https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...fb07c981fd.jpg
Well, I don't want to advise beyond the depths of my knowledge, but the seems like since your mounting tabs line up with the bolt holes, you can't be THAT far off from fully seated. Did they sort of 'click' into the fuel rail? Mine did and I didn't experience the same sensation on the manifold side. They probably squish down a bit with time as the o-rings heat cycle etc. My old ones were all crusted with junk, gunk, and other underhood detritus so now the clean ones really pop off the manifold, visually. But they are seated just fine.

yep, the 'snap' onto the rail is much different that what the manifold side feels like, no worries on that side for me.
Think you may be right about the heat cycling and further seating with run time.
If the o-ring disappears, then will think they are far enough to make a good seal.
Yours look like they have made it down far enough to me.
Going to get some chow and give it another look later.
thanks for the pic and reply, Andy.

When I installed mine after cleaning them I had the entire time the feeling that they should go more in but they didn't. So far everything is running fine.

That's good to know Mini, will keep it in mind as I work through this later this morning.
May try to clear some of the crust from the openings with an appropriate diameter socket to ease the install.
Still seems that there is too much interference for a smooth install. Thanks for the reply!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a15b717927.jpg
Rail and new injectors back on and hooked in.
Calling it good. There was no space between the gasket and injector as it was all tightened up with the rail being secured, so believe this is as far as they are meant to go into the manifold.
NEXT!!

Lookin good! :-X22

Looking very similar to my truck. Down to the blue masking tape.

Yeah, it handy stuff Mini !
Latest probing shows that the single piston rotors are fried so new hub and rotors are in order as part of the brake system rebuild. Anyone know if most from Rock Auto come with the race installed? They don't seem to specify, which is one negative thing with them, no good way to gain additional information on the products offered. Any additional thoughts on the brakes and parts at this point?

Since I am this deep, will probably go ahead with the front suspension bushings and general clean up of the hard parts there. So much spotted rust. The rust converter products do a good job of stopping or neutralizing it.
Other progress includes removing the high pressure gas pump on the frame rail which was the last of the items tucked in there except for the brake, anti locking unit. Able to salvage the cage the pump was in, which surprised me, though that it would turn to dust when coming off! lol
Got some paint on the intake and alternator bracket so its ready to go back when time comes.
Question for the day is would you guys try to clean the INSIDE of the fuel lines from the tank??? The high pressure pump was carmelized with fuel, and with all the other components new hesitant to contaminate them with whatever may be in the lines as it begins to flow anew. Thinking of spraying injector cleaner in the front and blowing it back thru the lines at the fuel rail. Maybe carb cleaner instead? Not sure.
Skipping around some but here's what the rotors and pads looked like on the backside.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...9981043da0.jpg
Brakes look good! HA
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b7fa2040dc.jpg
Groovy man!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...010e1d6fb9.jpg
wore "slap out"
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f273412082.jpg
Rust never sleeps.... Till you neutralize or convert it !

I would just order the bearings with the races, then you are sure. I think the difference in price is like a dollar

More than likely the bottom end rotors have no races, top end do

If you order calipers, order loaded ones, they come with pads and a hardware kit


And yes, I would run something through the fuel lines, especialy between the injectors and the fuel filter

Have the calipers already, wishing they were fully loaded now. That's how we order our Po Boys, 'fully loaded'.
That's what I was thinking on the lines, prolly use injector cleaner.
10-4 on the bearings. Probably go ahead with the ball joints too since they are on the shelf. Don't know a good way to test for wear with the wheel off, they seem tight by hand check, but there is no load on them.....
Will get the frame rail clean and work back to the tanks, but have to change the leaf springs, shocks and clean the hard parts back there before tanks go back in. Slowly coming together.
thanks for your reply Skuzz

Actually you check ball joints with no load, but with the tire on
Jack the truck up, support by frame. wheel hanging, tire about 1" off the ground.
Have someone put a pry bar between the tire and the floor, and pry up and down, you wantch ball joints for play
If they move, replace, if not, good to go

Little secret, the tie rod ends, even if good will be bad once removed.

I agree.
keep up the good work. Soon it will look like my restored 95 Eddie Bauer

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...43f49442e5.jpg

Good lookin' calipers! Maybe not 'as' good, but a sight better than currently.
Will go ahead and change the ball joints since I have them.
Getting to more of the frame clean up so can proceed with the rest of the installs. Also the suspension components. Just dropped another order for more parts.
Will know what I am dealing with at any rate! Looking forward to getting a warm engine.

If you look on the swing arm, the old calipers are still hooked up in that picture, couldn't find a finished one

I used eastwood rust inhibiter on the metal parts, then covered that with the rubber undercoating from Walmart. goes on easy, easy clean up
Used it on another truck 10 years ago, other tha a little touch up from time to time, it holds up well