If I remmeber right the idm doesn't do anything until the rpms register.

So the key issue is definitely that the tach doesn't show any rpms when cranking.

I know it sounds crazy, but when I had an issue like this, I had a buddy wave a wrench in front of the cps while it was connected but not mounted. You can see the tach move a smidge if they really wave it. Helped save some time when I had like three different CPSs to sort between.

Sorry I had to read a couple times to understand...SO the CPS will 'pick up' and 'read' if metal is passed in front of it?...like waving a wrench back and forth in front and close to the CPS...so that would prove the CPS and circuit (I think?)...I just got back from the dentist after working all day and I'm drained and Novocained at the moment...After I eat (and chew up the inside of my cheek) I will look for my 2nd or 5th wind of the day and put some EXTRA GLUE on my toupee' and dig in under the battery tray and brain storm a little more. I really should take advantage of the warm weather...Thanks for the IDM tidbit!...

Yes, the cps is really just a hall effect sensor which uses magnets more or less. The cps counts the teeth on a gear on the crankshaft and thats where it gets the rpms.

might help out some

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/at...9&d=1250124752

Here's a quick dumb question...The wires to the IPR...they are both the same?... Not connected but it doesn't matter which wire is which...I can't reverse them? right?

I see a an ICP code now...LOW or out of range...That may have thrown when I tried starting while unplugged?
I thought an ICP would make a rough run and not a no start?

I checked the oil in the HPOP...it is 6.5" from the top...(took out the 3/16 Allen/Hex plug and stuck with metal dowel). Can a LPOP drop dead in an instant?
It won't crank more than 120-130 RPM so I plugged in the heater.
I am getting more and more discouraged

Refill hpop resivour and see if it will fire

I refilled it...about 5 or so Turkey basters...and did not start but did get a P1316 Code for the IDM...the fuses under the hood are still good...so is my IDM bad? or....another WAG to try? I don't know where to find a 'test' IDM

Anyone close? Pop known stuff on it.

I don't know anyone anymore...my Ex chased them all away...
I found one online for about $560...sheesh...I should atleast bring it to work and see if anyone can hear water in it...Texas isn't too far is it?....J/K...I'm really not connected as I use to be

I think I know where my spare PCM and IDM are at, can send.

Will not be back till mid January.

That's REALLY kind man...I appreciate your trust but I'll try to find another way...someone closer or listen for the water inside...I do thank you just the same...very kind!

I saw an IPR comment.

You pulled the harness from the fuel bowl and tested the IPR wires?

Also if the plug is bad, its the same as an injector harness plug.

Diesel fuel will eat the rubber inside that IPR plug and can cause it to short. I ended up fixing mine long time ago with some shrink tubing and RTV. But the only wire left on my fuel bowl harness is the IPR, the rest were stripped off.

I duno if the LPOP can supply the hpop res if the HPOP fast enough bypass is stuck open. And the IPR is what regulates a lot of that.

That's more of a joey question.

Okay. Joey says LPOP can provide more oil than HPOP can ever use, so. Weird theories like that are out.

There used to be a no start flow chart.

Crap, I don't have it. I know I "had" it.