No, new caliper

No dual piston, that's f250 and up



The reason it's grabbing one sided, no hardware kit, or the rust under the hardware kit raised the slide so much the piston couldn't let the caliper float, and just squeezed the one side.
Caliper has to float.

whose brand caliper is shown on the rotor? It is the one you used?

When you mention the hardware kit, is that only the two 'pins' on each side?

I think those are ac delco from rock auto. Not sure, buy new not rebuilt. rebuilt anymore is pure poop

The "pins" are bolts, those come in the hardware kit, but the important part is the ss square covers that sit on the bracket that the caliper slides on.
clean all the rust off the bracket where they sit, but the sliders on, set the caliper on, install the bolts

Sliders are in the hardware kit too

Use new copper washers on the line, reusing copper washers don't work, they leak

Appreciate that explanation Skuzzy, one side on mine was missing a lower bolt. Did not have any ss covers either. 10-4 on the cleaning.

Not seeing any 'new' on Rock. Only remans. Have the Cardone now, will give them another closer look, still thinking of switching. Like to have a 'new' option to consider, or may be go with the motorcraft as I have the cores.

I see your right , they don't have any new, only rebuilt on rock auto
I also see I forgot, the brakes changed to bolts in 92, yours are still sliders.
The sliders need to be replaced, as they swell over time
Still need to clean the surfaces well, and there is a brake grease that got applied sparingly on the mount surface back in the day, probably still available
There is also a clip to keep the brake pad floating in there, makes everything go together nice

If your calipers are new, use them, just order a hardware kit

Makes sense now, the 'sliders' were frozen and one missing. These came with a kit which is just the sliders , banjo bolt, new nipples. Prolly be fine then. Didn't notice the clip for pads but will look again. Maybe used the grease then instead of the ss covers too.
Will give them a good test fit when we get there. :-X22

]Clip should come with the pds Goes on the end of the pad, sort of makes it "spring loaded" in there

The calipers came with one clip each side in the hardware pkg. Not sure how to affix it. Don't see any pics of it in situ. Link not viewable.
The pads do have the grease for the moving parts tho.

My calipers were rattling, po left them out. FRom what i found they go on bottom of inside pad, so thats where i put mine, kinda tricky to get in there
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tle-clips.html

Dandy KO ! Just what I needed to know. First time for me. Thanks for the reply.

Front suspension coming apart today. Wondering if there is any good reason to separate the control arms from the front axle, other than cleaning up the control arms? Wonder whats inside that space where the bolt goes? Bushing? Don't see it listed anywhere? Maybe just hollow space or solid?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...aecc71d991.jpg
Pull it apart to clean and paint??
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a52aa0ac4f.jpg
Get down and strip baby ! Going ahead with the Ball Joints as these are stiff on further inspection.

Loosen the ball joint nut at the top ball joint now, Loosen the bottom one and wind it almost to the end,don't take it off
Take a 2 lb hammer, and whack the swing arm where the ball joint enters the swing arm
It will drop down and then you take the nut off, to remove the spindal
Don't take anything apart until you do that, or you'll have a hellofa time getting that apart

You read my mind Skuzzy! Was about to ask about the best procedure to follow.
After spindle is off, what is the order for removal and replacing the actual ball joints?
What about the order for reinstalling the spindle?

What you think about separating the control arm from the axles? anything in there?

While the spindle is off will replace the axle bushings and the control arm bushings along with cleaning up the hard parts on the grinding wheel.
Got a bunk of other stuff to clean up too and its going to be storming with the wind blowing so ideal weather to carry the grinding debris out into the yard and beyond!
With the temps coming up for a few days should be able to get some rust converter applied and ready to get the front suspension back together in a few days completed.
Thanks for the advices.

No reason to remove the control arm other than the rubber bushing at frame.
there are 2 rubber grommets that you need to check between the 2 swing arm ( I beam)

I have to load pictures from the phone for the 4x2 ball joints, looked in my pictures in the lap top, they are all 4x4, and top ball joint is different