^^^This^^^

I assume the infatuation comes from diesel drag trucks that do smoke a lot. Just remember that drag trucks have drastically lowered compression and huge turbos and are made to perform at high rpm WOT conditions only. They are basically worthless on the street under mixed driving conditions. If you try to make that kind of smoke from your truck with stock compression and a small turbo you will melt the pistons. You are fuel limited, so smoke is just wasted potential power. The heavy smoke does not mean that your monster turbo has yet to fully spool and fill decompressed cylinders as you reach WOT, it means your turbo is way too small and/or your truck is grossly out of tune. Like I said, you will melt pistons, blow head gaskets and look like a fool doing it.

How would I go about getting rid of the ATS air box? I'm still super new to this so I'm just trying to go step by step. And what would you recommend putting on there once I do end up getting it off

i can't say about the air box .. but you can do injectors and valve cover gaskets pretty easy .. about the most difficultly you'll have is the rear most bolt passenger side on the valve cover .. not tough to do ..

do use the rubber kindof valve cover gaskets not the cork or paper kind .. so you can take them off in the future and reuse them ..

to get the injectors off just take off the pinch anti vibration clamps the hold the lines together in sets of 4 and 2 .. then they will be loose enough to get off the injectors .. don't take them loose at the pump .. remove and replace the copper washer under the injector ..

replace them with only with injectors from a reputable re builder not el cheepo injectors .. also do replace the return fuel lines and o-rings while doin' em .. i believe macrobb - suggests using lithium wheel bearing grease that seems like the best advice on sealing up o-rings .. just grease em' up and seat them well ..

replace the fuel filter while your at it as it will have to be removed to get to the valve cover gaskets anyway .. do make sure you tighten the fuel lines well .. not strip them but make sure of no leaks ..

welcome to the forum .. we all getta kick outa ripping on folks who are all about the smoke but that aside we're happy to help and good luck with the new truck :-X22

There are three different models of ATS turbo kits for the IDI. All three use an aluminum box with a flat filter in it. Unbolt it from the intake manifold, and what is left is the rubber boot connecting the box to the inlet side of the turbo compressor housing. You can buy or make a rigid tube routed to someplace in your engine bay where you can mount a high flowing quality air filter. Here are a couple examples:

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

Here is a ATS 093 turbo with the air box off to show the turbo inlet:
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...act=mrc&uact=8

R&D sells one specifically for the 093 kit:
Factory Turbo/ 093 Air Intake Kit

I suspect you may have one of the older two kits and may have to make your own. But these should give you an idea of what needs to happen. You need to get rid of the restrictive box filter and have good air flow in and out of your turbo. If it says ATS on it, it has a 3" exhaust down pipe which is plenty on the exhaust side as long as the rest of your exhaust is 3" or better and free flowing (straight pipe, glass pack or high flow muffler).

Problems with pictures... let's try as direct attachments hosted on FTE:


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...6b7d3ced6.jpeg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...a91208ae5.jpeg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...26362d4f0.jpeg

I'm running 9.5*" is this a better way to time . justin said 5.5 or 6

Really depends on your set up. NA specification is ~8.5*, the settings down around 6* that Justin uses work better with bigger turbos and more fuel. Timing will also affect where in the rpm band you get your best power. Knowing the number is good for reference, but ultimately you need to set it where it feels best. I'm not sure where that is on a factory turbo engine but 9.5* is well within the normal range.

I believe it's entirely based on cylinder air temp and fuel temp to determine how much timing you can run. Na will have cooler intake temps than a non itntercoold turbo obviously. I run a very efficient water intercooler setup. I actually run 10 degree lower post intercooler temps than I have pre turbo air inlet. I have 3 temp gauges on my intake pipes. My water intercooler keeps intake temps around 110 to 120f. I am actually installing a cowl hood too help vent the bay because even with my custom made true cold air intake that pulls from below the radiator core still sees 130f intake temps cruising. I think all the air entering the engine bay from radiator has nowhere to go and goes straight down plus ic pipe are seeing some heat soak. I gained 1mpg running my timing to 9.5 degrees.

I can floor it at 45 mph and lug the engine with bull moose and misters pull all the way to 75mph with only 7.5 psi form turbo and egts will only hit 1150