Do I just keep cranking? New HPOP and Injectors
 

Hey all, i recently did the following work:

New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter

Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.

ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system.

I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?

Thanks,
Myles

Does the ICP get better with each try? Keep a battery charger on it, or the idm won't fire with low voltage. Also make sure you have fuel pressure.

It seems to be staying around the 240-250 range and then drops down after extended cranking.

It's on a 30amp charger while doing it and i've got a mechanical gauge showing fuel pressure.

The only other options I can think of are to do the "Cody" test, pull the hpo line and put 100 psi shop air to the oil rail and listen for gurgling. Do a search on Cody test. Also you can deadhead the hpop and put a 3k psi gauge on it. It should peg the gauge within a couple of seconds of cranking. You do have the IPR plugged in, right?

When I did my injectors, I was surprised at how much cranking it took to build ICP.

Can i ask how the Cody test is suppose to help remove air from the lines by putting air in the lines? Or is that not the point of it?

I'd crank a bit more, sounds like your airbound.

2 cents.

The hpop is topped off right?

Level?

If you continue to crank and you don't build ICP pressure you mitt have a bad o-ring of the injector install. You can fill the oil rail and HPOP to speed things up but I just turned it over in no start in my DP tuner a few times, then put it back to run and it fired right up. Did your IPR come loose? How did it run before?

HPOP is full

Injectors were new swamps, but i'm in denial about having to pull the injectors again but that may be a possibility

I bought a new IPR and installed it on the HPOP before install.

Truck ran fine before...just needed to change glow plugs and uvch so i decided to do injectors and hpop while i was there.

I guess the bigger question is how many cranks is too many cranks before you have an issue worth tearing crap apart again?

It won't help with priming, but I'd rather do the Cody test to check for a ripped O ring than to pull all the injectors and have to replace the copper washers. If the oil rail holds 120 psi for a couple of minutes, then you can start looking elsewhere. If you have a helper, you can have them crank it while you make sure you're getting 12v to the IPR plug, or you can supply 12v to the IPR and see if the ICP goes any higher.

It can take quite a while. I recall it was more than I was comfortable with- thought there might be something wrong.

Keep a charger on your batteries and keep them charged while cranking.

Don't keep pulling parts off or you'll just keep getting air back in the system.

Did you pull the fill plug on top of the HPOP reservoir? You can pull it off (allen screw) and fill it with new oil. It should be withing about an inch from the top.

With the new IPR, make sure you have the parts in the right order and the tin nut is on firmly.

Keep in mind, you don't want it to start unless the oil is flowing where it should, without too much air :-X22

Expect a LOT of smoke when it first starts. It might be loud and a little unsteady at first, but after the first hour of running, it will clear up :-drink

Ran it through 3 crank cycles this morning. Duty cycle is down to 64% and pressure is at 260-270.

If you think that the issue is ICP related due to air, there are a couple of things you can do.

Try unplugging the ICP sensor during one of the cranking cycles to see if you can "trick" the PCM into firing the IDM and thus the injectors. This will cause the PCM to resort to default values for ICP.

Even though you see oil in the rails, you can remove the ICP sensor and the corresponding plug on the passenger side head and crank the engine over with those removed until you see oil coming out of those holes in the oil rail. This will be a bit messy but will purge the majority of the air quickly. As soon as you see oil coming out of one or both holes, plug that hole with the appropriate sensor or plug. I have to do this on the truck in my sig for some reason.

Make sure you are seeing above 10.5 volts during the cranking cycles. The PCM will sometimes allow the engine to start with it below that.

You could also replace the new IPR with the old one.

The IDM needs to see RPM's (good battery & starter), 10Vdc voltage (battery) and 500psi ICP to fire the injectors. If your dash oil pressure gauge is moving, as the sensor is in the HPOP reservoir, then you should have enough LPOP oil pressure to fill the HPOP reservoir.

If the ICP sensor has failed, then pulling the wire to that will send a default ICP signal that will allow the IDM fire. If it still doesn't start or run well, then you truly have an ICP problem.

Check the IPR connection and the tin nut that holds the IPR solenoid on the IPR. If the solenoid is loose, it may prevent the IPR from working correctly.

Otherwise, you could have a bad IPR out of the box. Others have had that problem before. Changing the IPR can be done without removing anything else, it's just a little annoying. If you remove the tin nut and solenoid, a 1-1/8" 6 point deep socket can be used to remove it. I used a 1/2" deep impact socket - I just can't fit the socket entirely onto the drive handle or it's slightly too short. Do you still have the old one? It worked before, so it's good and it will show you what I mean about the socket and the tin nut.

This can all be done before going back into the injectors. The Cody test is a way of checking whether you have an HPOP system leak by using compressed air. Good luck!