2002 E150 Clubwagon - blown rear in-frame steel brakeline
 

The steel brakeline which runs in the frame to the back of my van has rusted badly and yesterday, it blew out. I need to replace that line. Have any of you done this job? The gastank must be dropped to access that line but my tank is currently full. Is it possible to siphon the gas out of the tank?

Thanks.

I regularly siphon gas out of our 06's by pulling the rubber hose off the filler neck and slide a PVC tube down the hole. There's a flap but beyond that nothing to stop you. I'll pull all but 5-10 gallons out and then drop the tank for a pump change. YMMV.

If your brake line rusted away then you should be ready to find your gas tank straps/bolts/etc rusted also.

I wonder if you'd be better off cutting the brake line ahead of the bad section- and then reroute it so you can leave the tank undisturbed.

Just a suggestion.

There's no real need to drop the tank unless you want to deal with more rusted parts that will then need replaced.

When this same brake line needed replaced on my E250 we simply tied into an existing known good part of that line with a DOT-approved brake line splicing coupler, a roll of 3/16" coated steel brake line, some tube nuts and a flaring tool.

Running the new line from the rear its fished along the inside of the frame rail to a point in front of the tank where the existing line can be spliced. Naturally that point will have to be solid with no rust etc. Form the rear of the line to where it fits into the T-fitting, flare the line and attach.

Towards the front cut the existing blown line at a point that's easy to access for installing the brake line coupler. Connect the new line with the existing one, make sure the new line is firmly anchored to solid points to prevent excessive movement or chafing---anything to keep in fixed in place.

If you don't have flaring tools use stock lengths of brake line with tube nuts already installed along with female couplers if mulitple lengths are needed to span the distance. At the front where you'll use the DOT-approved splicing connector use a tube cutter for the proper length of lines and simply tie the new line into the existing one that way.

HTH

Exactly what JWA said...I have done this type of repair many times on different vehicles...I use a Double flaring tool however ..a bit of a PITA when you drop the little mandrel deal but well worth it.... Buy a roll of the better quality line which has a higher copper content making it easier to bend and more resistant to corrosion. Just fish the new line through behind the tank and give yourself a foot or so extra before you cut it . Most of the time I attach the new line to the old one with plastic ties so it is solid and in the original configuration. I re-use the old fittings most of the time after I clean them up. I would replace the entire line instead of splicing into it however....Good Luck

I agree with 50fast in running new lines in an area very nearby but accessible without dropping the fuel tank. I'm a big fan of just replacing all the brake lines when one ruptures. Brake line is cheap, and if one section has weakened and ruptured under braking pressure, another can't be far behind. Often I see brake lines that look clean and solid on their open runs between hangers are corroded and rusted at the plastic hanger clips. I'd be surprised if it cost as much as $50 in parts and fluid to do all hard lines on the entire van.

The job is complete. I dropped the tank and the hardest part about that was getting the hanger bolts loose. I used Nickel-Copper line and it was very easy to flare and bend. I routed the line exactly like the original and I replaced all of the rubber hoses ( front and rear ) while I was at it. The only gotcha was the forward end of that rear line has a bubble flare on it and it mates to a female double flare on the line coming down from the ABS unit. I don't own a bubble flare tool. It took some searching but I found a 3/16 male to 3/16 female brake line adapter (Dorman part 499009) which allowed me to mate my new male double flare to the female double flare on the forward line. Thanks for the help.