New Pics in gallery
 

Well we can't get on the Chat. So I used the time to put some more pics up. Beware these are from the DARKSIDE. You have been warned.LOLhttp://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...ons/icon10.gif I wish I could figure out how to start a new Gallery, for some reason it will not let me.

lookin good man.

Man, that engine sure looks good in there! The Jag stuff looks very nice. I see you started playing with the welder. :-D

I'm hoping there's more to the motor mounts than that one picture, tho. :-X07

looks really good, like the progress...........
i know nothing about jag rears, but this is a Dana 44 cover/centersection.
i bet you could use a number of different aftermarket "Dana 44" covers
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...165060.520.390

Nice project... :-wink

Rusty, looking good! How much offset did you end up with the engine? It looks like just over 1 inch to clear the block huggers. Your gallery indicates that the motor is a 350 TPI. That should be a great combo with the 700R4. Are the heads Vortec heads? I went the carb route with vortec heads but the TPI setup should make it run super smooth and probably provide better mileage. I am set up with a 9 inch with a 3.70 with a 700R4. What is the ratio on your jag rear? Someday we should compare mileage results. Several years away for me since I do my own body and paint work and I am slow.

Looks good.......and it is so "dark" }>
Pretty tight clearances on the dizzy to firewall and header collector flange to steering box.....or is it just the pics that make it look like that?
Ooooohhh I know I know....... fab some "Power By Ford" valve covers to fit and you may fool a few of the "lightside" people LOLOLOLOLOL :-missingt

I see you've got cookies!!! Looking good. :-X22

I did my best for a beginner. It turned pretty good. I just hope it all stays together in the end.

49willard It is 1inch to the pass side. The collector pipe below the bolts on the headers will be pie cut to the engine side bent and welded back. to give me about an inch more clearence on the steering box. Randy Jack I put some more pics of the motor mounts in the gallery. For some reason after the first 4 or so you have to go back and click on the last 3. Don't know what happened. sparky I'll have to think about the valve covers. It's a thought.

One of my daughters and one of my grand sons spent 3 hrs and 43 minutes putting 4 pics in my gallery(I have dial-up). Two showed up. If you look, disregard that old man standing there, I think it's somebody else.
Nice work on the F1, tho.

Lookin really good

Rusty -

That motor mount looks weenie to me. You just have the bolt tube welded to the end of the rectangular tube? I would have preferred the bolt tube go thru a hole in the rectangular tube, then get welded around it to the rectangular tube. That would put parent metal into work. Welds can be brittle and crack, especially under that kind of vibration and torque loading.

I don't want to bum you out, but I would think about redoing that.

I have to agree. For one, there's no rubber or poly to absorb the engine vibration, destined to cause cracks...is that a factory motor mount? And I don't know for sure, but I suspect the square tube perch should have the thru-bolt resting on top of it, instead of hanging below...again not sure? square tube vertical?

I'm with Randy and Havi this one however if your going for solid motor mounts you got them but your gonna regret it with a street truck.