Started and ran fine. Needs timing pretty bad. But it runs fine. Throttle delay isn't horrible. I had a few boost leaks that caused the fuel not to make it to the intake. All fixed now and it starts good.

Having a big problem with the carb either overflowing due to pressure or another problem. It will rev at by ear I'm guessing 2500 or so and won't go down. Not the fast idle. No choke electric or otherwise on the car. So I'm not sure whats happening. If it was leftover raw fuel it would run itself down. But it just stays so it must be a carb issue. I also need to gasket and o ring for the fuel rail in between the metering blocks if anyone knows what that's called or where I can get them it would be much appreciated.

besides that and needing a carbon seal. She runs well. If I can get the carb running right I can start on some of the body.

Clockwise to retard and counter clockwise to advance the timing. Note the arrow on the Dizzy in the pic below. That is the direction the dizzy spins. There is a mark on the damper. Slot, divot, something. Find it and paint it white. Easier to see with a timing light.


http://www.mustangii.org/tech/engine/fo-200-250.jpg

Jeff. Thank you very much. I'll save this. I have passed this point and have run into a new problem. At idle it over revs and cant return to a reasonable idle speed. Or slow down at all

Some of that high RPM is prolly the timing too far advanced. The gasket and O-rings you need will come in a carb kit. I think you ought to soak it's parts and rebuild it anyways. The accelerator pump nozzles should squirt two streams.

It's more like in stepping on the gas and keeping it above 2k on the tach. Advancement should have that large of an effect. The rebuild kit didn't come with that specific gasket

Are you talking about #55 and #85 in the pic ?

http://brianesser.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/a.jpg

85 66 and 148

85 should have been in the kit. As long as your kit was for a vacuum secondary model 4160. 66 and 148 only if you have a really old Holley carb. Do you?

https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/D...loded_view.gif

Yea, bought it second hand. I still have the kit I bought I'll look through for about the 10th time in case I missed some o rings and that white plastic piece.

it's definitely a bit long in the tooth. I wish I'd waited and found a mechanical secondary and gone blow through :/

didn't hit reply

The upper thinner tube is a bowl vent equalizer tube. No gas through it. So I don't think the O-rings would necessarily have to be meant to seal fuel. But I think some accelerator pump fuel transfer tube O-rings for a later 4160 or 4180 would prolly work. I may have extras at home. You can prolly use the same gasket that seals the choke housing and secondary diaphragm housing (46) to the carb body in place of the 148.

the tube is definitely leaking fuel. I'll see if a tiny bit of plumbers tape will fix it

The bigger of the two transfers fuel front to rear bowl. If the thinner of the two is you may have the float height too high.

fixed the leak and figured out why it was over revving. I fabbed the baseplate for the carb, and hadn't taken off enough material for the butterfly's, so they were getting stuck open just a tiny bit. I only noticed because I couldnt close the throttle manually by hand. A spacer is on the way and that's it besides a brake master cylinder.

unfortunately though I've found out I'm heading back home to california and I'm driving my jeep. So cant bring both vehicles. If your in the area keep on eye on craigslist, you'll get a clean 68 f100 with a whole running turbo set up in perfect running condition before I sell it lol