My moderate build thread.
 

Hey guys. I will be starting a very basic build in the near future. Thought I would give you guys a shout out for some ideas or suggestions. I plan on putting a new muffler on this bad boy get as much heat out and away as possible. I will be getting a professional under coating because of the salty winters up here in wny, I have to get this on before winter. Maybe a new air filtration system but I'm not sure if I want to. If I do I want to have one that filters out as much contaminants as possible. My shocks are still original so I want to replace which shouldn't be to hard to do, I plan on putting some type of on board monitor/gauge. For sale of space on the dash I'll more than likely get a digital one. I'm keeping stock because I have no reason to mess with this thing and with my luck if I did it would kill it faster than setting it on fire with thermite. Lol. Any one else do this type of build and keep the truck stock?

I have an 02 7.3. my buddy is selling his bully dog tuner and I thought I may be able to pick it up for cheap. It should cover all the important things, trans temp, oil temp, boost, etc. I don't plan on using its runner function. Also the truck is a cc short bed lariat with 143,000 some odd miles on it.

A build thread, man I love following threads like these.priority number 1 make sure she's 100% then go with some gauges. After that you can improve stock performance by adding a nice filter such as mentioned on post #2 Ford AIS, or a 6637, the stock exhaust is more than adequate for a stock or even a moderately build. You can replace the stock up pipes in favor of some bellow up pipes, you can send your injectors to get rebuild and........ You see where I'm getting at, even the "smallest" builds turn into a spending frenzy. Or as Tugly will surely post a BUCK$ZOOKA!!!!!
GOOD LUCK.

In regards to the 6637 filter how does it filter in comparison to the ais sever duty filter system. How do you know if the filter is plugged or needs to be cleaned. I like how simple it is to install I like the whistling sound it adds. But I'm a little concerned about is it drawing in all that hot air in the engine versus the colder air from a filter system is as the ais system.

Just as good as the AIS and don't worry about the hot air once your moving you won't notice a difference.

Welcome to the bretheren and congrats on your build thread!!


first I would do the following before starting any mods or any performance enhancing things.

1: make sure your truck is 100%
2: remove the stock airbox and replace with the Ford AIS intake OR the 6637 filter mod
3: get the proper gauges set up, trans 2 pyros (one for driver side and one for passenger side) and fuel pressure at the minimum Boost is another good one also
4: load the Buck$Zooka and your Buck$Armoury and maybe even a few Buck$Pistols
5: attempt to enjoy the truck and continue your build thread...

Good advice so far!

For a single gauge, consider the Aeroforce Scangauge. It will monitor anything the PCM reads and you can add EGT and Fuel Pressure (the most important things to monitor IMHO). I don't think dual pyros are needed... The kind of issues you'd discover with that are rare are can generally be identified by other means. This gauge also does the Buzz Test and Cylinder Contribution Test. ;)

The stock muffler won't affect performance or EGT enough to notice on a stock truck, but deleting the muffler with an equal (3.5") size pipe or bigger does make it sound good without being too loud.

Your stock up-pipes will leak eventually. I seldom see these trucks anymore that don't have leaky, stock up-pipes. This and boost leaks are the most common cause of loss of power and MPG. I use Dorman up-pipes and ceramic coat them (and exhaust housing on turbo as well as exhaust manifolds). You can get these well under $200. They use bellows instead of the donut/slip joint design that wears the pipes down until they leak.

The AIS is probably the best filtration you can get for your money at ~$200. But filters are $60 each. The 6637 is much cheaper with $30 filters that last just as long (I get 50k miles out of mine most of the time).

The most common boost leak I see is at the intake plenums on heads. The plenums are sheet metal and ford used cheesy worm clamps here instead of t-bolt clamps so we wouldn't crush/deform the plenums by over tightening the clamps. I use Riffraff plenum inserts and upgrade the clamps here. Honestly, stock CAC boots are totally fine for a stock truck if they are in good shape. Take them all off and wash/soak them in hot, soapy water to remove oil. Final-clean them and the pipes, etc with brake clean and a clean rag and install while slightly damp w/brake cleaner. When finished, build a cheap boost leak detector (less $$ than a Starbucks) and make sure you have no leaks.

Flush your cooling system thoroughly and either replace it with standard 'green' coolant and the required SCA or use an ELC like CAT, Rotella of similar. I prefer the latter because ya don't have to monitor/add SCA's and the ELC's have up to a 500k mile service life (no 100k flush and replace) not to mention the fallout/sludge issues from SCA's.

Since it sounds like you are in a cold climate, if go ahead and do GP's and either do the $0.50 mod or just get Dorman VC gaskets (they have integrated UVCH's). Check torque on injector hold downs and rocker arms while you're in there.

On the PM subject, I strongly recommend regularly checking brakes for sticking slide pins, etc. I like Bosch life tin warranty rotors because they have a coating that resists corrosion - and because ya only have to buy rotors one more time ever for your truck! I also use EBC brake pads because they STOP your truck waaaay better than anything you can buy over the counter.

Buy the 'parts cabinet' from www.dieselorings.com and at least replace the o-rings on the fuel bowl drain valve - if ya don't just rebuild the whole fuel bowl.

Check your EBP sensor tube for rust/leaks. Either build your own using SS if you can or ceramic coat the new one to mitigate the problem.

Lube the axle bearings on front hubs and service the locking hubs.

Make sure the dipstick flange on oil pan is tight.

You don't need a buckzooka for what it sounds like you are trying to accomplish.

I forgot the 'in-tank mods'!!

Delete the mixing chambers, screens and umbrella inside the tank and replace with a compression union and short piece of tubing that reaches the very bottom of tank. I put a 90* bend on end of tubing so I can sit it directly on tank bottom. (I have lots of sort pieces of alum tubing - let me know and I'll send you what ya need for the price of the stamp!). You'll replace the in-tank filter with an in-line 'strainer' like the WIX 33972 that'll go just before the pump. Don't try to over engineer this with 'added filtration' - 50 microns is as fine as you want to go pre-pump. You'll cut the flexible hose off fuel line just before the pump and install the WIX 33972 using 5/16" 30R9 (fuel injection hose) and fuel injection hose clamps.

Also, reach in the tank and lop off the vent tube as close to the top of tank as possible using PVC cutters. This will low you to fill the tank to the TOP without beginning to burp gallons short of 'full'.

Might as we'll add pics...

WIX 33972

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5e998b210b.jpg

This is how I do the pick-up mod. The return hose is cut in the bend so it can be pointed 180* away from pick-up.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...9885ee12b8.jpg

Thanks for the good info skyski. The only issue I have is that I am by no means a mechanic. So doing a lot of this is well kind of risky for me to undertake. I would hate to do damage to my truck because in all likelihood I would be unable to replace it if I messed it up. I'm planning on keeping it stock because I see no reason to do so other than some minor things to help it out. I do appreciate all the awesome ideas you gave me, so maybe if I could find some way of doing this with out going to diesel shop I may do some of these. Thanks.

The in tank mods will benefit your truck. The factory fuel system is known to cause air infiltration into your fuel supply which, if it gets bad enough, can wreak havoc with your injectors.

I always tell people it's a big diesel engine - not a Swiss watch. The things I suggested require minimal tools and just basic mechanical knowledge. There are plenty of write-ups you can study on each of these mods before you decide to attempt them. The up-pipes require removing the turbo - this takes me about 20mins, but can be a pita (actually pain in the babies butt...). Installing the new ones is much easier with a helper.

The tank mods require dropping the tank or removing the bed. I torch bed bolts from underneath except for the one over the tank - it has to be cut/ground from the top. New bolts are about $50... 4 guys can lift bed, but I usually use the tractor and occasional engine hoist to do it by myself.

I've already had the bed off the truck once to have some body work done on it so I go about doing the fuel tank pick up mod it should come off pretty easy because bolts are brand new. At some point I'll slowly do some of those other things to the truck. I should have good seals on intake and turbo because I had thee engine lifted and trans unbolted to have my oil pan replaced at a diesel shop so I would think they secured it properly, the tech also gave it a good test drive afterwards to make sure it ran right. I realize the truck isn't some Swiss watch of a thing but I really don't know my way around engine stuff. So I'll stick to juat the easy stuff for now. I have a cousin that is going to school to be diesel mechanic so maybe down the road he can give me a hand doing some of these jobs. Thank guys.

That is one hack job/stupid way to do an oil pan...

Not a good indication that shop does quality work!!!!

I'm not sure why they didnt lift the cab but hey if something does go wrong with the turbo, trans or engine due to this that's on them. I don't abuse the truck so if something like that where to happen it would probably be from that. The shop seems to be pretty decent but time will tell. I'll have to look around next time they were one of the only diesel shops I was aware of in my area.

You have to flip the engine upside down and use special RTV to reliably seal a 7.3 oil pan.

I can pull an engine in 2hrs if I try hard. It just kills me to see people go to all the trouble and aggravation trying to do this job in the vehicle when the failure rate (leaking pan to engine seal) is so high.

When I have an engine out, I clean it and the engine bay and paint them. ;)


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...8b4b24b343.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...20633822da.jpg

I wish I could have had you do this to mine. That engine looks great in red. Well maybe sometime in the future when I could afford to do do build I'll do this.

Air filter 6637
 

I'm thinking of ditching my stock air filter box for the Donaldson 6637 filter with pre filter from Riff Raff. I noticed that once it's installed there isn't any place to reattach the filter under and the air temp sensor. I'd like to keep them so I can monitor the filter. How would I go about hooking them back up? I've also heard that this filter has some clearance issues is this true I don't want to damage the filter. Thanks guys.

I have the regular white version of this filter, and I have noticed it has got a flat spot in the metal mesh where the hood hits it a little, but no real damage per se. The air temp sensor I just tie wrapped up and out of the way, it still functions properly as far as I know. Some people have relocated the filter minder to either the end of the filter itself (drilled a small hole in the plastic cap) or mounted it in the snorkel itself. For me, I just change it every year and so far have had no problems.

One further thing I will say is I would order two filters. You will need one eventually and the shipping isn't really affected much by adding the second one, it will save you some money in the long run.

What he said!!! ^^^

I remove the stock air box and cut away everything that isn't battery tray. I've got to do this today, maybe I can remember to take pics...

I get up to 50k miles out of a 6637. No filter minder required.

I would do this just to install the up pipes:-arrgh

Hey I just replaced my fuel filter and did a bowl drain and I noticed that the fuel separator just drains out on the engine have any you guys hooked up a drain line to it so it can emptied into a container. If so where is the line dumping out to?

Look under the fuel bowl and you will see a metal tube,put a clear piece of tubing on there and then in a container and drain away

thanks l will have to hook a line up then so I don't cover my engine in fuel.

Or just don't drain the bowl. You can change the filter without ever touching the bowl drain and without dumping diesel fuel into the valley.

I drained the fuel water separator bowl because I've had the light come on twice so I figured I'd drain out what water there might be. Unless that wasn't the fuel water separator and it just drains fuel. Would there be another place the separator could be? I'm relatively new to the diesel ownership but I have a grasp on how they run and what I need to do for maintenance. Thanks.

Always drain your fuel bowl. ESPECIALLY when changing the filter!!!

It's good practice to drain and inspect contents of filter bowl at oil changes. During fuel filter changes, it is critical (IMHO) to clean the gunk out of the bottom of the filter housing. I do this using brake cleaner and compressed air.

Here, you can see the line and short hose that connect to the drain valve - preventing fuel from going in the valley.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...5148b93cb9.jpg

This is where that line discharges near the passenger side of the water pump. I always add a piece of hose to this that is long enough to reach a bottle on the ground. Then, I don't make a mess and I can easily collect the contents for inspection. If you see bits of filter media for example - you probably wanna open it up for a look. ;)

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...87704b1f4f.jpg

Thanks for the pictures on the hose for the filter housing. The fuel in the bowl when I changed looked good I didn't see any gunk in there either. I drained for approximately a couple seconds which should be plenty of time to drain, then I turned power on to refill the bowl.

Also does anyone know of the site to replace my emblems ( F350 lariat and the power stroke V8 diesel) I'm missing on of power stroke emblems on the passenger side.

Ah this may be a dumb question but not to long ago I changed out my fuel filter and drained the fuel bowl because the wif light had come on a couple times before but would turn off when I shut it down and turn it back on.( this happed a couple of time maybe three times) After I changed out filter and drained fuel bowl it didn't come on until now but it went away once I turned it off and back on. Is there a separate water fuel separator somewhere else and I just missed it? Thanks guys.

Just one water in fuel sensor and it is in the fuel bowl.

I always add a section of tubing to the fuel bowl drain that is long enough to reach a bottle on the ground. That way, I can collect and inspect the contents of the fuel bowl.

If the light is coming on and there is no water present, the sensor is malfunctioning. I've see filter housings with a couple inches of sediment in the bottom (covering the heater/sensor) - that could certainly cause issues...

Many people unplug the heater/sensor since a shorted out heater kills the PCM fuse. I recommend draining the fuel bowl at least at every oil change for good measure.

Be sure to cycle the key on for 30-40 secs 2-3 times before starting the truck to purge the air out of filter. :-drink

Hey my buddy of mine has a few extra fuel filters left over from when he owned a 2006 6.0 he now has the 6.7 and I was wondering if I could use the filters from the 6.0 in my 7.3. he has no use for them so he said I could have them if they work for my truck. I have a feeling that they simply don't due to the engines being different but maybe I'll get lucky and they will fit and work fine. Anyone from Ford on here have an idea if this will work? Thank guys

Nope. :-X15

Darn, thanks man. I've got my oil change this weekend so I was going to swap out the fuel filter and rotate my tires at the same time. Now I need to track down a Ford motor sports filter.

Hey I've been mulling over the idea of doing an engine bay clean out so I can see if there are any future leaked of any type and I've come across a bunch of suggestions to clean the ebvp sensor and tube will help increase my mileage. I'm currently getting 13.7 according to my trucks monitoring system. I'm interested in doing the simple fixes to help get better mileage but I don't want to do anything that would be bad for the truck. It's my daily driver and work truck so I don't want something to go wrong. What do you guys think? Thanks.

If you haven't cleaned it out for a while, or if ever, it is definitely worth doing. Pretty simple, maybe 20 min job, some carb clean and some weed whacker line, a couple of wrenches, done!

I'll have to look up a video and do this. I doubt it has ever been done before with the lack of maintenance done by the previous owner. I've put alot of money into the beast since owning it. Will doing this clean out increase performance in throttle response, turbo spool or fuel mileage?

As part of my moderate build here I'm really just looking to build a really good work truck. I a carpenter/construction by trade so on and off I haul material and tow a dump trailer. What would be good to get my truck "truck in" as a work truck. Thanks guys as all ways your responses are always appreciated.