Excellent point. I can't Dyno it w/o knowing the cam timing. If I knew how retarded tha cam is I could, but knowing that the cam and timing set are factory without knowing the specs will give false data.

Let's put it another way, the 351M I bought yesterday is said to be really, REALLY strong and I suspect the biggest part is the new cam and timing set.

What is considered an aftermarket timing "kit"?

Anything but a Ford direct replacement would be "aftermarket". Ford would put it back as they built it, probably due to having to ensure they meet emissions standards, but other brands will not include the retarded timing.

I installed a new exhaust today... well, i finished this morning.

Walker 22822 school bus muffler & a 3" mandrel bent stainless Magnaflow tailpipe.
I welded flanges directly to the muffler inlets.
Made a custom muffler clamp hanger at the rear.

Under $150 all together. :)

The regular replacement muffler is $225, $35 for the tail pipe, $25 for the band hanger, plus clamps... my cost.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6306572231/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6306572231/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr
The dent is where it rolled off the bench :o
I didn't see it going with the welding helmet on.
Don't try and stop it by grabbing the flange you just welded. :-X09

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6306580073/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6306580073/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6306620909/http://www.flickr.com/photos/24183730@N03/6306620909/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/24183730@N03/, on Flickr

It's nice and throaty without being loud and obnoxious.

FINALLY finished up the remote filter install for the 460 into the 2wd F150. If you're still doing a remote mount with your new truck situation I can post a pic or two if you want. Otherwise I'll wait and post it in detail in my build thread once I make more progress worth updating.

jim, where did you get that muffler? i might have to use a setup like that on my 84. i like how it sounds with the strait pipe, but in the end, a strait pipe just doesnt suit my needs. and i think a pair of big ol bus mufflers in a true dual set up with all 3 inch pipe and stans headers will still allow decent flow, and get things at a manageable decibel for practical things, such as hunting.

I vote for one now, then more in your build thread. My reason is that I don't know when you'll get "there" on the build thread, but I may need it sooner. Thanks in advance!

I'll have to pull up the spec. on a stock 1971 cam. I'm to understand that the timing wasn't retarded at all untill later. say like 74 or so. Insofaras the lift or duration or angle I've not a clue. Does anyone have an Idea where I can look for the pertinet data on the cam ford put in the engine in 71? I'll have to be educated on what info is needed. I did download a software model, but I became rapidly lost in it and really didn't have the proper input. ie, I would need help(-:

LD - I don't know what info I have on cams, but I'll look to see. That Ford Engine Book we looked at might tell, but I'll be out and about tomorrow. Maybe Friday?

Teaser:


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...o/702a21ac.jpg




Write up: Remote oil filter install

Cool! I looked at the other thread. Well done and sorry I doubted you.

Thanks!

No worries, but you're right, who knows when the next time I can update on my poor body progress will be.

bryan, thats a badass set up. a friend of mine did somethin similar on his chebby, and made it have two filters that were all the way under the cab. now i just need to figure out how to make the S/S lines work on my P/S pump...

460/5,
I bought all the parts on Amazon, but Summit has them on their Ebay store as well.

I doubt you could get two of them under there, unless you had no side tank or went with side by side ovals on edge.
That one's 8 1/2" diameter and 43" length pretty much fills the space between frame rail and driveshaft.

I looked through the Walker specs for a fully welded muffler that had the same C-C distance as my exhaust flange and a 3" outlet that would line up with the 15003 stainless tail pipe I got on sale for 65% off.
Walker Muffler Styles
http://www.walkerheavyduty.com/catal...D_Mufflers.pdf
(It's for an '80-'83 International school bus with a 455 gas V-8)

At first I wanted a 10" dia. stainless R/V muffler, (21308) but that was NLA, so after I looked at stainless alternatives from Magnaflow, Bear River, etc.
I just decided they were all too loud and I went with the 22822.
It's less than 1/2 the price of the stock replacement 45115, which has a heat shield that tears and rolled seams that rot in just a couple of years of New England winters.

The flanges and clamp hanger were easy enough to MIG on the bench once I positioned everything under the truck using a floor jack and stands, and tacked into place.
I used high temp aluminum paint on the flanges and cold galvanizing on the hanger.
The tailpipe uses a piece of 3/8" stainless rod bent around the back side into the stock rubber mount.

well, with the setup i want, the exhaust will actually be outside of the frame, and then i can stuff the muffler up under the bed sides, and then kick em back to come out i front of the rear tires, or i can make em a part of a set of bull-holler stacks.

i like the 22381 in/out same end muffler. its oval, so it would fit up under the bed sides, and would put the stacks in the perfect place to come through the bed behind the cab. it also offers a huge tubin diameter, and at 25 inches in shell length, its just small enough to give me just the right amount of rumble... i hope...