HP estimates?
-2013 6.7L Powerstroke 4x4
-Sinister diesel EGR delete -AFE 4” Downpipe back straight pipe -AFE Momentum HD Intake -EZLYNK 2.0 AutoAgent (PPEI Kory Willis Tune) (Ford 13-14 6.7 PK. No emissions SOTF 30-180HP. V4.0-LBF) Anyone running something similar? Any ideas on Wheel Horsepower? Anyone Dyno? Thanks guys!!! |
11-14 trucks run out of air right before/around the 500 RWHP mark. I laid down 490/1105 with my patriot tuned 12 when I had it.
|
I'm looking for the torque specs on Tyrant Tow tune for 2015 6.7 . Thank you
|
Originally Posted by Jacob h
(Post 18599130)
-2013 6.7L Powerstroke 4x4
-Sinister diesel EGR delete -AFE 4” Downpipe back straight pipe -AFE Momentum HD Intake -EZLYNK 2.0 AutoAgent (PPEI Kory Willis Tune) (Ford 13-14 6.7 PK. No emissions SOTF 30-180HP. V4.0-LBF) Anyone running something similar? Any ideas on Wheel Horsepower? Anyone Dyno? Thanks guys!!! What does your butt dyno say? :-X04 |
The only way to know how much HP you have is put it on the rollers. Otherwise its a guess
|
Originally Posted by Jacob h
(Post 18599130)
-2013 6.7L Powerstroke 4x4
-Sinister diesel EGR delete -AFE 4” Downpipe back straight pipe -AFE Momentum HD Intake -EZLYNK 2.0 AutoAgent (PPEI Kory Willis Tune) (Ford 13-14 6.7 PK. No emissions SOTF 30-180HP. V4.0-LBF) Anyone running something similar? Any ideas on Wheel Horsepower? Anyone Dyno? Thanks guys!!! pre 2015’s can barely handle stock power with out splitting cranks, bending rods, cracking heads, spinning bearings. In 2015 the 6.7 went to a more robust crank design, more metal in the heads, and coated bearings. To increase reliability even further , in 2020 the change to iron pistons, thicker rods, and even more metal in critical areas will occur. |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6d634fb95e.jpg
Originally Posted by The Bone
(Post 18604661)
The only way to know how much HP you have is put it on the rollers. Otherwise its a guess
Sorry Bone, couldn't help myself. |
Originally Posted by speakerfritz
(Post 18605585)
short term power vs reliability
pre 2015’s can barely handle stock power with out splitting cranks, bending rods, cracking heads, spinning bearings. In 2015 the 6.7 went to a more robust crank design, more metal in the heads, and coated bearings. To increase reliability even further , in 2020 the change to iron pistons, thicker rods, and even more metal in critical areas will occur. |
Originally Posted by speakerfritz
(Post 18605585)
short term power vs reliability
pre 2015’s can barely handle stock power with out splitting cranks, bending rods, cracking heads, spinning bearings. In 2015 the 6.7 went to a more robust crank design, more metal in the heads, and coated bearings. To increase reliability even further , in 2020 the change to iron pistons, thicker rods, and even more metal in critical areas will occur. |
Originally Posted by speakerfritz
(Post 18605585)
short term power vs reliability
pre 2015’s can barely handle stock power with out splitting cranks, bending rods, cracking heads, spinning bearings. In 2015 the 6.7 went to a more robust crank design, more metal in the heads, and coated bearings. To increase reliability even further , in 2020 the change to iron pistons, thicker rods, and even more metal in critical areas will occur. Anything is possible. Especially with poor tuning or an initial underlying issue. But your statement doesn’t relflect the aftermarket “norm” for the 11-14 6.7s with stock fuel and air. |
Originally Posted by Jacob h
(Post 18606407)
What would you recommend to increase the reliability of a ‘13 short of swapping all of those parts? Are you saying that a tune like that will decrease reliability and lifespan? Or beating on it like a race car will?
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:07 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands