI install, there is a very detailed explanation WITH PICTURES. Go here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/..._F250_V10.html

For the tech folder, I've put together a quicky how to, at least on the 2-valve V10:

1) Remove air cleaner. Unsnap the band that goes around the air box, and separate the halves.

2) Pull up on the rear air box half, it should just pop out of the rubber grommets.

3) Disconnect the wire harness on the air box half that is still attached to the intake tube.

4) Loosen the hose clamp holding the air box half to the intake tube.

5) Remove air box half from the vehicle.

** At this point, you can see the MAF in the air box, and you can either just spray MAF cleaner through the air box from both sides, or continue on and remove the entire MAF assembly from the air box **

6) Looking at the face of the air box that the air cleaner sits in, you will see a few slots. In these slots are tabs that hold the MAF housing in the air box. If you pry GENTLY with a screw driver, the face of the air box will separate from the air box outer shell, and the MAF housing can be removed from the air box. Disconnect the MAF connector and remove the entire MAF housing.

7) Two anti-tamper Torx screws (they have a pin in the center of the head of the screw) hold the MAF sensor itself to the MAF housing. BE CAREFUL removing those screws. In my case, one of the screws didn't come out easily, and the brass insert in the plastic started to turn with the screwn. I had to crazy-glue it back in, which worked, but for this reason, you MAY NOT WANT to actually remove the MAF from the housing, and instead just spray the heck out of it.

8) Remove the torx screws, if they do not come easily don't force them. Pull the MAF sensor from the MAF housing.

9) Spray the MAF sensor, and maybe even CAREFULLY use a Q-TIP to clean the wires.

10) Reverse to reinstall. MAKE SURE that the rubber wiring plug on the bottom of the rear-most air box half is fully inserted and if it's loose, GLUE IT IN. If it falls out or leaks, it can cause unmetered air to get past the MAF and cause the engine to run lean. In my case, it did, and with headers it made a god-awful ticking noise in the headers themselves (gas burning after the exhaust valve opened), to the point where I thought they were leaking. They weren't