Throwing in the towel on oil leak
 

My HPOP case had a crack in the housing and it was very hard to figure out that is what it was...

Rick

My prediction at a shop is one arm, one leg and no better results than you can obtain yourself. On the HPOP fittings you also need to use loctite green, I don't know if it helps seal but with the low torque applied it stops them from coming loose.

According to Corey at CNC, green Loctite is a no-no....and I can attest as to why. If you have to remove those fittings at any time, it can and will cause the threads to come with it. It's soft aluminum. There is a proper Loctite that sets more like a Nylock, but I took his advice over the summer and just used the o-rings. No leaks yet.

As far as a shop, I would highly advise against it. You can do this man. We have all been through it. Take a deep breath and start from square one and GO SLOW. That is the biggest reason I see for making mistakes or overlooking a problem. Let us know.

Use tracer dye.

Here's a trick I use to find oil leaks of mysterious origins: take a paper towel, cut it into about 2" strips. Then twist each strip until it's pretty tight, about the diameter of a drinking straw. Wrap the twisted towel around each of the suspect fittings, using a zip tie, twist tie, or clothespin to hold it in place (clothes pins work for smaller fittings, like fuel). Drive it for a bit and remove each towel to see where there is oil - if you're lucky, it will be one you can access without removing too much other stuff to get to it.

I've also found that you can take the twisted paper towel and wet it with water, wrap it around a piece of PVC pipe similar in size to your target test subject, and let it dry - that will help getting it to conform if you're in a tight area.

Also, the things in the link below come in really handy when removing HPOP lines, the head plugs, or anything that is going to drop a lot of oil. I line the valley with them and stuff some under the HPOP, plus make sure the valley drain is plugged with them at the aft end of the valley - it keeps the oil from dripping down the side of the engine and making a mess that takes some time to clean.

I actually had to replace the fittings on my HPOP to get them to quit leaking, I fought them 4 times before I got the new ones. I think I got the new ones at Diesel Orings. I did, linky High Pressure Oil Pump Discharge Hose Fitting - High Flow 1999-2003

You sure it's not the front head on the oil cooler? I've had that leak get up and into the valley before.

Your first step should be to clean the **** out of the valley and top side. Use cut Simple Green. Apply it to a warm, not hot engine. Rinse with just hose pressure. Soak the valley heavy with Simple Green and then flood the valley thoroughly with hose water. Let it dry completely before you start it and check for leaks. You got this bro.. No shop.

FYI..... i was going through a similar issue just last week. I could not find the leak until i cleaned the valley well. It was coming from the (check valve plug) on the block. The one that is just below and to the drivers side of the HPOP...

Check and see if that might be your problem. I was lucky in that i snugged it up and the leak stopped, but i am sure i will have to take that plug out and reseal it in the near future.

I guess now is the time to ask if anybody knows if the HPOP has to be removed to get that plug out to have it resealed.

Thank you guys for all your help and information.... I am going to give it a whirl!

good luck to you. seems everytimei fix something another thing starts leaking, endless projects forsure. love the 7.3 tho.