Mobile 1 oil filter
 

I just did my first 5.4 ford triton oil change and used 5w20 mobile 1 and a mobile 1 oil filter because it came with the oil. Is this an acceptable filter or should I switch it out to a motor craft?

Th mobile1 filter should be fine. Just don't use fram

Mobil 1 filters are good filters, just costly.

Good to know, thanks.

I gotta ask, why not Fram? I just put a PH-2 on my 4.6! What's the issue?

Various studies on oil filer design and quality show that the Fram (the orange and some "tough" branded filters) do not have the anti-drainback valve.

The "valve" is basically a stiff rubber diaphragm which sits inside the filter that prevents the oil from draining back into the oil pan when the engine is not running. Especially when the engine has been shut down for the day...

The rubber diaphragm (the Anti- Drain - Back valve) prevents a "dry startup". If the oil has to recirculate and refill the oil filter before full pressure builds up, the engine will run somewhat dry until the filter is filled with oil first.

With the anti-drain back valve, oil is already in the filter ready for the next engine startup.

The oil pressure pushes open the rubber diaphragm when the engine is running.

I found out a while ago that motorcraft oil filters are identical to the Mobile -1 filters which are good quality (only difference is that it's a few dollars cheaper cost wise)

This makes sense. Ever since my oil change, my start ups have been quite bit noisier. Suspected that an anti-drain back valve could be the issue. Thanks for the info!!!

I've used NAPA Gold 1372 on all my 5.4L ford trucks.

NAPA Gold are re-branded Wix, and Wix are also excellent filters.
I have almost always used Wix filters on my other vehicles, but with the Motorcraft filters being only $3.75 or less @ Walmart and having a silicone ADV like the Wix with equivelant filtration, why spend $7 on a Wix when the Motrcraft will work just as well for about 1/2 the price.
One of the few times that the OEM filter is just as good (or better in many cases) than aftermarket, is cheaper (even cheaper than the orange can Fram) and readily available.

I took off the Fram filter last night and installed a Purolator Gold with a silicone ADV. When I first installed the Fram, it was a bitch to get the thing spun on. Thought it was just the design. With the Purolator, had a hell of a time lining it up and spinning it on. Seems like it has to be lined up absolutely perfect. Never had an issue like this with any car or truck.

I used to have a 2004 Mazda and I never knew what to use as an oil filter. I figured Mobil 1 was the most expensive so it has to be the best. I later found out that the engine in that car was a Ford engine so Motorcraft was my route from then out for around $5.50 less each time.