2017 Oil Analysis Thread 6.7 PSD
 

Hi everyone.

I performed my first oil change after owning the truck just about 1 month and having racked up 2,302 miles in that time.

After accumulating 1,400 miles I did my first tow.

I own a Mesa Ridge 328 BHS TT and it weighs just under 10,000 lbs dry. We have been on 2 trips and since they were just long weekends we did have it loaded down so I'm guessing we were hauling around 11,000 lbs.

I also did what most people would consider is a hard break in. Lot's of negative compression down hills in an attempt to better seat the rings and help provide variety for the rest of the drivetrain. I do a modified version of the Moto Man Method.

The goal for my first oil changes on all my cars has been to get the contaminants out of the engine and not follow

I will probably do my next oil change again near the 2,500 mile range and then extend to 5,000 then 10,000 miles depending on what Blackstone reports to me.

I will keep posting the results of each oil change here.

Thanks.

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As a mechanic, I'm wondering what "negative compression" is?

I guess it's my term for engine braking. Putting compression against the rings in a way they typically don't get early on during the break in procedure.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

So less pressure than normal?

What I do is long, extended engine braking downhill. So for the F250 with a low redline of just 4,000 RPM on the PSD I did 2,200-2,500 RPM engine braking down 1/2 mile hills that are pretty steep. I do this a few dozen times in the first 300 miles. I wouldn't say less pressure just maybe different pressure for the rings.

Well, that's a lot less cylinder pressure than going up the hill.
Whatever works for you I guess!

Thanks. Ever since I started doing this with my gas engines I have not had one that burns oil. Typically keep my cars until 150,000. The easy break in like the manufactures want us to do lead to cars burning oil at the 80,000 to 125,000 mark.

We will see what happens with the PSD and this thread can help track progress.

I have a new 2017 F350 and I was wondering if there are any tips on changing oil. I changed my 6.0 since 2005 with no issues.

Don't misjudge how far the oil will come out laterally when you first remove the bolt, and get a fumoto valve.

2 tips.

1. Don't use a Walmart style oil collector for the oil from the pan. 99% chance it will over flow.

2. Poke a hole in either the bottom or side of the oil filter to drain the oil from the filter. You won't believe how much oil comes out of the oil filter if you don't do this. It's easy to do with a small hammer and a pick or small head philips.

Here's a thread I started on this topic.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-tips.html

What is a fumoto valve and where do I find one?

What type or brand of oil is recommended?

I have been using Delo 400 in all the other diesel engines that I have.

The valve is a quick drain valve. Just google it. I didn’t install the one sent to me because I didn’t feel it had long enough threads to stay secure. It’s a mess free oil change so I decided to keep this part stock.

Ford has a new oil requirement for the 6.7. Just make sure whatever oil you use meets that standard.

Just Be mindful that if the threads are too long...

What is a fumoto valve and where do I find one? Don't need one nor do you need to punch holes in the filter.

What type or brand of oil is recommended? Only what is accepted to Fords standard.

I know...I wasn't looking for them to be longer than the stock drain plug...I just wanted them close to the same and they are short enough for me to skip the fumoto for now.

Here is the Ford standard for the 6.7 PSD. WSS-M2C171-F1

I believe this is the latest updated on approved oils meeting the above standard.

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...SSM2C171F1.pdf

Hi Guys...I posted this over on the 6.7 forum page but I know many of us don't go over there as often as here.

Just got back the virgin oil analysis on the AMSOIL Max Duty Synthetic 5w40 I sent in a few days ago.

The new Ford spec main difference has to do with Phosphorus. Oils with less than 1,000 PPM they were seeing accelerated valve train wear. Likely if your CK-4 oil had more than 1,000 PPM then you got approved to the new standard...WSSM2C171-F1.

Looks like this AMSOIL comes in with a score of 1,233. Much higher than what is required by the new F1 standard.

So while this oil is not on Fords approved list it seems to check all the correct boxes.

I may eat my words...but when I get the oil analysis of this exact oil I will post that...Fingers crossed this oil performs.

Someone should send it a virgin sample of T6 to Blackstone to see what those results are. Or Schaeffer for that matter. Could be interesting!

Here is an article with details on the new F1 standard.

https://noln.net/2017/06/30/new-dies...ords-reaction/


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0e62bd772.jpeg

I just received my AMSOIL Signature Series analysis back. 5w40 weight.

Seems like this engine likes this oil.

Its breaking in nicely. I will go 5,000 miles this run and then decide on how long my next run will go after that next analysis comes back.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...46760e291.jpeg

Wow, very impressive!

Hi Guys,

Just got my latest oil analysis back from Blackstone. This was nearly a 5,000 mile run. It looks like my wear metals are at or below universal averages. This seems to be the trendline for me and AMSOIL...which is why I like the oil. I will go at least 7,000 miles on this next interval and we will see how it works out.

Thanks.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...b7439fdcd.jpeg

I think Ricohman is being a bit harsh. You don't NEED a Fumoto valve but if you're doing your oil changes in your garage or on your driveway, it makes it a lot nicer. Also, you don't NEED to poke a hole in the oil filter to drain it but it keeps your arm dryer and makes less mess.

Just got my latest oil analysis back from Blackstone. Another solid report for the AMSOIL and my engine.

This was my longest OCI at 6,450 miles between oil changes. We are getting ready to go on a long trip with our TT and I wanted fresh oil in their for the mountain work the engine will be doing. I still had a TBN of 5.4 showing lot's of protection left in the oil. I did about 1,500 of those 6,450 miles towing a 10,000 TT...some of them in temps down around 5 degrees F.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3bb0c9643.jpeg

What's the explanation for the high copper and silicon?

A vacuum?:confused:

Just got mine back yesterday on my 2nd oil change.

Following oil changes as indicted by the truck's display. My first oil change was at 5770 miles (mainly warm weather driving), and oil change #2 was at 8890 miles (3120 miles of mainly cold weather driving).

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...4cb2acab07.jpg

Not likely in a diesel motor.

Just got my latest oil analysis. Now at nearly 25,000 miles and the AMSoil is performing great. I put 7,591 miles on this oil change interval. No dash indicators to change the oil but this is my longest run so far. Blackstone is recommending to go to 10,000 miles because the oil and engine are performing so well...and the TBN was 4.2 meaning a ton of active protection remaining in the oil even after 7,500 miles. Happy with this engine and oil.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...15ab21fdc.jpeg

2nd oil change at 12,422 miles. Shell Rotella T6 for both oil changes and using Motorcraft oil filters. I'm strictly changing oil when the truck tells me to. Looking good so far. It will be interesting following this process over time. For as little as it costs, I plan to send in a sample each time I change oil, as documentation, should I ever have a problem or need proof of maintenance.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3b5dc8c433.jpg

Phosphorus over 1,000 was the change in the new F1 requirement from Ford.

Virgin oil analysis.
 

So what im reading is essentially Blackstone recommending.....10k mile oil changes....kind of like FORD does! Imagine that....