Sorry, didn't correlate you being the OP on that one.

Anyway, just a thought, check the play in your hub while your at it. Roll it and listen for any bad sounds. Should be none. This can also help with understanding the problem in the brakes.

OK, I will get flamed for what I am writing below. It is considered heresy, but it is based on my extensive personal experience with DW and how I eventually cured it.

In my experience of chasing down Death Wobble, it has nothing to do with the track bar, ball joints, or caster. Yes, find and replace worn components, I am only saying some brand new Fords and Dodges with coil springs and solid axles have DW right from the factory - brand new!

I spent $3,000 with the 4x4 converter only to have the DW return in 2 years. The only thing that made it go away for a while was replacing the front tires (with half the tread left!) with new ones (Toyo AT's). I then bought a used 600lb. Snap-on torque wrench and checked my track bar bushings myself. They were fine (they were only 2 years old after all).

Don't focus on what "initiates" the DW. You can and should fix that (i.e., by replacing a warped rotor, replacing a warn bushing or ball joint, etc.). But DW is cured by damping the tie rod.

Here is the ugly truth, if your suspension has the propensity to "propagate DW" then something will initiate it, and you will be chasing down that initiating event, rather than curing the DW from propogating. (I mean it is not a single isolated bump steer that scares you correct? It is the resulting "wobble" back and forth that can kill you going downhill into a turn on an icy road with a big rig coming towards you uphill or when you are going downhill pulling a tandem one yard concrete mixer. Both of which I have experienced with DW.)

Adding the Energy Suspension track bar bushing and tightening up the steering box (both of which I did) just makes the propagation more efficient and more likely to oscillate more violently making the tie rod more efficiently transmit the bump from one wheel to the other!

So here goes, "Death Wobble" is caused by one tire (e.g., the left) hitting a bump and pushing through the tie rod up against the other tire which pushes back and continues the back and forth punching until the wheels stop rotating.

This is because a rotating tire (especially a larger than stock tire) is a rotating mass which has gyroscopic inertia which engineers may call "angular momentum." *

A rotating tire wants to spin around its horizontal axis. For example, push a spinning top off-center (i.e., off the axis of its spin) and it immediately and violently bounces back to spin on its vertical axis. So that's what must be happening with the wheels in DW. Anything can push the spinning wheel off of its horizontal axis. A bump in the road, the other tire punching the wheel through the tie rod, etc., but when your tire is bumped off its axis, that spinning tire wants to return to spinning on its horizontal axis so the tire moves to re-center itself which causes a push through the tie rod to the opposite tire which sets up the same reaction in the opposing tire and it repeats until the rotation of the wheels is stopped, killing the gyroscopic effect.

DW is a "turning" or "steering" event. That is propogated by your tie rod. That is why your steering wheel rapidly turns back and forth during DW. And that is why damping the tie rod eliminates DW.

So if you just want the DW to stop, then install dual opposing gas pressurized SHOCKS to damp the tie rod. Opposing gas pressurized shocks push against each other thereby cancelling each other out and, thus, do not put any pressure on the steering box while an opposing dual stabilizer set up (a stabilizer has resistance both pushing in and pulling out) would create tremendous resistance on the steering box (possibly causing premature wear and looseness).

Starting on page 4 here is my version of the dual opposing gas pressurized shock steering stabilizer set up:

Sportsmobileforum.com ? View topic - Quadvan Death Wobble

For you engineers, this is how bcaine on the sportsmobileforum explained DW:

"DW originates when:
1) one tire is jarred,
2) and through the tie rods this jarring is transferred to the other tire.
3) Then (not by the spring like nature of the opposing tire's sidewall) but rather by the fact that the angular momentum of the other wheel will be conserved it will resist being pushed and
4) create a sort of Third Law Force back on the first wheel, which
5) has its own angular momentum to conserve, thus SHM ensues?

If so, does a damper (really wondering if i picked the right one) dissipate some energy from the system thus bringing a more immediate end to the SHM?"

In summary, for those of you who have had DW, you wouldn't drive your truck without vertical shocks at each wheel to damp the sprung mass of the body, would you?

So why would you drive your truck without horizontal shocks connecting the tie rod to the differential to damp the horizontal gyroscopic effect of especially larger than stock tires you have put on the front of your truck?

Finally, anyone who says that dual opposing gas pressurized shocks used as a steering stabilizer are just "masking" the underlying problem is . . . in polite words: "mistaken."

For those of you who believe that . . . , please take off the vertical shocks at each of the four wheels on your truck and see if you like driving it while it bounces uncontrollably up and down without the benefit of "masking" which the vertical shocks provide by dampening the vertically sprung mass of your truck's body.

The internet is an echo chamber of misinformation. I have read lengthy posts by people who have never had Death Wobble telling other people who have it that it is their track bar or their ball joints or their caster -- even on brand new F350's!

IMHO, there should be a moratorium on people who have never had DW from suggesting to others how to fix it.

[Flame suit on, visor down...]

* My initial hypothesis that it was the "punch and rebound of an air-filled rubber tire" which causes the back and forth steering (wobble) transmitted through the tie rod is wrong.

I'll try cleaning the pins tomorrow and checking the pistons. Is there a good way to go about checking the pistons if you are alone? Also, if I find uneven wear on the pads, warped rotors and bad pistons, I have read that its almost worth buying new calipers rather than rebuilding the old ones. I found a replacement kit from PowerStop "KC1905-36" for $305 shipped. That has all the items in the picture included. Thats about what 2 Cryo Power Slot rotors alone would cost me. Would you recommend a kit like that? Seems to get good reviews.

I have that exact kit. It has served me well with one exception. Some of the pad spreader springs rub on the rotor until they are about half as thick. Didn't have this issue on OEM calipers or ART Cryo rotors I had. They are definitely a fell swoop fix for braking issues at the wheel. But understand, I had no death wobble and it was only felt during braking. I only did this because I had a frozen/sticking piston and decided to do it all at one time for a good price.

I understand. I am just trying to get my ducks in a row in case I need to buy a brake system. I remember you saying swap both calipers at one time if I have to swap one and to check for uneven pad wear. Do you have a good method I can use to press the piston out to check for rust and pits? Press the pedal with caliper off the disc? Will the piston retract after I let off the pedal? I cant find a good guide for this.

Good to have a backup plan. I count it as solid. Yes, swap both at the same time. If you replace one and the other is more worn and less effective, you'll be left with uneven braking and brake wear. Every manual, every decent shop and ever school should tell you the same. When you replace rotors, replace pads and replace both in pairs on front or rear. Similar reasons above. When I checked my pistons, I used a c-clamp and pushed one in enough to push the other out. If you press on one, the other should float out. When pressing them back in for remounting new pads, you press them together. I cut a piece of steel out to press both together. Normally the issue with these are the seals going bad and allowing contaminates into the cylinder area, which causes scoring, sticking and freezing. (That's not to say bad old and contaminated fluid and water in fluid is not a common problem that leads to brake surging and failure in calipers.) Some people rebuild calipers, but for the time required, I opted not to b/c it's my main transportation. I have heard mixed success with this and there is always the possibility that a cylinder wall will be scored beyond rebuild. They are too cheap to replace whole than rebuild in my opinion.
The pistons will not retract when you let go of the pedal. You must press them back in. Youtube it. There are bunches on videos on even our truck.

Finally, I will not disagree with the above concerning steering stabilizers. I intend on putting one on mine as well, but I do not have the DW so it's not particularly high on my list as I have must things to do at the moment.
Duel opposing would be nice, but I think a single stock style will be fine for me since I don't have the DW problem. I would not advice against a double for you though, it can only help IMHO.
But what I will say is that aggressively seeking out the contributing items to that problem is a good idea. Those items only get worse with time.
As many have said, DW can come from anything from the physics stated above to anything in the front end suspension. The more worn parts, the easier it comes to you. I say why not shore up the whole system.

Believe me, I'd like to torque every steering / suspension bolt to spec, replace all 4 shocks, add the dual stabilizer, upgrade the brake system, and replace all the bushings from the leaf springs to the sway bars. I ordered a big torque wrench and 8 impact sockets to do the pitman and trac bar if need be. Tomorrow I'm going to start the servicing of the front 2 calipers and probably do the front bearings while I'm at it. Just taking it one step at a time. I got the truck for a good price and have fixed a few things here and there. I'd say I have plenty of equity to get the suspension/braking/steering components back up to par. Truck runs and rides great. Until the wobble thing took over I'd drive this truck anywhere with 338k on it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1447607441

Left Inner Tie Rod End

I had a Raybestos unit go bad in about a year, so I'd stick with a Moog or XRF.

Also a good thread for more part numbers/info/diagrams LINK

The causes, and the cure, for death wobble in a 3 link coil suspension can be different than a front leaf suspension.

If the steering dampeners were an absolute essential component for vehicle stability, then for liability reasons alone, they might be installed on all Super Duties, in fact, on all vehicles with two front steering tires, whether 2wd or 4wd. Yet, steering dampeners are not found on all vehicles as original equipment. Nor on all Super Duties.

CPYE2, from your last description of symptoms, it seems fitting to start with the left front brakes, inspecting for uneven pad wear comparing the inner and outer pad. Check for smooth operation of the slide and caliper pistons.

How long was ATF in your brake system? I wonder if there is some chemical incompatibility with an ingredient in ATF and an elastomeric in the caliper. Oils can cause some rubber to swell substantially, which could shift a seal out of place.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...reaks-out.html

I only splashed the top of the already full to MAX reservoir with ATF. Maybe 2-3 oz tops. I pumped out the entire reservoir prior to driving the truck and then bled the brakes. I then pumped out the reservoir again and topped off with more brake fluid. The truck did sit almost 2 weeks before I could do this, but it appeared that the ATF in the reservoir separates itself from the brake fluid and floats to the top. I will start on the left wheel today and try to get around to the right wheel by tomorrow. I'm going to service the hubs and bearings while im at it, and may need to order parts along the way due to the age of things on the vehicle, so it may be a few days before I can drive again. Especially with the holiday approaching.

Death wobble is not natural. Some thing is causing it, and hiding it with a damper might feel better. But its a dangerous issue that still exists. If your wheels are going back and forth and the cure is a damper, then you need an alignment. Properly aligned wheels don't death wobble, and don't push back and forth. I'd look for the issue, and as stated several times, start at the wheels and work your way in. With your mileage I'd say you have a whole lot going on. Lots of leaks dumping on bushings and joints contaminating them and causing damage. You probably need brake work, ball joints, tie rods, etc etc. I don't have death wobble, but with 196k miles , mine is due for the whole works too. Did brakes last year. The whole axle is moving side to side as indicated when I noted the polish on the sway bar bushing area. So that would point to a whole lot of bushings and joints that could be moving so little you cant see, but combined move a whole lot. With all that mess under there, I would go for the full pull and go all stock new bushings joints brakes , the whole deal. Its time any way if you like your truck and plan on keeping it. Don't bash me, its my 2 cents worth, and an opinion, not an expert at all.

Absolute: I won't bash you, your opinion is common. Hopefully the OP will come back and tell us what his results are after doing all the work you suggested to tighten up the suspension. But I will bet you the following:

Tightening up the suspension on a vehicle which is prone to DW will actually increase its propensity to DW.

Think about what you just wrote. You have a truck with alot of suspension wear and 196K miles on it. And ... you don't have ... Death Wobble.

Some new trucks have Death Wobble. Those new trucks have no worn bushings, etc.

There is no difference between damping the horizontal movement of the wheels through the tie rod and damping the vertical movement of the wheels with shocks. That is why Ford's E350 Ambulance package comes with a "steering" stabilizer. DW is a turning i.e., "steering" movement initiated by the wheels and transmitted to the opposite wheel through the tie rod. Damping unwanted movement of mass is usually not a bad idea and, as we have seen from the sportsmobileforum.com link I provided, is required for some, but not all, vehicles. Damping the tie rod cures DW. Period.

cpye2: I have gone down the route you are going down. Do it. Then let us know your experience. If it cures your DW great. Post it up. We will all learn through your experience. If it doesn't cure it, consider what I have written. But for all of our sake, please continue to post your experience here.

Y2KW57: You know how much I respect you and your knowledge and experience. That broken track bar mount looks like a result of the violent DW, which I have experienced, rather than its cause...

I'm not saying your suggestions aren't a valid solution. I just know my truck has issues, besides the wobble, that are results from ignoring routine maintenance. My truck is a former DOT truck and was probably maintained really well its first 200-300k miles. It was purchased by an older fellow who was retired and didn't have answers to some of the questions I asked. Overall, the truck runs and rides great, and has not been much trouble. I got a great price on it. I have been going thru the maintenance that you expect an enthusiast to perform regularly that was probably neglected by the old man. The reason I want to replace the bushings, and check the brakes is because I know its more than past due on this vehicle and if not now, then soon it will become an issue. I do not want to break down or have to be towed. Ever. I use this truck everyday but have another vehicle to get to and from work and to the parts store in emergency. While I am working on certain things, it only makes sense to go the extra mile do things like grease the needle bearings, check torques, and check brake pads since the truck is partially disassembled. The stabilizer may be in my future but right now I'm fixing what I know is acting up. May not eliminate death wobble, but I can't really test the truck safely like it right now.

cpye2: Go for it. But again have your wheels spin balanced and checked for either an out of round wheel or an out of balance tire, or an out of round tire, or a broken cord in a tire, or a bulge in the tread or sidewall in a tire, or all of the above. Stand near the tire technician when he does the spin balancing and observe.

Spin balancing is cheap and, IMO, you really do want to first rule out the wheels/tires as the initiating event of the wobble. To stop the wobble from propogating, damping the tie rod is the cure.

BTW, the reason I asked about larger than stock tires, is because the suspension on most trucks seems to be designed to control only a certain amount of rotating mass. And adding more rotating mass by a installing a larger than stock tire/wheel can seemingly push the stock suspension past its ability to damp that mass. I.e., causing flexing in the tie rod, distortion in bushings, ball joints, etc.

And yes, if your DW initiates when you apply the brakes, then suspect that a warped rotor is causing the entire wheel and tire to commence wobbling.

The steering box is hydraulic, so it is a shock absorber of sorts. It provides some tie rod damping but it cannot damp more mass than it was designed for. And my guess is that the stock steering is designed just robust enough to prevent DW -- in most, but unfortunately, not all vehicles. Again, that is likely why some brand new Dodge and Ford trucks have DW.