Fuel bowl lid
 

I am installing the original fuel bowl lid on my truck along with a factory filter. The new filter came with a beveled seal and so did the new lid. I only use one with the bevel facing up correct?

I would love to see this answer in print. The new OEM filters come with a diagram drawn so small I can't read it. I always put it on the way the old one came off. But I have no way of knowing whether the PO - 8 years ago - did it right or whether I've switched it around once or twice...

And there should two o-rings, one on the filter near the bottom as well as the one you're asking about.

Yes, the o ring on bottom I got but I put one of the beveled seals on under the lid. I looked online and the picture only showed the one under the lid.

I only mentioned it because I ran without it for about six months. :-banghead

That's no good. This truck had a wix filter on it and I am not a fan of non Motorcraft filters. If you look at the seals, the other brands have flat edges where the Ford ones have bevels. I'd like to imagine there is a reason for that.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...2cc64d9cfe.jpg

Right. Apparently the new lid just came with the same seal the new filter did. Another question though. What is this part by the oil filter? Not sure if I got oil on it or what yesterday when I changed it.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c26d6a8846.jpg

That would be your oil cooler. If you decide to reseal it make sure you only get OEM seals and not autoparts ones as they dont last.

Ah, ok. So is it probably safe to leave for a couple weeks? That's the first time I've noticed a damp spot

The cooler has both low pressure oil and coolant in it. So it's possible for internal leaks to put oil into the coolant (when running, 20-50psi oil vs. 15psi coolant), or after shutting down a hot engine put coolant into the oil (hot 15psi coolant vs. 0psi oil). As well as leak oil/coolant onto the ground. Just check your fluids.

Remove and rebuild requires draining the radiator/block, so a good time for a coolant flush if not done recently. That you should plan ahead for, see this link.

I'm sending out an oil analysis so I supposed that would tell if it was in the oil. Have the original reservoir for the coolant so it's a little discolored but the small amount of coolant I pull out look pretty clear and green. How difficult is it to remove the oil cooler from the block and then replace it back to it's spot?

I have never done it, but from what I hear, it is one of the more not-so-fun jobs to do.

Oil cooler
 

I did some reading and sounds like pressing it together to get a good seal and the fact that it's messy are the bad parts. Now sure what it entails to weasel it in and out of it's spot.

It's not bad. Mostly it's the mess and cleanup, and putting it back on. I got a long bolt and cut the head off, and screwed it in one of the front holes, and used it as a guide to slide the thing into place while I installed the other bolts. I can't remember which hole I used, but the "pin" was just long enough to remove with my fingers. I do this trick for most things with gaskets / o rings to keep me from screwing them up.