Okay gang the original steel line on the 64, running from pump to carb is long gone or most of it. The Holley inlet is on the opposite side anyway so it wouldn't really fit. Not quite ready to bend tubing and flare just yet? Also installed a pump that has a filter inside, so now can get rid of inline.filter. There's a filter at the carb inlet too. Can get rid of half a dozen hose clamps this way and potential leaks.
A gazillion places sell these 3' stainless braided hose kits with aluminum fittings, though from the photos none of them look like they have standard flared 1/2" fittings for mechanical fuel pump and carb. What am I missing? Some more fittings probably? What's the deal or, who makes a plug and play kit with flared fuel fittings don't want to make a career out of this project. Thanks. |
Could you buy a prebent hardline from a Mustang supplier and get it close to the inlet, then go with a rubber hose from there?
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Originally Posted by Shadowrider123
(Post 15012108)
Could you buy a prebent hardline from a Mustang supplier and get it close to the inlet, then go with a rubber hose from there?
Talked to NAPA and they sell chunks of hard line. Think I will pick up some that and a tube bender? Just like the idea of no hose clamps, or rubber line to deteriorate, especially with crossover exhaust. |
Im getting rid of my crossover ASAP.
Where is your inlet? Front, back, or side? I don't see a problem with vibration, Ford used hardlines for many years. |
On the passenger side, so it has to have more than a couple bends. Yeah, I had a mess of old hard line, and worn out fittings, hose clamps, rubber hose filter, more hard line and rubber, etc. Nice new single line and fittings makes things mo better.
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Went with the braided steel flex line many years ago and found it works great, just a matter of detaching at the carb and shift when working on carb and/or engine. They come precut with end pieces attached, or 'do it yourself' kits. Use caution if decide to go this route using the kit, couple different types, one requires special tools, the kit I used did not and the person behind the counter did not know the difference, then it's just a matter of selecting the correct size, shape, and type AN fittings; 6,8, 10 AN, and thread count and shape. If the Carb inlet is on the opposite side may want to consider some type of crossover at the carb???
Posting a link for pic's only, auto shops should carry them. http://www.summitracing.com/search/s...=AN%20fittings |
Thanks Dave! Went ahead and got a tube bender and some 5/16 line. No muss no fuss.
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Post some pics of the results.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Shadowrider123
(Post 15012808)
Post some pics of the results.
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To eliminate the sharp bend may want to consider coming off the pump w/ a 90 degree threaded nipple??
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That would work, though think I can make a tighter bend OK by using a socket or something like that. Going to have to hang my head in shame and buy more fuel line.
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
(Post 15014756)
That would work, though think I can make a tighter bend OK by using a socket or something like that. Going to have to hang my head in shame and buy more fuel line.
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Understand one can use a spring slightly larger dia. than the fuel line is less likely to kink. If going this route suggest flare the end near the pump and install the fitting first before bending then after making the bend install the fitting and flare the end at the carb.
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What am I missing? I think that looks fine. If you try to go much tighter, it will just collapse with the wrong tool, i.e. a socket. The average 90 degree nipple or elbow will just make a tighter bend which is not ideal.
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Had to use a short length of hose to make that one work. My tube bending skills need practice. The Holley has the fuel inlet on the pax side so it needs a pretty sharp bend at on both ends to make it work. This will work for now. Not so much a tighter bend but closer to the outlet on the pump. Running better than ever!
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Closer to the outlet is easy. Make the bend then flare it. It only needs a single flare and even cheap flare tools tend to do those pretty well.
You can also buy the tubing in bulk, like 25' coils, for example. It's not very expensive and you get a lot to practice with. Sell the bad ones as abstract art. |
Originally Posted by charliemccraney
(Post 15017754)
It's not very expensive and you get a lot to practice with. Sell the bad ones as abstract art.
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The flare used has to do with pressure. Carburetor fuel lines are much lower than brake line.
Sand does help. I don't understand why you would want to go through all that trouble, though. The radius in your picture is fine. If anything, you want the radius to be larger, not smaller and you have enough room that there is no sense in making it smaller. If you cut and flare the tubing after you bend, it will be close enough to the pump. |
Well the pre-cut flared tubes are in 10" increments. 40" is way too much, 30" is almost not enough. These are double flared, fwiw. Dual use, but who uses 5/16 brake line? Hm. I bought a new section and got it to work just carefully bending the last route to the carb by hand. (argh!)
Feels a LOT better knowing there aren't any hose clamps or rubber hose around hot exhaust manifolds. |
Tedster, how does that 21256 lower radiator hose fit?
Is it the proper size on both ends? I have a flex hose on my 64, but would like a molded hose. |
It's the "correct" hose afaik, works fine, don't even think I had to cut it to length. Re-installed existing spring from old hose. For some reason new lower radiator hoses don't come with springs anymore? Guess they aren't needed, so they claim. Have my doubts.
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