http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/3425/001bn.jpg

I keep forgetting to take a picture when its light outside lol


Just pull the ball off and put it back on after cutting antenna.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...ROBBY003-1.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...ROBBY002-1.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...n/ROBBY004.jpg

painted the motor for the stang i think its all purty now


i know about the over spray im going to let it drive over night and it he over spray with a wire brush

did the seafoam treatment and changed the fuel filter. seafoam=SMOKE show! hahaha

Thats is pretty cool.

I just did a transmission fluid flush on my truck, replaced the filter and pan seal.

No that did not fix the leak!!! The leak is really bad. I wouldn't drive it in this state.

Please help and read my post.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...sion-leak.html

Took out the center counsel in my truck. Going to build my own in a few days.

Also cleaned under the front seat. The seat frame under the center counsel was very nasty!

went another day without scrapping her out

That's great news. Just take it one day at a time, that's what I do, and I still have yet to send a truck to the scrap yard... cars on the other hand.

Although in truth, it wont be long and my 95 will be scrap.

I have mine mounted like that. Made a mount out a piece of 1/4" x 3" steel stock. The gap between the tire and inside bed panel is a great place to jamb a shovel and a broom. The wheel is a factory steel spoke from a late 70's Bronco. I keep a tow chain hooked into one of the spokes and the bulk of the chain fits into the space between the lower front of the tire and front bed panel. Works slick.

Clay, from what I can see in your avatar pic your spare wheel is actually bolted to the driver-side bed rail in the front of the bed - did you move the wheel from there since the pic was taken? Actually there is an optional factory bracket assembly that puts the spare wheel in that location (on the bed rail), I think it was LMC's catalog that I saw that in...

Oh, and as for my truck-related activities, I finished up the York install today - last night I noticed the belt starts slapping pretty bad when the pressure goes past 50-60 psi, so today I added an idler pulley for it to ride on - worked like a charm, belt stays nice and straight. Now I gotta make an idler for the other side of thee engine, so I can use the factory belt routing for the alternator but without the nasty belt slap that goes with it...

Here's a quick photo update.

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1054.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1095.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1094.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1039.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1040.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1098.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1097.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1096.jpg

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...k/IMG_1042.jpg

Handles, CB remounted, polished headlights, painted over old bare spots. Sorry for the quickie.

Hey Clay and LCAM, you guys have any pictures of your tire mounts?

Replaced both of the front rusted out spring shackle hangers. I now have all new rear shackles. Next project is to do the rear shocks and mounts - really rusted!

Finished the 86's clutch "up(down)grade" to manual clutch. Its got a replacement bell housing and clutch. Worked fine for the drive to school.

Thinking about going to a ZF5, or ZF6 if I can find one in the BBF setup. Just to get some better RPM and MPGs at highway speed (65 MPH at 3000 RPM).
Assuming I can find an adapter, I may try to set up a Strait 10, or Fuller 8 in it. Simply because it would lead to may less RPM, thus way better MPGs, and have plenty of room for increasing torque in the future (pushing 485 ft/lb now which is 100 over stock.)
(no, I aint just running my mouth, I'm looking for your opinions on this.)

All I did was drill some holes in the back of top rail on the front bed wall and run some long bolts through (welded the bolts to a small plate on the other side to spread the load and keep them from spinning while work the lugnuts) - wheel sits on the bottom of the bed and leans agains the front bed wall to which it's retained with these two bolts. My truck is a dually tho so for onre my wheels are larger than yours and the hub can actually reach the top rails of the bed, and two being very offset to one side I can bolt the wheels to any flat surface without having to make any special hubs and stuff.

You can actually apply the same idea, only in a bit opposite way - first lean your wheel against the front bed wall and with a sharpie mark on the top rail where one or two of holes line up (may have to rotate the wheel a bit to get them located good). Then take a piece of angle iron that is about as long as the wheel's diameter and slip it inside the top rail and bolt it down to it (one or two 5/16" bolts at each end will be plenty sufficient), then drill some holes through the bed rail and the angle iron behind it - you have a halfton truck that uses 1/2" wheel studs, so drill 3/8" or 7/16" holes. Now, remove the angle iron from inside the bed rail, and weld some 3/8" or 7/16" nuts to its back over these holes you just drilled - I've found the easiest way to weld nuts to something is to use a bolt to hold them tight, when you're done just remove the bolt and the nuts remain where they should be. Finally, paint the entire thing so it don't rust, slide it back in the top rail, and bolt it in at its ends again (make sure you use washers so the bolts don't pull through the sheetmetal over time) - now go to your hardware store and get a pair of 3/8" or 7/16" bolts that are long enough to go through your wheel's lug holes as it's leaning against the front bed wall and threads into those nuts you just welded to the back of the angle iron - as you tighten these bolts they will pull the wheel tight against the bed rail and the angle iron reinforcement behind it. When the wheel is removed all you have is two threaded holes in your bed rail and two looong bolts laying loose, so you can still load the truck big time if you need to.

had to pull over and shut my truck off, because my throttle kept on sticking. mounted my semi air horn behind the grille. lol