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-   1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum170/)
-   -   Bolt for belt tensioner is stripped! (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1152638-bolt-for-belt-tensioner-is-stripped.html)

jiveturkey692000 04-03-2012 12:40 PM

Bolt for belt tensioner is stripped!
 
I finally got a chance to get my crooked belt tensioner changed but after alot pulling on the ole ratchet the insides of the head of the bolt stripped out. Im thinking my only option is to get in there with a grinder and grind the head of the bolt off, slide the tensioner out and then turn the stud out with vise grips? Any advice is would be greatly appreciated. I slid whats left of the belt back on cause I need the truck. I cant stand the belt chirp any longer and the belt will probably let loose soon:-arrgh

Any tips, tricks, advice?

DIYMechanic 04-03-2012 01:55 PM

A couple things I can think of that you could try would be to use one of those broken bolt extractor sockets that have the teeth in them. Another would be to grind a couple flats onto the head and use a vise grip, wrench or crescent wrench. Other than that, I am guessing you're right, it is to grind the head off and deal with the stud after the fact.

I don't know if you would have the room or not, but welding a nut onto the stud is always a good solution too if you have the room.

madpogue 04-03-2012 03:14 PM

Conventional "bolt-out" bolt extractor would work on a rounded head of a hex bolt. This one's a torx "hole" that's stripped/rounded. There are some new extractors that don't require as deep a drilling - something like Amazon.com: Alden 8530P Grabit Damaged Screw Remover 3 Piece Kit: Home Improvement . Might even work in a situation like this without any drilling.

Worst case, replace the whole bracket.

jiveturkey692000 04-04-2012 01:41 AM

Well welding a nut on wouldnt be impossible. My try that. I dont think I could drill it. I had my ratchet on there and then a 1in wrench over the handle. Not the smartest way but bolt is really in there. Not messin with it till the weekend now cause I need the truck. Thanks for the advice.

DIYMechanic 04-04-2012 06:12 AM

I guess I wasn't thinking that it was the mushroom headed bolt that we were talking about. I can see how a broken bolt extractor wouldn't work so well in that case.

A couple of tips for getting that out, if you weld a nut over it use the biggest nut you can and weld it through the hole inside the nut (like at least a 1/2" nut if you can). Also when you're welding it in there concentrate most of the heat into the bolt by pointing the welder more into the bolt than into the nut. The nut will get plenty hot enough since it is the smaller piece of material.

Another tip that helps break free a stuck fastener a lot of times it to shock it good with a couple sharp hammer blows. This helps to break the bolt loose and free things up.

Or you could always remove the whole bracket and get it out where you can work on it. I would have to look for sure, but I don't think the bolt in question goes into the block. I am thinking it just threads into that aluminum bracket (which is likely why it is so frozen into place!).

madpogue 04-04-2012 07:46 AM

^^^^^ Bracket is aluminum, IIRC. Dissimilar metals.

Talyn 04-04-2012 08:00 AM

My vote is to remove the bracket.

I had to do this on my f-150.

The tensioner bolt broke off, the spring was all that was holding it on for a 2 hour trip.


Pull the bracket, it will take you less time and you can work on it easier.

madpogue 04-04-2012 01:15 PM

Bonus - with the bracket off, the option of doing the bracket mods per the TSB and upgrading to the two-pulley SD tensioner will also be much easier.

jiveturkey692000 04-07-2012 10:50 AM

Thanks for the tips guys. First chance I get I gotta jump in there. If I had a welder I probably would have done it by now. I just got a new job so its more important that I fix it now with the drive. I actually thought the bolt went into the block and not the bracket just because of how it looks to me. If welding the nut on doesnt work then its good to know it might come off with the bracket
That will be much easier to work on.

bremen242 09-15-2012 09:26 PM


Originally Posted by madpogue (Post 11666461)
Bonus - with the bracket off, the option of doing the bracket mods per the TSB and upgrading to the two-pulley SD tensioner will also be much easier.

Curious.

My belt tensioner is crooked as well. I will have to replace it as it is causing the belt on my alternator to jump a groove.

What is that two-pulley tensioner you speak of?

ReBilld 09-15-2012 09:39 PM


Originally Posted by bremen242 (Post 12275151)
Curious.

My belt tensioner is crooked as well. I will have to replace it as it is causing the belt on my alternator to jump a groove.

What is that two-pulley tensioner you speak of?

Its the dual pulley one on the super duties. Her's one on ebay...ford f250 f350 7.3 diesel super duty serpentine belt tensioner and idler 99 03 | eBay

BuckHammer 09-15-2012 09:42 PM

I'm in on this one because this seems like something that would happen to me! Lol.

oldbird1965 09-15-2012 10:47 PM

Easy to do, set the alternator aside, pull the bracet and follow this.

bremen242 09-15-2012 10:49 PM


Originally Posted by oldbird1965 (Post 12275447)
Easy to do, set the alternator aside, pull the bracet and follow this.

Cool. Thank you for the document.

oldbird1965 09-15-2012 11:43 PM

Your welcome, since I've done the double pulley mod my belt has been wearing even.


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