Intercooler max psi
 

Anyone know what the max "safe" psi is for the stock plastic end intercooler? Also can the stock style that you can buy with aluminum sides for around $450ish take more pressure or is it better just to jump up to an AFE or Mishimoto for twice the cost for higher psi capability?

It's not that much although mine has seen 35-40 several times. I've had a lot of folks say they're surprised I haven't blown it out. I actually think you'd be better off to go with the Banks than AFE or Mishi.

I did find some posts by guys saying they've hit the Banks one with spikes of 100psi on another forum with some compound turbo setups. I'm looking for something that will hang in the 45 psi range.


Edit:
I was hoping one like this one would work because it's about half the price of the Banks

http://www.carsteering.com/data/all_images/41-20054.jpg

Boost psi as we see on a gauge is resistance to flow. If you're trying to get more air in the motor, looks for ways to increase flow instead of boost.

Example....take a water or air hose, install a pressure gauge inline, then add a valve after the guage. Close the valve, psi goes up.... slowly crack open the valve, and psi goes down, BUT your flow goes up.

Just another one of those things that make you go....hmmmm }>

http://pbmo.files.wordpress.com/2011...-of-worms1.png

The CAC is probably the least understood and over looked system on the 6.0.
I have never actually seen pressure figures on the CAC because pressure is not useually a consideration. The CAC is a simple flow thru device no moveing parts and no sensors to watch so it is often overlooked. It simply sits there doing it's job.

Now the CAC and radiator are both oversized for the 6.0 it was actually buit for bigger engines on Bluebird busses and class 6&7 trucks. While I am talking about the surface area here not the capicity of fluid in the radiator.

Overtime the inside surfaces of the CAC get a coating of dust and oil on the tube surfaces and can build up and block the tubes restricting air flow and createing back pressure and in oil colecting in the bottom part of the CAC and you can have a system rupture.

So seeing as there gets to be build up in the intercooler itself and I have a spare would one cap and fill with a simple green solution and clean it out idunno once a year or so swap the clean one in? Or is there not enough gain or dirt in there to worry about?

If I was buying new I would go for an all aluminum one.

That will depend a lot on the trucks work environment and work conditions.
Maintenance in our fleet was determined by engine hours run not mileage, most of our trucks ran all day but seldom put more than 20 miles on the clock. Trucks that worked in high dust environments got cleaned once a year others maybe every 2 the majority were once a year. This was also compounded by how much slobber the ccv made or if the ccv had been modded.

While just filling with simple green or the like works I recomend boiling it if your in a high dust environment.

I think you guys are missing what I'm trying to find out here... I'm going to be using a Ford 6.0 intercooler in an application that will probably see up to 45 PSI on a semi-regular basis and I'm cautious of the plastic sides. I'm wondering if the stock style with all aluminum welded on sides will hold up or if I need to spend the big money on AFE, Banks, Mishi for one that will live.

The plastic tube pre turbo takes next to no pressure, the tube post turbo, through inter cooler is probably good to 30 psi, maybe a bit more. The pre turbo is only atmospheric air being sucked by the turbo through the air filter, I don't know what negative pressure, maybe 5 - 10 psi. Better to change this out with solid tubes for larger boost applications. Definitely all aluminum tubes and radiator is the way to go. Mishimoto should be able to confirm their max psi rating. I have not seen one in person or the banks so can't speak to quality. I would like to do mishimoto one say, solid intake side tube and new boots one day. Probably do mishimoto but I am not planning bigger boost.

I have seen a couple of factory CACs fail. Both spit out the rubber o-ring between the body and the plastic end tanks. I would consider a one piece unit a good upgrade if you plan on upping the boost a bit. I have no experience with the aftermarket ones to recommend anything specific. An alternate plan might be to set aside the $$ for the one piece and see how the factory unit holds up.

Since you are planning a non stock application Fords numbers would be meaningless anyway like was mentioned air flow is more a factor than pressure.

The Ford 6.0 cooler will handle the flow fine, mostly worried about pressure. Then again my boost might not end up being as high as I think because I did do a little porting of the head, manifold, and turbo housing...