1961/78: You cannot go by the G TRANS code to ID the type of A/T .. You wanna know why!?

The IDIOTS at FoMoCo used the G TRANS code for ALL 1961/78 F100/350 Automatic Transmissions. One had to know which trans was available with what engine.

1979: The IDIOTS finally woke up: G = C4 & K = C6.

I like the cut of your jib! :-drink

Thanks for the information- hopefully the rain lets up a little tonight so I can put up the lights and run some tests.

A few more details might help
 

In case it's worn components being influenced by cold temperatures or even if heating individual components could help identify the issue, see my suggestion at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...elow-45-a.html

First, some pics.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...788ba6e733.pngFuel line I replaced. Lower arrow indicates location of leak I found.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...9a79f27d25.pngEverything in the red boxes is attached to the pos. Side of the battery. The ones in the box at right have their own fuses. At first, they also had ring terminals and were on the bat. Side of the solenoid, but there wasn't enough room on the new solenoid due to a shorter lug.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...bcf7d50ae5.jpgCurrent battery setup. Yeah its ghetto.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...feebaccad6.jpg
Diff angle. I only replaced the pos side battery cable, and solenoid. I put everything else back as I found it. Needs work I know.https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3533651665.jpg
Close up of solenoid. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...17f2feda38.jpgNew starter. I haven't tried it since the battery died last and it made some noises... I really hope I didn't damage it.https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f4ba59f01a.jpgCarbhttps://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...61858c49b7.jpgI have the choke ziptied open but I'm going to un-do that and test it to see if its working or not.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...40b000dd07.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...e5b44f3661.jpg
This all looks really.... Janky.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...dff4b98512.jpgA lot of ancient trailer stuff I'm probably going to rip out and replacehttps://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...90f3d04eb9.jpgFactory a/c is disconnected, and I think that doohickey in the upper right with the chain is cruise control (?) But its also disconnected.https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6ed983b3aa.jpgC4? C6? That chart seems to think 6. Cool B-)Going outside now to check some stuff with the voltmeter. Anyone know where the fuse box is on this truck? I havent found it.

So it appears that I do get 12v at the "I" post on the solenoid with the key set to Start (not cranking from the switch).

The starter is definitely making a different sound than it did before, I think I may have damaged it 😣, but sound like its still spinning fast.

when i bridge the pos post on the solenoid with a jumper cable to the starter side, it turns over but not continuously like when i crank with the key. Same for bridging to the "I" post.

Here is a video:

Any ideas? and also does anyone know if there is a way for coolant to leak into the intake through the carb spacer/coolant base? I'm tempted to reconnect it but i dont want to risk dumping coolant into the engine if its a common thing for them to develop leaks.

I think you should focus your troubleshooting on one issue at a time and not jump around....As in first, you had a question of "Crank, no start/run." Now you're onto a coolant leak. Is the vehicle running?......Did you fix the "No start" deal?

What do you want to do?

If I were you, I would CLEAN the engine and engine compartment first.....get rid of all the fire hazards on the engine and fix the spaghetti wiring. How can you see anything in/around the engine when it's a mess?

Have you done the tests recommended by 77&79F250 in post #2?

Again, what do you want to do?

Did you read the THREE updates, and not just the last post?

I did do those tests, reported back, and asked followup question two posts up...

​​​​​​And your reading comprehension needs work, I dont have any coolant leaks im trying to fix, i asked if the plate under the carb CAN leak into the intake when its hooked up- mine is not, and since its 30 degrees out, this is probably not helping, which is why i asked...

I don't want to fully clean the engine, not least of which because its 30 degrees and it was running fine a few days ago, but because i dont want to introduce water into an otherwise dry engine bay that has unknown open hoses and potentially electrical issues.. why would i pour water over that?? I just got this thing and dont know why some things are hooked up, why some aren't, what people commonly delete thinking it runs better or to bandaid other problems - THATS WHY I ASKED DUDE. I've been going through things one at a time, not jumping around, you need to try and see how its a chicken or egg problem in that it ran before, in the state its in, but i KNOW plenty of it is wrong. So "fixing" stuff may actually introduce NEW problems since i dont know why the previous owner disconnected.

It still cranks, but doesnt run, and the above tests showed the starter solenoid and switch are fine. Im now onto the coil and distributor items mentioned, but since I posted multiple followup questions, I'd suggest actually reading ALL of what I wrote.

What i want to do is get it running. Since the above tests checked out, followup questions. See above. The issue is the same as before, if you hold the key to the start position and play with the throttle it will fire off and rev like its going to be fine, but it only lasts a second or so and dies. It wont idle. Giving it more or less gas when it initially fires just kills it. If you hold the key over to keep the starter spinning the engine longer, it seems to try and stay running. The moment you let off the key back to just "on" it dies. But the voltage at the solenoid leaving the switch does check out at 12v with the key on.

Whoa! I guess you told me!

My reading comprehension needs work....Hmmmm. Regarding your not wanting to clean the engine....Did I ever say to use WATER to clean the engine? And if you want to leave a fire hazard on yer engine, well, that's your call. That says a lot (or not) about your "thoroughness" in troubleshooting.

And anything can leak coolant into the intake if it's in the near proximity..cracked heads, for one.....a little water gnome with buckets of anti freeze for another...

And I have read yer posts, start to finish but my reading comprehension is as bad as yours.

Now that the mutual azz kissing is done, let's move on to cases.

Crank, No start - Connect a test light from the TACH TEST coil terminal to a good ground. Have a helper crank her over whilst you observe the light.
It should blink.

What are the results?

The light blinks is the short answer.

The longer answer is I discovered dirty and loose and incorrectly terminated wires attached to the coil. I clipped them off, put on new ones (still wrong until my correct "horseshoe plug" arrives) but now clean and tight, and still behaves the same.

After reconnecting everything, my test light blinks when cranking when attached to the neg side of the coil.

Heres another video, and you hear it trying to fire.

Hello.. listening to your video I suspect an issue with one of 2 things. The electric side of the ignition switch or the dist pick up coil. Since you said your test light was blinking at the coil I assume the dist is ok. My truck did the same thing last year.. ignition switch fixed mine. Good luck and merry Christmas
Brent

Ok..your test light results are: solid when not cranking, blinks when cranked.


The blinking test light confirms the ICM is firing the coil (getting switched)...so the stator and ICM are good.


Coupla three more tests, but I think they will turn out good as it seems the primary ignition side seems good and the problem lies in the secondary side - distributor cap, plugs, wires or rotor.


You stated some of the wire on the coil were sorta loose, etc....check the rest of the wiring, too, in the following tests...


Primary side test 1 - stator test....yes, I know the "blink" test showed it being ok, but try it anyway, just to confirm - Disconnect the distributor at the three prong connection, clean the male/female spade terminals (I'll betcha they're corroded some).
Ohm out the PURPLE and ORANGE wires - you're looking for 400 - 1K ohms. Anything more or less than that, the stator is pooched....replace. The black wire is a ground and it should read infinity (basically open) between the ORANGE and PURPLE wires, and continuity to ground.
Yes, you have the DSII ignition setup....the colors to the distributor may/may not be the same, but the BLACK is always ground.



Primary side test 2 - ohm out the primary and secondary sides of the coil...primary wants to ~ 1.5 ohms, secondary ~ 8K - 11K ohms.


Primary side test 3 Ballast resistor wire voltage - Key ON, engine OFF. Test the voltage between the BATT (+) side of the coil to a good ground; 6-8 VDC is optimum....

From the second video, it seems she's wanting to start a bit more....and after you cleaned up some wires.....tell you anything?


Whatcha got, Pilgrim?

Well I just re-read every page and I don't see where you tested the ignition switch directly. I do see where you get a steady light when the key is on, so that means that at least one side of the switch is still semi-good. But did you test any of this with an actual volt-meter? Are you familiar with how bright the light should be lit when 12v is present? Maybe the light is dimmer than it should be. If not sure, then test it directly on the battery (if you haven't already) to get your standard.

I didn't see where you were testing either. You probably mentioned it and I'm forgetting. Sounds like it's at the coil? If it is just at the coil, try unplugging the ignition module from the harness (I know they're a bear, but maybe it's been off already by now) and check for voltage at the different wires. If the coil has power but the module does not, it still can act like what you're seeing.

What color is your module? Or more correctly, what is the color of your module's wire strain relief? This would dictate what color wires get power and when.

And from the video it sounds like there is a pretty big exhaust leak as well. Is something open still that you already know about? Or could that be coming out of your coolant port on the spacer?
If it's coming out of the spacer that might be your answer regarding the cracked spacer.

Sorry if you are already on top of that, and maybe you just left the exhaust disconnected. But I heard that and saw the open port this go-round so thought I'd bring it up.

Paul

Well, 1 Ton, you might have something there...but let me put some troubleshooting answers in order before I say it could be something different...correct me if I'm wrong.

OP has 12 VDC to the 'S' terminal in START. A good thing....that shows BATT voltage is getting to the solenoid, closing the contacts and turning the starter.

OP has 12VDC to the 'I' terminal in START. A good thing....that shows Batt voltage is getting to solenoid's BROWN wire and temporarily applying BATT voltage to the coil for a good start. However, she tries to keep going but croaks when let to RUN.
This initially tells me one of two things: The stator went south or the ballast resistor wire is shot....I'll get to those two in a moment.

OP did the blink test and the test light blinked in START. A good thing. That tells me the ICM is getting power, firing the coil and that the stator is fine. That eliminates the ICM and stator as possible causes of this illness.

We're waiting on the OP's coil ohmage tests as well as the ballast resistor wire's voltage reading.

Now, since the START/RUN wires (2 wires R/green at the ignition switch) are connected, and since the ballast resistor circuit is bypassed correctly in START (cranks over and wants to start) but poops out when let to RUN (the ballast resistor wire circuit), it's a good possibility the resistor wire gave up the ghost.

Why? Eh, she's runnin' decades old wiring. Sh&% happens.
Agree the OP should clean/check wiring and connections, especially the ignition circuit ground.
Agree the OP should test the ignition switch a bit better if nothing else than to eliminate it as a suspect.

I'll wait on the OP's ballast resistor wire and coil test results before stating, "This is the problem!" But I will go out on a limb here and post up the ballast resistor wire's specifics for a '76, because I have the time....hehe

Courtesy NumberDummy
COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).

61.49" long / Color coded pink / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire / All 1960/70 FoMoCo vehicles, some 1971/76's.

D1AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-84-A). ***Most common D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire (Motorcraft DY-213) Usually used 1973 and later.


60" long / Color coded red with green stripes / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #16 gauge wire / Some
1971/76 FoMoCo vehicles.

Resistor assy, ignition coil
Fits 73-77 All
Ford # C0LF-12250-A
Motorcraft # DY-37
20 ga wire color code pink 61 1/2" long

Any updates for us JSM?
Given up on the cold driveway and headed inside for some fire and food maybe?:-X03

Paul